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Satsuma Orange Yellowing Leaves

dlogsdon
9 years ago

I have a 2 year old Satsuma Mandarin planted in a 15 gallon pot. It gets 8 hours of sun per day. It has well drained soil. I allow the soil to dry between waterings (weekly), I have tested the soil and have neutral pH, medium Nitrogen and Phosphorus, and slightly low Potash. It produced a large number of blooms early, but most have fallen. The new growth looks bright and healthy, but a bit pale green. As the leaves mature they begin to curl slightly and turn yellow and eventually fall. I have a Bear Lime growing in exactly the same conditions that is full and healthy. I am at a loss as to what the problem can be. Any help is appreciated.

Comments (11)

  • jean001a
    9 years ago

    What do you use for fertilizer? How often? and when was the last time?

  • dlogsdon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for responding. I use E.B. Stone Citrus fertilizer 7-3-3. I fertilize once per month, 3/4 cup based on the directions. Last time was about a month ago. Before I fertilize again I wanted to try to figure out what's going on with it.

  • dlogsdon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Another photo in case it helps.

  • BarbJP 15-16/9B CA Bay Area
    9 years ago

    E.B. Stone Citrus fertilizer is a great fertilizer for in-ground citrus, but I found it didn't do very well in containers.

    Try switching to Osmocote Plus, I found it worked much better in containers. You can use the Osmocote even with the E.B. Stone is still in the pot.

    You water once a week? To me, that seems pretty long between watering in that sized pot, at least when the air temps are warm like they have been lately.

    Do you check the soil moisture down deep in the pot before watering, like with a wooden dowel?
    Is this tree in a different location from your Lime? Does it get more or less sun or wind?
    What kind of potting soil did you use and how long since you potted it up?
    Do the yellow leaves fall off easily when touched or do they stay on pretty good?

    Some more info will help us help you. Thanks.

  • dlogsdon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I will definitely try switching up fertilizer. As for watering, generally it is once per week, but with the warmer weather I have been a little more frequent when it needs it. And yes I check the soil about 2 inches down before watering. The potting soil is a citrus specific blend that I bought at the nursery when I purchased the tree (about 2 years). It is very loamy and drains well. Location compared to the lime is essentially the same. I even switched locations with them a couple of months back thinking that could have some effect, but it didn't. The leaves do not fall off when touched immediately after turning, but usually within a couple of weeks they do. I also notice that many of the newer fruits with blooms are yellowing and falling. The developed ones as you see in the picture seem to be fine, although the branches are a bit bare. Like I said, conditions between the two plans are identical, soil, fertilizer, water, wind, etc... Even soil tests are the same. I've been growing plants for 30+ years and am generally very good, but this one has me stumped. Thanks,

  • dlogsdon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    One correction to the earlier post. It is in a 25 gallon pot not 15.

  • meyermike_1micha
    9 years ago

    If you provide your tree with a good water soluable fertilizer with all the micros in it, it should green up as long as the potted roots are no over heating and that you are not over or under watering...

    To me, it looks like they are getting way too much hot sun....The leaves look faded out, almost tired and almnost dehydrated at the same time..

    Do you keep your pots{{gwi:807}} out in the sun during the hottest part of the day and are they dark colored or ceramic?

    In your very hot sun, the mix should always be evenly moist, never to dry out completely..

    MIke

    This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Mon, Jun 2, 14 at 17:13

  • dlogsdon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks Mike. The pot is dark ceramic, but with the exception of a few days in the high 90s - 100 last month the temps have been averaging 75-80. Checking the soil in the hottest part of the day, it stays relatively cool an inch below the surface. I can't imagine that its too much sun. I did move it to partial sun about a month ago, but it actually looked to be getting worse. I only let the top 1 inch of soil dry. As I mentioned in the earlier post I have a Bear Lime that has exactly the same conditions that is doing excellent. I'm up for trying just about anything to save it. I'm hoping the fertilized switch will do some good. Thanks

  • meyermike_1micha
    9 years ago

    Hi Diog,

    The reason why I asked you is because I suspect you have impaired root function for some reason. Either from burnt roots first suspect, salt toxitity or sometthing else..

    I find that some plants grown exactly the same way can have totally different reactions to a many of things around the, Citrus no exception..

    There are many different reasons for yellow leaves, and disqualitfying one possiblt culprit at a time can narrow it down to your problem..

    For instance..All this can cause yellowing leaves..

    * Using organic ferilizers that either don't deliver the nutrients in a reasonable amount of time, or that clog up air/porous spaces in the mix. Then some burn roots.

    * Over heated roots can be impaired, or past root damage from just one die off from hot pots can cause nutrient availablity concerns.
    You say the the temps are cooler, but that does mean that the intense sun can't damage roots,in hot containers.

    * Salt toxitity from using mixes that allow salt deposits to accumilate from tap water and fretilizers which burn off fine root hairs that do the bull work.

    * Temps too cold...Root function is impaired when temps drop below 55 degrees or rise above 90 degrees..Not too bad if once in a while, but if consistent, then this can happen

    * Using a ferilizer without Ca and Mg, or those without minor elements..

    * Too much of a certain nutrient over another..Usually caused by using certain elements that antagonizes another..

    * Effect on pH . Just by increasing soil pH, phosphate may be released and increased in the soil. But if the pH goes unduly high, phosphates can also be tied up. Using more than enough lime can cause the pH to increase by so much that this happens. In addition, pH can tie up other elements as it increases, such as boron, iron, manganese, copper and zinc.

    I hope you get to the bottom of it..

    Make sure your pots are not over heating, that the sun is not directly hitting the pots and that you use a good soluable readily available feritilizer with all the macro and minor nutrients..
    Make sure your water solution is acidic enough to allow the nutrients you provide to be utilized if your water pH is to high.
    Make sure the temps are consistently above 55 degrees.
    Don't over water or under water..

    I wish you all the luck.

    Mike

    *

    This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Mon, Jun 2, 14 at 19:48

  • dlogsdon
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for the detailed response Mike. I've done soil samples and the pH, N, K, P are all good according to the plant guides. It looks like I might have to try replanting in a larger pot to ensure the roots aren't getting overheated. I'll test for salt toxicity, maybe that will tell me something. Anything else you can think of is appreciated.
    Thanks again.

  • hoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
    9 years ago

    To me, I agree with Mike - root compromise, but I suspect it's due to being too dry. Your potting medium, if allowed to dry out, may become hydrophobic. I would drench your tree until water is running out freely. Water it again, the same way the next day. Try to re-hydrate your tree. Once your soil is well hydrated, then try fertilizing it with Osmocote Plus and Foliage Pro. I live in the same zone you do, so if you're also in S. California, I wouldn't worry about lowering the pH. If you're in a different area, with high municipal water pH, then it would help to lower your pH of your tap water, as Mike has mentioned. I never have had to do that, my container trees do quite well. I use a different potting mix that what you have used, as it compacts too easily, and becomes hydrophobic too easily if allowed to dry out.

    Patty S.

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