I m not familiar with that material but two tips that will save time and frustration. First check out the stackable corner joints available online- they allow you to join the corners while anchoring into the ground or anchoring multiple layers together. Also, if you are going to use row covers or netting get some rebar cut into three foot lengths. Pound about a foot into the ground on sides of your bed. Get pvc pipe cut into pieces large enough to accomodate the width of your bed plus the rebar sides (about seven to eight feet for a four foot wide bed) Then bend the pvc over the rebar on both sides to form the hoops to hold row covers or netting. I m sure your skill level is higher than mine but these are just two easy tips that even an old lady can do with a screwdriver and hammer:) Good luck.

Wow, carolinabluesky, I love the idea of incorporating the framework for row cover!!! I'm putting in a raised bed this spring for some veggies. That is an idea I'll definitely be incorporating!!

imajad2u, I looked at hardiplank siding for my home when it was under construction a couple of years ago. Just from the specs it looks like it would work well. My plans are to use just regular landscape timbers like they sell at HD, Lowes and the local hardware. I'm going to get the big spikes and just nail them together. Post up some pics when you are done, I'd love to see!!

I think you'll find that the landscape timbers work really well because the space between them, even when nailed together is sufficient for some drainage. The hardiplank is tough stuff. Got to use drills and screws on that stuff. You also might find that connecting the timbers with straight braces and screws a lot easier than nailing them together. Easier to take apart also if you want to enlarge or reconfigure the shape of your beds.

Landscape timbers are treated, though, right? We used the widest aluminum flashing we could find (about 18") when we built some beds about 5 years back and it's held up really well. I wanted to grow edibles, and it was in a tight space, which is why i didn't do cinder block or something like that. We rolled the top edge for stability and riveted the lengths together once we'd wrapped it around the area for the bed. We buried about 4" for stability as well. We used cheap metal drainage pipe pounded in the ground along with rebar in certain points, to hold up the sides (alternating inside and out, about every 2-3'). The reason i wanted the pipe was for exactly what carolina posted- to be able to support hoops. I haven't really used it that way, since i found laying the reemay on top worked just as well, though i have put upright stakes for tomatoes in them. Hardiplank siding is a great idea and perhaps if and when we need to redo the sides we'll use that. The only thing i don't like about the metal is the light glaring off of it sometimes. It looks a bit odd, but very clean and you get used to it.