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meyer lemon, key lime, and blood orange tree.

Posted by blue72 (My Page) on
Mon, Jun 18, 12 at 19:34

i just got them today they came in a 2.5 pot. when should i switch pots and what size pot and what of ferzilter. have some garden soil. and i live in detroit.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: meyer lemon, key lime, and blood orange tree.

Can you post a pic of the plants?


RE: meyer lemon, key lime, and blood orange tree.

RE: meyer lemon, key lime, and blood orange tree.

Gosh, I've never seen citrus that tiny before! I guess they can't be already grafted, then.

Patience is a virtue.

RE: meyer lemon, key lime, and blood orange tree.

They look to be rooted cuttings. I would transplant them right away into at least a one gallon pot with a well draining soil. Garden soil is not good for potted citrus. If you do a search here for Gritty Mix or Al's Mix, you will get a good basic course in citrus container soils.
Fertilize with a well balance citrus fertilizer, according to label directions about 4 times per year and water when the soil is nearly dry. Again, if you do the above soils search you will get advice better than I can give you about water for containers.

RE: meyer lemon, key lime, and blood orange tree.

wow, those are tiny, i agree with John, they do look like rooted cuttings.

since you're up north in the cold, i'd also recommend Al's gritty mix. since cold temps and too much moisture in the soil will cause root rot. citrus do not like wet feet.

FYI before it gets cold, once your night temps drop below 40'F you'll want to bring your citrus indoors, provide ample lighting, decrease the amount of water they get. you can look in the 'growing under lights' forum to get some ideas. possible setups: 4' shoplight with fluorescent tubes, metal halyde lamp, high pressure sodium lamp, high wattage CFL's (spiral bulbs).

RE: meyer lemon, key lime, and blood orange tree.

The Meyer especially is quite sensitive to dramatic light changes; it will respond by dropping most or all of its leaves to replace them with new leaves better suited to the new light. To avoid this problem move them from full sun to partial shade, then to full shade, then indoors in steps of 10 days to 2 weeks each. Reverse the process when putting them outside in the Spring.

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