Nice!

Do you have a thermometer in there?

Josh

Do you provide lights in the greenhouse You said it is unheated. I almost done builsing a home made greenhouse. One side of the green house is my house and the other sides has wooden frame and covered by a special plastic called sun selecter which holds 80% of the heat from the sun for 8 hours and also insect repellant and rodents can not build a nest i the material it is designed for that. I am sure it gets some heat from the house. Should I put growing lights inside and what about a ceramic heater when there is no sun.

Hi

I heat with compact florescent lights set in ceramic fixtures. A 100 watt florescent bulb puts out the equivalent light of 4 100 watt incandescent bulbs. It also puts out 100 watts of HEAT. 15 watts of that heat is in the visible light spectrum that your plants need and love. Don't waste electric on heat. Make light instead. Keeping the roots warm with Christmas lights around or under the pots does a lot in disease resistance and speeds up growth. Be careful not to over heat the roots. I aim for about 85-90 degrees. Good luck. I am in the beginning of my lean-2 green house. Use the least expensive Florescent bulb ceramic fixture /watt electric. I find the big box 24 packs of 23 watts about the best. It pays to shop for sales when buying large quantities. See my seed grown Meiwa kumquat after 10 months from planting in this heating system.

Arkberry, you may experience WLD in your setup depending on how much light you receive and the root temperature of your trees. If you get medium to high sunlight and the roots are cold (below 54f) leaves will drop. If your greenhouse is cold I would recommend a low light area to prevent WLD. Especially with early morning sun in the winter you need to be careful, the roots are cold from the previous night and cannot process sunlight until they warm. It takes the soil much much longer to warm then the air in the greenhouse.

Its also probably not necessary to be fertilizing so often in the winter. you could probably get away with once a month at 1/3 strength. I have not fertilized my trees since the end of October. I have much larger containers but the point it they need much less, also the fertilizer can encourage root rot because the trees are really going dormant and the fertilizer sits in cold damp conditions in the container.

A very good article on WLD and other container problems. http://www.plantfolks.com/files/Planting_container_citrus_PDF.pdf. I also use a larger container that seals the plant pot so I can use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the extra water from the tree after watering so as to further protect against root rot problem describe in this article.

Arkberry, My 'heating by Lights' heating system has been tested and works well. I am growing sweet pepper inside it. The inside temperature run at about 30 deg above the surounding temperature. My kumquat and citrus trees are on its roof where the temperature is 30 degrees above the surrounding air temperature. The root base and pot is insulated from the above air and held at the elevated temperature of the grow box. The tree's leaf area is also lighted and inclosed. My outdoors temperatures run 25 deg. cooler than yours in winter so the system should work well for you. Next fall I will be installing this heating grow box in my green house were I will be growing my starts. The 4 by 4 by 2 will be accompanied by a 16 ft wide by 3 ft tall by 1 ft deep box mounted to the wall of my house. Peppers and eggplant inside under cop. floresents and my potted citrus trees will be on top to keep the roots warm. I will run this from sun set to sun rise so that the root will be warm when the sun rises. I am also setting peppers at this time. click on the pic to open my Photobucket pics

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