Oh boy. Time to call your ag agent. In Florida, I believe the infection rate for ACP carrying HLB is 100%. This means your tree most certainly will be infected, and will eventually die (as well as become a vector for further transmission). I would definitely follow the advice of your ag agent for immediate spraying, and a 12 mo ago application of Bayer means it is all gone, now :-( In your area, every 4 to 6 mos. I believe is the recommended application rate, but again, your ag agent can give you better and more accurate advice. So sorry to hear that.

Patty S.

When a post from Patty starts with "Oh boy" you know it's serious. Hahaha

This is the reply I got from my extension office:

"The first course of action is to spray the tree to control any psyllids, especially juveniles that have hatched from any eggs deposited on the foliage (psyllids are attracted to new growth and will be found on newly opened leaves). The most effective products for controlling psyllids are meant for commercial growers and most require a license. You can use an horticultural oil such as Saf-T-Side (ensure complete coverage especially new growth using a pump spray can) and consider drenching the soil with Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control which lists Asian citrus psyllids as one of the insects controlled. Follow label instructions and note you can only use the product once a year. Make sure to fertilize and irrigate the tree on a regular basis (but avoid excessive applications of fertilizer nitrogen to key lime). If during the succeeding weeks you believe the tree is developing symptoms that suggest citrus greening (http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ch200 - meant for growers but it illustrates the symptoms to look for), there is a simple test you can perform at home that will indicate that the tree is probably infected (but it is not a definitive test, see: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs375 ). You can extend fruit production from an infected tree by paying attention to avoiding nutritional and moisture stress and making frequent foliar applications of a chelated trace element spray for citrus (most garden shops should stock such products). Alternatively you can remove a tree you believe is infected (it will decline and die eventually)."

So he believes once a year is it for the Bayer. I mentioned I was "within" 12 months meaning I can't reapply just yet. I still need to wait.

Where can I find Saf-T-Side or equivalent? What chelated sprays are favorites?

Thanks for the response!

Okay I have applied a Mineral Oil based Hort Oil as directed. Not wasting any time here in hopes of saving this tree. The label says in 30 days I can do it again. Is that about right or sooner?

I also purchased some Citrus Nutritional Spray (Southern AG) as directed. How soon can I use this after the Oil application? Concurrently? It's foliar so I want to be sure they are compatible. Maybe in two weeks?

Thanks all!

Clean, did you use Volck Oil if not what brand did you use? Good luck...I'm dealing with CLM on mine (hopefully, NO ACP as of yet...

Clean I found a good link last night on the internet while researching CLM its from Feb. of 2012...a Spring spray program for us in FL...I attached the link below. If I read it correctly it says you can mix the Nutritional Spray with the Horticultural oil in the same tank...just make sure you add the oil last on the sprayer. I too have been treating mine with Southern Ag Nutritional spray...

Also had a question on what the proper way to apply the Bayer's Advanced Fruit and Citrus...I know you're suppose to mix the correct amount ( depending on the width of the canopy) do you guys pour the solution at or near the trunk or only on the drip line?

Thanks,

Here is a link that might be useful: St. Lucie County Spring Citrus Care

Pug...

See below link for the product I used from Home Depot. Seems to be good and the reviews are good. We'll see how well it worked.

Good link, I'll wait the 30 days the oil asks for and then hit it with Nutrional spray, then do second the oil bath.

As for the Bayer, I'd drench mostly around the drip line keeping well away from the trunk. I think the goal here is the feeder roots (the small hairlike ones) that are further out.

I checked my notes and I did my last drench in August so I still have some months to wait.

Thanks and good luck to you as well!

Here is a link that might be useful: Oil Spray

Thanks for the link on the Bonide.

I'm assuming the Bayer's Advanced worked for you (unfortunately only for a few months)... just not long enough for the whole season apparently? Its too bad they don't recommend it for use 2x a year...that would definitely be helpful.

It's most likely due to the fact that it's for edibles. I am totally guessing here but if you decided to not eat any fruit off the tree for a year (say a sort of nip buds/no fruit/getting healthy only regimen), you may be able to use it more often or the more powerful version for non-edibles.

Again, just a guess. Not recommending anything to that regard. Someone with more experience or knowledge can get into that one for us. Hint, hint. ;)

24 hours after spraying with oil.

No sign of life anywhere. Any found insects were non responsive.

Excellent. I will keep a keen eye on things and report back.

Great news on not finding any more live bugs!! When is the next application on your directions say to reapply?

BTW, I called Southern Ag about their Citrus Nutritional spray and asked them about mixing their solution with the Hort.oil and they said they do not recommended mixing it with anything else...they say its best to spray it by itself and let the solution dry and then you can spray it with the other product...just thought I'd let you know...

Directions give 30 days. I think at week three I will do the nutritional spray, then a week later the second oil spray. Gives the Nutritional spray a week before the 2nd oiling.

Thanks for the heads up!

Southern AG people are usually very helpful. I was less than happy with the results with their product however. I have not been able to find manganese sulfate in less than a fifty lb bag to make my pet micro metals mix.

The iron I used with good results comes from pentaethylenehexamine (PEHA) chelant and the zinc, magnesium, and copper from sulfates.

Your lime looks like it needs some micros. If it does not respond to the treatment quickly, go ahead and give it a very light application of Epsom salts (Magnesium sulfate) broadcast starting 16 inches out from the base to about three feet past the "drip line". Example: 1/2 lb on a six foot tree. Then water it in well.

Then repeat the spray on a two week basis. It may help to add 1 tbl spoon molasses to a gallon of the spray. There is some iron in the molasses but I think it helps as a foliar.

Anybody know the species of the fly on pic #1. I used to have swarms of them and they are very beneficial. They catch white fly and ACLM moths on the wing.

The County has killed them and my assassin bug and green lacewings by spraying for West Nile virus mosquitoes.

tantanman, how much Epsom salts would you recommend adding to a small 3 1/2 ft Satsuma tall tree appx. the same size in width? Its a bit stunted due to a bad case of CLM from the last couple of years...I would like to add a little Epsom salts around the drip line but don't want to over do it...Also how often should I add this in a season? Thanks!!

Hello all. So far things are still good. The bees are back, in full force. The beneficial flies Pic #1 are also back. No signs of ants, aphids, or ACP. I am however finding orange dog eggs.

What's the consensus on these? Remove and smash, remove and relocate, or leave alone? The tree has had some orange dogs before, so I assume that's what the eggs are. Very round, laid singly. Typical butterfly eggs.

What's the protocol round these parts for these guys? Worth the leaf loss for some butterflies? Are they beneficial in any way?

Sticking to the plan, will hit with nutritional spray soon. What's with the directions telling me to use 11 gallons of water?? (tree height in feet plus 5) If you have a one gallon sprayer, can't you just use that with the indicated amount of concentrate? Why do they want me to use so much as a foliar spray? (No mention of soil drench). Is this how everyone is doing this around here? 1 gallon sprayer 11 times over? Haha seems insane.

Thanks, all! So far so good!

Puglvr1:

I'm not sure your tree needs magnesium. If it is growth you are after, try zinc. Zinc is indicated if you have small leaves and poor growth. I suggested Epsom salts since his pic indicated a magnesium deficiency. If you over do magnesium, fruit quality will suffer. I may go back to using the double salt K/Mg sulfate since this product is less harmful if over done. Remember, these are micro nutrients, and on a small tree, it is harder to get a small amount on with even coverage and not over do it. With sulfates it is best to use foliar applications except for Epsom salts. That is because the zinc, manangnese, and iron, may not be available if the soil pH is out of balance.

Except in very sandy soils, you are more likely to have a pH
problem than a nutrient deficiency if your leaves are turn yellow now.

If the tree shows winter chlorosis, yellowing of the leaves, then apply about one or at most two ounces of Epsom salts now. Repeat in two weeks to a month if it has not greened up. Another way is to dissolve it in a plastic garbage can and water it in.

Clean SC:

Please check instructions again. Eleven gal water must mean for the entire bottle. Typical foliars are in spoonfuls per gal.

Also some are for high pressure atomizing sprayers at stronger concentrations.

Thank you tantanman, appreciate your help and advise!!

Clean SC, what brand nutritional spray are you using? You can always call the company if you have questions...

The Southern ag nutritional spray directions on my bottle says this...

"For prevention of deficiencies, use 1 tablespoonful per gallon of water. One application per year is
normally sufficient. For correction of a known deficiency, use 2 tablespoons per gallon of water and make at least
2 applications at two week intervals. Apply spray in a manner that will provide thorough coverage to the point of run-off."

The entire intructions are below...

Here is a link that might be useful: So. Ag Citrus Nutritional Spray product label

Hey Pug...

You stopped at the mature tree part.

"On mature trees, the amount of spray required is approximately 1 gallon for each foot of height plus 5 gallons. A 20 foot tree would require 25 gallon of spray."

So my 6 footer is 6+5=11 gallons.

Do I ignore this and just put 11 gallons worth of concentrate into one gallon and have at it?

As for if it needs it, well... The tree has been totally abandoned since I got it, with many yellow leaves and such so I figured a shot of this couldn't hurt.

If we think it's not needed, I can return it to HD no problems. Or do a "just in case" dose of half what's recommended.

Oops,lol...I forgot your tree is a large one...mine are only 3 ft tall or smaller, ha, ha!!

I would call Southern Ag and ask for their expert advise giving them the exact size height and width of your tree so you can apply the proper amount...

Below is a list of their offices and contact info...I would call the one in Rubonia, FL...Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: So. AG contact info...