I don't know for sure; but I have been told that CLM just laughs at Imidacloprid (Bayer sytemic). I would think spinosad tank mixed with neem would be better; the clue is you have to start early... and apply it every 10-15 days until the new flush leaves begin to "harden"... CLM only likes the new tender shoots If you wait until you see the damage, it is way too late to control

In so cal, leafminer damage begins june/july and goes thru to november/december. Therefore apply bayer systemic insecticides june-ish.

Your plants are what you feed it. so I think yes, becareful. bayer thinks so too b/c imidacloprid concentration is much lower in the vegatable/citrus blend than in their non-fruiting blend.
bayer advance is freakishly good at killing/warding of any leaf biting insects, so no need for Neem spraying. So good that i'm glad that in so cal we dont get much rain, so there wouldnt be any run off of the soil drench contaminating other part of the garden.

one application seems to be good for 4-6 months, well enough for the peak of the leafminer cycle. use neem/spinosad when you think bayer effectiveness is wearing out.

mix neem and spinosad at correct dosaged, do not make 1 gal of each and mix.

Good luck , I'm hoping that is year freeze/cold spell will slow down leadminer activity.

If you want to use neem and spinosad, don't mix them. Use one one week and the other the next week. Alternate them, and use some surfactant to make it stick to the leaves better. If you alternate them, they won't become immune to either.

About imidicloprid - it is used on roses for chili thrips. It lasts about 6 weeks. There isn't any in the roses, even if they are blooming when it's applied, so the roses don't take it up, and it doesn't kill bees. So I think the risk of it getting into fruit is pretty non-existent. This is good news, since I've tried the neem/spinosad alternations, and it's harder to do when your trees get a bit larger.

Ok, thanks all! I have a plan now! :)