Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
karanb1r

Citrus Grafting.. Calling All Experts!!!

karanb1r
11 years ago

So I have this Orange tree stump with new shoots coming from all directions, and I want to graft onto those shoots.

I have a few questions. :)

So, I do not have any scions/bud wood, but I can easily obtain some. But I am worried about whether or not the scions/bud wood is even OK to graft at this time of year. I was assuming that citrus T budding would be ok?

I tried bark inlay grafting in January and had no success unfortunately, but it is warmer now and I am hoping it is a better time. I was given this website to look over citrus cleft graft, but I understand t-budding is better?

I have shoots that are pencil sized and some that are bigger, but they are mostly triangular, soft and flexible. should I let them grow some more?

Any methods for citrus grafting would be appreciated, and I would love to know any tips and tricks as my citrus grafts have been failures so far.

KB

{{gwi:581436}}

{{gwi:581437}}

{{gwi:581438}}

Comments (15)

  • bada_bing
    11 years ago

    I'm not an "expert" but I have done a few topworks on winter killed tree suckers similar to what you have posted.

    T-budding is only "better" in the sense that it is very conserving of budwood and very fast in practiced hands. It has some downsides in that it is seasonally limited, works best with a somewhat limited size of rootstock, and is less certain for the inexperienced. I don't see much advantage for T-budding for hobbyists.

    I would cleft graft those shoots. A saddle graft would work as well with a cleaner graft scar but is harder to do. The shoots don't look quite woody enough to whip-n-tongue but would if you waited till early fall.

    A couple pointers; parafilm makes for higher success rates and is worth the hassle to get a roll if you don't have it. Use rubber bands or plastic tape over it for a pretty tight bind of the graft union until it takes. Give the grafts partial shade until they take, direct hot sun is detrimental. Don't worry so much about a successful grafting that you neglect planning for tree shape. Grafting is pretty easy, coming out with a nicely balanced tree is a little harder.

    It appears that your remaining tree rootstock is some type of orange tree. Was the original tree on it's own roots or is the rootstock sour orange?

  • karanb1r
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks bada_bing!!! It is an orange tree and it was there when my dad bought the house 28 years ago. I see no graft union so I am pretty sure it was grown from seed.

    Could I do a wedge graft? Or is that not a good idea? Also if a wedge graft is ok, do I only have to match only one side of te cambium layers or does it have to be a near perfect match.

    KB

  • mrtexas
    11 years ago

    I'd T bud. I've had much better luck than with cleft

    Here is a link that might be useful: mrtexas

  • mrtexas
    11 years ago

    try the link

    Here is a link that might be useful: tips

  • copingwithclay
    11 years ago

    It seems that your photos show many young shoots that are not yet rounded and woody enough to graft onto. One of a zillion ideas would be to choose 6 of the biggest shoots that are growing in different directions and let THEM do ALL the growing up this year. Remove the other shoots.You can easily break off other new sprouts that will pop up along that thick trunk.I prefer using a serrated knife to shave off (flush with the bark)the entire bud 'wart' that the tiny bud emerges from, so the same 'wart' won't send new buds again and again as they get broken off.. With that tree's huge root system those 6 will really grow well as you water and feed it. Next Spring they will be much more likely to accommodate the scions or buds that you attach. You won't be losing a year, because the thicker, mature branches will better feed your scions.As they mature, instead of being 100% green, the branch bark will begin forming tan colored strips.

  • karanb1r
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    I was thinking about grafting in the next couple weeks and I'll tell you why.

    Please correct me if this is a bad idea.

    There are some shoots bigger than pencil size, the bark is slipping and the shoots are rounded at the bottom and a bit more triangular at the top. I plan to graft at the bottom.

    I will upload some pictures in a little bit. In the pics I made an inverted T and inserted a bud. I inserted buds using 2 different methods. Please tell me later which method is better too!!

    If these pictures prove to look OK for bud taking I will proceed later this week.

    Also I do not have parafilm... I was planning on using Teflon plumbers tape, will that be ok? If not I'll use something else.

    Thanks
    KB

  • karanb1r
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    So I removed 2 shoots, and tested the slipping on both and they were fine, I also practiced my t-bud grafts. Please also tell me if the practice grafts I show have a strong chance of taking????.. assuming I was going to wrap afterwards.

    These were two buds I removed. I saw a grafting video once and the guy said to take the white inner layer out making it the bud somewhat like a shield. The one on the right is with the white wood, the left is after it was removed. IS IT BETTER TO REMOVE THE WHITE PART????? or to leave it alone like the one on the right.
    {{gwi:581440}}

    Another view.
    {{gwi:581442}}

    {{gwi:581444}}

    This is with the small shield-like bud, above. Kinda messy but ill be more careful with the actual graft.
    {{gwi:581446}}

    {{gwi:581448}}

    This is with the bud with nothing removed, above.
    {{gwi:581450}}

    1)MAY I USE TEFLON PLUMBERS TAPE O.K to WRAP THE BUD WITH?
    2)WHICH BUD IS BETTER TO GRAFT WITH??
    3)AND BASED ON THE SHOOT I PRACTICED WITH( the pictures above,) AM I SAFE TO PROCEED WITH THE GRAFTING??

    Thank You
    KB

  • karanb1r
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    ***************************************************
    1)MAY I USE TEFLON PLUMBERS TAPE TO WRAP THE BUD AROUND WITH?
    2)WHICH BUD IS BETTER TO GRAFT WITH, THE SHIELD BUD OR REGULAR WITH NOTHING REMOVED??
    3)AND BASED ON THE SHOOT I PRACTICED WITH( the pictures above,) AM I SAFE TO PROCEED WITH GRAFTING ON THE SHOOTS ON THE TREE, GIVEN THEY ARE SIMILAR IN SIZE??

    Thanks
    KB

  • karanb1r
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Bump

  • fraserv
    11 years ago

    1. Remove the wood from behind the bud, or the graft will be weak
    2. Leave the leaf petiole on as an indicator of taking - if it falls the graft is good
    3. The bud should go into semi-hardwood stems

    You could wrap with plumbers tape, I have used it. Good luck!

  • karanb1r
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Here are the results for the citrus t bud graft I did on my orange tree.. I grafted 3 buds.. 2 oranges and 1 lime.

    I took one of the grafts off... I didnt label them.. anyways I was impatient and wanted to see what the graft looks like when fused... so I cut it in half... didnt take any pics... here are the results. the one on the bigger branch is growing a bit slower... I think thats because of the variety.. it might have been a dwarf orange tree... or is it because i did it on branch growing off the main branch???
    2 weeks ago
    {{gwi:581452}}
    today
    {{gwi:581454}}
    this one grows much faster,,, i think its a bearss lime
    {{gwi:581456}}

  • karanb1r
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    why is the one growing on the bigger branch slower growing? variety or because i grafted onto one of the shoots off the main branch? I have left only that branch off the main branch intact.

  • karanb1r
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    ???????????? any ideas?

  • hoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
    11 years ago

    Because it takes a while for the phloem layers to align. I think your graft is doing very well. Not to worry!

    Patty S.

  • serge94501
    9 years ago

    Any follow-up here? How'd it all turn out?