CG, rooting Cal's shouldn't be any different than lemons and limes. You want a sturdy cuttings, and place in the same mix you use for lemons and limes.
Was there a certain time of year you started the other cuttings? Toni

I quite agree with hopefulauthor -- cal. cuttings are among the easiest of all citrus to root, and need no special tricks. The same conditions you've used for the other types should work. But time of year and weather at the time could have a big influence on any variety's ability to root.

I failed to say how we root them, with nearly 100% success.

Certainly, ours is not necessarily the "best" or only "right" way; but it is a method we know works well, so perhaps may be helpful to share.

We use leafy cuttings with green bark. Cuttings should be firm, with full-size, dark green leaves. A too-young cutting (soft stem, soft, undersize leaves) or too-old (bark acquiring grey or white color) will be possible, but less likely to root.

I like a cutting at least 4" long, and up to 8". Leave at least 2 or 3 leaves at the top. More is fine. Wound the base of the cutting by cutting off a couple of thin strips of bark, for about the lower 1/2" of the cutting. I usually cut one strip on a side, turn it 180 degrees, and cut a second one. We dip our cuttings either into a #2 hormone powder (0.4% indole-3-butyric acid) or (more commonly) a liquid solution (Dip-'N-Grow, one part, diluted in 6 or 7 parts water). Dip the base of the cutting, a bit deeper than the wounds you've made. If using powder, carefully tap the excess off -- you want a thin film, not great lumps.

We then pot the cuttings up in a peat/perlite mix (any commercial peat/perlite potting soil should do), in small pots. Lately I've been using forestry bands 2.5 x 2.5 x 6.5", and we put them in an intermittent mist system, which mists the cuttings 5 seconds every 5 minutes during daylight hours, and is off at night. The mist system is outdoors with no roof and no shading, so the temperature is controlled by the weather, and the cuttings get full sun at mid-day. Rooting takes about 3 weeks or a bit more, depending on the time of year. When we have good roots coming out the bottom of the pot, we remove them from the mist and harden them off in partial shade, in a greenhouse, for a few weeks, then pot them up into larger pots and grow them on outdoors, in full sun.

When sticking the cuttings, if you use a powder hormone, pre-poke the holes into the potting soil, rather than punching the cutting base into it. That allows you to avoid wiping away the hormone powder as the cutting moves into the soil.

I've rooted cuttings precisely as MM writes..and after you stick the stem cutting in the pre-made hole, cover with more soil medium..Toni

Thanks for the info. I use the same basic technique when rooting cuttings except I usually use Rootone. When scraping the bark, do you actually cut into the bark down to the wood, or just rough up the bark a little bit?

Also, is there any drawback from rooting a cutting that is already branched? In other words, instead of just rooting a stick, can I root a cutting that is forked, or may 3-4 forks so that the cutting will take on a fuller look when it leafs out?

GG

I always cut to the bark, to expose the cambium, which is where the root initials will form. Branched cuttings tend to root just fine, but I avoid them simply because I like a tree with a single trunk near the base. If you don't mind low branching, it's fine.

I hate when that happens, to hit "submit message" rather than the revision thing. I meant to say I always cut to the WOOD, not bark...

Excuse the butting in:

Dr. Manners - Is there a "maximum length" for cuttings? If I start out with a 2 ft. branch, will it accelerate the maturation of the rooting tree?

What if we don't have an automatic misting system, how would we get a similar amount/quality of watering done?

Thanx!

I do not have anything as sophisticated as an intermittent misting system, but still have good success at rooting cuttings.
I put the complete pot with cuttings in place, and watered, in a clear polythene bag with the top tied. This is then placed on a tray of sand with a heat mat underneath if the day temperature is less than 70F. In a shaded place in my greenhouse, most cuttings root in around one month.
Try and avoid leaves touching the bag, as they can start rotting. I blow into the bag to puff it up every so often.
Never leave in direct sun, or you will have stewed cuttings!

To CDG: It's not the 'amount/quality' of watering that matters, but simply to avoid the cutting drying out before its own roots can supply moisture. Intermittent misting does this, or my plastic bags provide a 100% humidity environment with no loss of moisture because the bag is sealed.
Remember that some citrus varieties are susceptible to 'foot rot'. One advantage of grafting/budding is that this problem, with immune rootstocks, is removed. Rooted cuttings can suffer in later life!

The rooted cutting, assuming it came from a mature (fruiting) branch, is mature from the start. So no, the size of the cutting will not affect that. And a 2-foot cutting would likely be more difficult to root than a shorter one, simply because the wood at the base of a 2-foot cutting is older. Still, if you can root it, it should make a perfectly acceptable plant.

Citrange's method -- covering with plastic, works well if you don't have a mist system. Its disadvantages are a much increased potential for rotting, and the need to keep the cuttings out of direct sun, which somewhat lessens their likelihood of rooting. Nevertheless, you should be able to get some to root that way, but perhaps not 100%.

Another possibility, if you want to root a larger branch (finger thick or more) would be to air-layer it on the parent tree. Of course that means you need quite a large parent tree to start with.

Base on my experience, Calamondin cuttings are harder to root than Lisbons or Meyer lemons. I just cut off a branch of my lemons, stick them to the ground, and they grow. I have not been as successful with Calamondins, they need the root hormone trick, and the misting to be more successful. Even with air layering, the calamondins are the most stubborn ones and the slowest to develop roots.

Dr Manners: Please tell me where did you buy the intermittent mist system? i have never heard any thing like that. I always root my citrus in a pot covered with a plastic bag. Not 1oo% success though. I rooted successfully many Thai limes. They were in very good shape but then they all died of foot rot! And from then on I only graft the scions on citrus trees.