Why was this tree pruned? If you could post photos of the whole tree instead of the leaves, that would help. Where do you live? How frequently do you fertilize and with what? How frequently are you watering? Is there grass or weeds under your tree? How old is the tree? We need a bit more info to help you out, here. And, if you can post your photos right into your message, much, much easier for us. Just copy the HTML code of each photo, then paste that into the body of your message. You'll know you're successful as you'll see the photos in your message once you click on "Preview Message".

Patty S.

Yeah, lets see the tree. Sometimes pruning or overfertilization can cause new growth and leaf drop. New vegetative growth very often pushes out from where the older leaves are attached to the branch and the leaves drop prior to the push of the new growth.
Simon

I'm in Jacksonville FL. The Dancy was top pruned in Feb. and again after all the first flush dropped off. Several weeks ago my wife took off several branches, while I was at work LOL. One light fertilization so far, but lots of water. We live on a sand hill, they used to dig sand here back in the day.

The photos look like alternaria brown spot

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ch017

Here is a link that might be useful: Alternaria brown spot

Have you been over spraying your tree? Certain combinations of chemicals or over use can cause phytotoxicity. It basically a typed of chemical leaf scald that can only be remedied by time and patience. Correct watering and feeding also helps.

I would try to take some leaf and branch samples to your county extension office and have them test for disease. If there is no problem with disease then it looks like it could possibly be environmental issues.

Without all the info Hoosier asked for or a good pic its hard to tell.

Hi All:
Here are some more photos of the Dancy and Robinson. First chemical application today Spectracide Immunox (1/2 oz per gal).

https://picasaweb.google.com/hankua/DancyTangerine02?authkey=Gv1sRgCMO42db5l47S1wE

https://picasaweb.google.com/hankua/RobinsonTangering?authkey=Gv1sRgCJTq3Yjn2Yy36wE

Here is a link that might be useful: Dancy Tangerine

Possibly greasy spot? Google the "greasy spot" images and see what you think.

I would really get them tested first before spraying too much. If it is greasy spot organocide oil works very well and it is all natural.

But we can never really be %100 without a test.

Greasy spot also over winters on fallen leaves. So I would start by cleaning around the bottom of your tree and spraying an oil to deter the spread and growth of any disease pathogens. But if you have already sprayed immunox I do not recommend spraying anything for a little while. I dont know if there could be a reaction or not.

Thanks! For the oil are you talking about horticultural oil or will neem oil do? I'm planning on getting some ultra fine oil, but have not purchased it just yet. I'll have to call the county office about testing to see if that's available. The USDA does drive around occasionally; looking for citrus canker?

Just google organocide and neem oil. They are TWO DIFFERENT types of oil. I think they are both good against greasy spot though. Just dont use them in conjunction with copper or captan...lol I have read that neem oil is not that effective against greasy spot but it does increase its effectiveness when used with low rates of copper but I dont know if you want to go that route. Organocide has been touted as a good control for greasy spot. This book has some good info

http://books.google.com/books?id=3pnGgZNXyY0C&pg=PA519&lpg=PA519&dq=neem+oil+and+greasy+spot&source=bl&ots=8Silt3wNpw&sig=ROeQZbd9DYHVTcuEDRpmCx-8FdM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=-XyhT6DxGvOI2gWgwsjWCQ&ved=0CCwQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=neem%20oil%20and%20greasy%20spot&f=false

Im not to sure which one will work better but if it is greasy spot it will take a while to get rid of it as all you can do now is control it and make sure it doesnt spread. Clean up all the leaves from around the tree. I would try to maybe remove the most damaged or infected leaves? Basically you want to create an environment that is not conducive for the growth/spread of disease. Oil does that very thing. My young navel had greasy spot BAD and I have had great results with organocide but it took a couple growing cycles to notice and my tree is still pretty small. I spray it when new growth starts to prevent any infections and later when I see flower buds and petal fall. But that is IF it is greasy spot, so get a test. Im sure someone with more knowledge will chime in to either lash me or agree with me...lol

But if you can find your counties extension office they usually test for free.

Picked up some Liquid Copper from Home Depot and plan on applying this week. Do you add anything to it like Spreader Sticker? Other question; use the backpack sprayer or is it OK to use the Ortho Tree Sprayer?

Made it down to the Ag. ext. office Friday and it looked like greasy spot to them. The handout they gave me was from www.mycitrustree.com and the suggested treatment was oil or oil and copper. Thursday I sprayed the tree with liquid copper and now have Summit Year-Round Spray Oil, which is 98.8% mineral oil.

So do I give it another treatment next week with oil or oil and liquid copper together?

DO NOT USE OIL AND COPPER TOGETHER....lol

Copper and oil are bad if used together. The oil acts as an "enhancer" by basically widening a path by opening the stomates(pores I think)on your trees leaves and more copper is absorbed than the tree needs. Copper is used as a preventative, usually on stone fruit trees and to slow down crown rot/root rot problems. If you use it when your tree is in full bloom or on a citrus you run the risk of harming your leaves. Copper is a great fungicide for many plants but in this case I recommend against it.

Basically greasy spot is a slow fix. Any leaf that gets greasy spot will eventually fall off the tree. You cannot cure greasy spot, only prevent it. I had it on my Washington navel and the tree basically became %90 defoliated. It was a young small tree though. Anyways, organocide works great. It is really only one of a few pest/disease products you will need for citrus trees.

Greasy spot is a bacteria that spreads by moisture, wind and leaf waste. The spores can remain on the tree for a long time and in the dead leaves that fall to the ground. The spores shoot up from the dead leaves and get back on your tree. Spores shoot off of the newly infested leaves by wind, water and just pure nature. You want to create an environment on your citrus leaves that is non-conducive for bacteria growth/infestation. Organocide is an organic safe oil that does this.

If you have already sprayed copper I would wait a couple weeks (3 to be safe) to apply anything else. When you do apply the organocide use it once and then monitor any fallen leaves. Pick them up right away. When you see new growth, spray again. You want to put the oil on all the leaves and new growth to stop it from spreading. It takes a while depending on how bad your greasy spot is but it is worth it. Trust me, I made the copper mistake. Copper is good but it is not needed for this.

Make sure you spray everywhere! And make sure you clean up dead leaves. And especially watch for new growth and spray again with organocide. It works for quite a few citrus problems. Mine cleared up in 2 months but my tree is small. But the key is to cover the new growth with the oil to prevent bacteria from taking hold.

Remember, oils create an unhealthy environment for pest/bacteria. Copper does the same but is much more potent and causes phytotoxicity when used with some other chemicals and oils.

I guess I lucked out. I bought a Dancy from H.D. last year after the first hard freeze in N. TX. It was one of twenty or so citrus that survived the freeze. I expected it to suffer from the shock of being frozen but, I kept it in the garage during freezing weather and it blossomed very well.
It hardly lost any leaves and now has nine tangerines about the diameter of quarters.
Good luck with all the advice you have been given.