Your plant looks very stressed. It is showing signs of either inadequate soil moisture or root damage (the curling is the plants way of trying to conserve moisture). You are going to have to provide more environmental clues as well (sun exposure, temperatures, etc, general area of the country etc.). If it were mine, I would take it out of the ground, pot it up in a good quality citrus potting soil (make up your own, do not use a peat based soil like MG), make sure for water thoroughly when you do water, then dry slightly, give good sun, introduce some food, etc.., and it should begin to grow. (Citrus do quite well in containers.) Once it recuperates and grows some, you can begin to work on the intended planting area and its soil. Citrus will grow in a variety of soils as long as there is good drainage. Maybe someone here will chime in to tell you how to improve a soil that is heavily clay.

This is a Meyer, so best advice ... leave it in the ground; Meyers in containers need a LOT of extra attention and care. In soils with a lot of clay with average weather conditions a good soaking once a week is probably adequate. I would guess your tree just needs food and some time to adjust to its new environment. I don't see anything that bothers me; but if it were my tree I would give it a good dose of a good quality citrus fertilizer; and since it is a Meyer I would look for fert that has an NPK ratio of 3-1-2 with Magnesium very important; then I would give it 1.5 times the dose recommended on the package, applied at the drip line of the tree and watered in well. After that apply some foliar fert, if you like and then apply a little patience.

Thanks guys! I'm new to citrus, so when you say to make your own citrus fertilizer, what should that consist of? Otherwise, if store-bought, which brand(s) would you recommend for this?

As far as how I planted it - I did notice several roots sticking out above the surface. I buried with more soil and tried to cover with the mulch. I think I just have to be careful about watering since I use the hose and it can tend to erode with too much pressure from the stream. I was thinking I should make a watering stake with some 3" PVC I have laying around.

This post was edited by jplee3 on Sun, Jul 28, 13 at 18:12

i believe he meant to make your own soil not fertilizer and for that alot of people use 5-1-1 or gritty mix which you can search on here. both are good recipies but myself i just use marical grow cactus soil and it works great.

id have to agree with john though. water once a week and fertilize. the dyna grow foliage pro is what most folks around here use and it seems to work great for them. (id say lack of fertilizer is your main problem here). you can water the tree all u want without the right nutrients it will starve. also be very carefull not to over water. plants that have too much water look the same as plants with not enough which tends to trick people into watering more and killing the tree.

this is the best advice we can give you without knowing where you are and how much direct sun your tree gets a day / avereage temerature in your area.

good luck
chris

We know nothing about the growing conditions of the plant (sun, temps, drainage, etc.), problem will not be solved by just adding fertilizer. The plant is showing signs of stress--not due to fertility or lack thereof. How can we have give any advice on watering frequency when we know nothing regarding the environmental conditions? As far as using MG cactus soil, it is basically peat moss.

Thanks guys. Here in Southern California, the temps for the past couple weeks have ranged but it's cooled down a bit. It was in the 80s-90s for a few months consistently but it the past week or so I'd say it's been down to the 70s-80s. The plant is in a location where it was getting probably 8 or so hours of sunlight. Now it seems to get probably around 6-8 if I had to guess.

duplicate

This post was edited by jplee3 on Sun, Jul 28, 13 at 22:31

njoasis i agree that there is a lack of information its why i said this is the best advice we can give without more info at the end of my post... but he has said the tree has been in the ground for several months so i would rule out stress due to enviormental changes (i could be wrong but i would say you would notice that alot sooner)... that said there are many other reasons the tree could be stressed and it could be a mix of reasons..... but again due to lack of info i (or we) can only give very general advice (or more or less tips)

for the MG cactus i planted my trees before i did much research on growing citrus early this spring. all im saying here is ive seen good growth and all my plants are healthy so if for whatever reason you cant/dont want to go through the trouble of making your own soil you can get away with using it. personally i dont see the need to transplant my trees (that are doing well) again till next spring. and if someone is going to just buy off the shelf soil this might be a better option then regular potting soil. just trying to provide him with as much help and info as possible

cheers
chris

Thanks again all.

So as far as the location of the tree, it should be in a pretty sunny location of the yard. When I planted it (back in the April/May timeframe) that particular spot (south-west part boxed out corner of the yard) was getting pretty full sunlight (around 8 hours a day). I think as of late the position of the sun has changed and shadows from the south-wall are cast earlier in the afternoon. I'd estimate at least 1-2 hours less of direct sunlight right now.

As far as temps go, it was probably 10+ degrees hotter when I planted it (probably in the 80s-90s). Lately it's been a bit more humid but with lower temps (70s-80s). It's also cooled down a bit more at night time.

I think the primary problem here is either with the roots or with the soil. (Inadequate OR excessive water retention--confusing, because the plant can end up looking the same with both extremes!) Sounds like the plant never really was thriving. So, rather than calling it 'stress' we can call 'failure to thrive'. I have had containerized plants/trees pout like this. Yes, they can grow out of it. Still, I would take it out, containerize it for a bit, work on that planting bed and replant once your plant gains some stamina. Just my opinion. Good luck!

Thanks. I might be over-watering it. I think I'll scale back on that for sure for the time being. If I recall, I think it was actually doing better when it was in its original pot that it was in when I got it from the store. After planting it it seems to have gone slightly downhill.

In the meantime, what medium would you suggest planting it in if I were to containerize it? And what else could I do to the current planting bed to help make it more fertile?

Again....... apply a little patience; don't change anything, give it a little food applied at the dripline; and give it a chance to adjust to its environment. Your tree will adapt to the soil it has... don't stress.

If it was my Meyer, i'd follow Johnmerr's suggestion. It is doubtful you will kill it by containerizing, but you could lose 6 months or more of growth if the roots chunk away during the "operation".

Having said that, i've done it - that is, pulled a citrus out of the ground and back into the container to investigate an issue. I could not figure out what was going on so felt i had no choice. I think in your case, you have room to dig away from the Meyer to do that investigative work without pulling it.

Patience, proper food and water, and you will be rewarded! - Good Luck!
- George K.

There wasn't any weed killing product being used in area, was there?

njoasis, if my memory serves me correctly I may have sprayed a light application of RoundUp on a weed that was growing nearby (outside of the dripline) earlier on but that was once. I definitely haven't done anything like that recently or consistently.

I use Roundup with my 21,000 Meyers weekly; that is not the problem. IMHO you do not HAVE a problem; put a little food and have a little patience.

Thanks Johnmerr for the reassurance. I'll look for some good food and give it some time then :) It sounds like I can definitely cut back on the watering schedule at the very least.

Alright, so yesterday I moved the pine-bark away from the trunk and outside of the dripline, dug up some of the soil and mixed in fresh gardening soil as well as several cup-fulls of the Espoma citrus/avocado food. And watered it in a little bit.
The leaves seem even more curled and droopy between the time I posted the picture and now. I'm assuming it'll take some time (hopefully) for the tree to get healthier.

Is it OK to do a light watering or mist the tree/leaves on a daily basis? Or should I avoid doing that and focus on deep waterings once a week?

Here's an updated picture. I installed a couple of pvc 'watering stakes' I kinda made myself. Just drilled a bunch of holes in some 3/4", tapered the bottom to a point, and tapped them in on opposing sides of the tree where the dripline is (or close-by). I've only filled them manually with a hose/sprayer and have no immediate intention of hooking these up to the irrigation yet.

This post was edited by jplee3 on Mon, Aug 12, 13 at 17:36

I think that tree is seriously hurting for water; filling some 3/4 inch pipes will never give the tree the water it You need to just lay the hose there and let it run a while to give the whole root system (which extends to the dripline and a bit beyond) a good soaking to a depth of at least 18-24 inches.

I have a couple of questions???

How come you did not bury the tree properly so you could have a gully around the oitside of the trunk and so that the water could build up in there thoroughly watering you tree every time you water?

How come you transplanted it right into the full sun without any protection until it got used to its location and then introduce the sun slowly?

It has had a bad start to begin with, and it can take months even years for this particular plant, Meyer Lemon to come around...

That is what we do for many trees used to being in pots, so that the roots take to adjusting well instead of going through damage from the start from shock and then trying to recoup for the next few months until it dies..If at one point you have underwatered that poor tree, it a gonna..
Most if not all trees should be thoroughly watered deeply in a well draing ground mix once a week for the first growing season for roots to take hold and prevent shock..
I find it hard to believe you have over watered since it's hot there unless it is sitting in a puddle of mud or water.Remember the earth acts like a giant wick and draws moisture away from the roots, especially in clay.

I would lift it from the ground as Dave says ,and check the roots..Cut off all the dead ones if it's not too late and use a good mix in a pot until it fully recovers and then pot it into the ground properly next time..Prefferrably in the cooler months.. I would stick that now potted tree in onlt shade for a few days then in only bright light, not direct sun until teh leaves perk up or look like they are getting hydrated.

If the roiots are already dead, you can water all you want and they will not work anyway..They were probably desicated at some point, all teh more reason to check those roots..Sometimes patience kills if you sit idle watching it die off if you have not exhausted al means ..I would make sure the roots are healthy before you loose it...

The clay you speak of, any mix only serves as an anchor for the tree, and that is why John keeps saying to fertilize. You need to provide nutrients in a nutrient defficient soil..BUt then if teh roots are not functioning properly, its useless at this point.

Good luck

Mike

This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Mon, Aug 12, 13 at 20:40

Okay, let's start at the beginning. First off, where are you located? That helps us a bit. Secondly, you indicate that you have clay soil. For those folks on clay, you really should do a percolation test before you plant a tree (or any plant, especially a cultivar that will not tolerate wet roots). Dig your hole, then fill it with water. It should drain in 3 hours or so. If not, then you have drainage issue. I suspect this may be the case for you, and your tree is actually demonstrating being suffocated from too much water (which can look very much like not receiving enough water).

In most "rescue" cases, I will usually tell folks to keep your tree in the ground. However, I agree with MeyerMike here - dig your tree up. Plant it in a well draining mix. I would opt to use a high quality Cactus Potting Mix (EB Stone makes a good one). It is not quite as well draining as the 511 or Gritty Mix discussed on this forum, but we're going to try to re-transition this tree to back in the ground, so I think going with something a little less well-draining is going to make for an easier transition. Plant in a container, and then water enough to moisten the soil, then do not water until you can feel that the soil is starting the dry out - stick your finger down into the pot and check so you know. Then water thoroughly. Keep your tree in a location that gets afternoon shade. Enough sun for recovery, but not so much that we're going to burn your defoliated tree. If you're in S. California, in a moderate temperature area, this might be once a week (or possibly less while the roots are working to repair themselves.) After about two weeks, start watering with 1/2 strength DynaGro Foliage Pro. Once your start to see some flushing of new leaves, you can also add a time release higher nitrogen fertilizer. I use Osmocote Plus, but I do not believe it is available any longer. See if you can find Dynamite Citrus & Palm, or Dynamite Select. Either will help your little tree to recover a little faster, along with the Foliage Pro. Allow your tree to recover in a pot for at least a year. I had to do this with two of my rarer citrus, as they were ravaged by Phytophthora (too much water for me as well, but the results created a proliferation of this fungal infection, I do not believe this is your issue, fortunately).

Once your tree has recovered, let's try to plant it back in the ground, but this time, let's find out how well or poorly draining your soil really is, first. If you find that your hole takes longer than three hours to drain (don't be surprised if you find water still in it the next morning, if you truly have clay soil), then you will want to plant your tree on a mound. Normally I do not advocate amending your soil. This is not the current thinking with trees. With one exception - HEAVY clay soils. So, take a large wheelbarrow, and mix 1/2 native soil, and then 1/3 high quality soil mix high in organic material (Kellogg's GrowMulch is a good choice), as then a handful of gypsum. Make a nice, tall mound, at least 2' taller than your soil level. Plant your tree on the top of the mound. Don't bury your tree too deeply - seeing the root collar will be a good thing. Then, make a well at the base of the mound so that the water will collect at the bottom of the mound. Water once a WEEK, to a depth of 18 to 24" as John has mentioned. Then, next week, before you water, check the soil moisture. You can use a garden stake (I use one of those cheap green plastic covered stakes you can get at Home Depot). See if the soil really is dried out. Your tree will tell you if it's dry - the leaves will start to cup upward. If your tree is getting dry, water again, deeply. You may need to water more frequently if temps go way up next summer. Fertilize in ground citrus 3 to 4 times a year with a good quality fertilizer formulated for citrus. I usually fertilize in February, April, June, and September. Always water your tree first, then fertilize, then water in the fertilizer. Clay soil is actually very rich in minerals, and if you manage your water and drainage, is a great soil for growing citrus trees in. You just must identify your drainage, and then adjust your watering accordingly.

Mike,just as an aside, I rarely protect my young citrus from the sun here where I live. Unless I have a tree that has a lot of trunk exposed, I don't need to do that. But, I'm in a fairly moderate climate for S. California, compared to those who live more inland. Not sure where jplee lives. He's in zone 10 like me, but that could also be in Florida (thought I doubt it). In areas of more intense sun and heat, it is a very good thing to protect young citrus from the afternoon intense sun. But, I'm guessing jplee is maybe from my neck of the woods. We have areas here in San Diego county (mostly further south of me) where they have very dense clay soil. I am fortunately on DG here in N. San Diego county.

Patty S.

Patty..I would cut, paste, and save the info you provided if I could plant citrus in the ground in a heart beat....I would say that took a well thought out demonstration of your success.

There are only a few that I would follow to tea in the U.S growing area and that making you one of them..

Jplee3....I would stick with one suggestion and see if all else here ties in with it, that being Patty's....

It is obvious to me that she knows how to grow terrific trees here in the U.S and I think it lucky to have a citrus grower like her here....It's that easy:-)

Mike

I hope things work out for this poor tree...it was looking pretty rough in the last photo. I think the main issue might have been the corner it was planted in. I think you said it was in a SW corner. Here in Texas, a plant that close to a brick or stucco wall will get baked by the evening sun because of heat reflected off the wall during the hottest time of day.

Thank you, Mike, that is very kind of you. Actually, I probably have learned more based on my failures than my successes for sure :-) I tend to either over-love my plants, or get so crazy busy, that they struggle from neglect :-) I struggle to find that happy medium, as you have done so well with your trees, I am very envious of that! All my issues with phytophthora, for example, was from too much "love" in the form of too much water. I learned from the experts here (several commercial citrus and avocado growers), and it was from them I learned about the importance of proper watering as well as how to successfully treat Phytophthora. Of course, the most salient comment from on of the experts at UC Riverside was, "this will be moot if you do not overwater." So true! And, we have a LOT of clay in San Diego county, so we talk about how to manage this quite a bit. Let's hope jplee can save his little tree. Citrus are amazingly resilient. So, if he can carefully re-pot into a container, and give it some TLC, I think he can try again, next spring, and try it back in the ground.

John, depends where jplee lives, I guess. Here towards the coast of California, this would be a very ideal location. Inland, possibly not so much - the tree might get a little hot, depending upon the exposure.

Patty S.

This is my first post. Hope I'm doing it right!

I have an approx. 2-3 yr. old supposedly Improved Meyer but I wonder, as my last one had thorns and this one doesn't. It's in a 15 gal pot that drains well. I think it was stressed when I bought it as it dropped most leaves and got scale last year, all of which I overcame. Now it blooms like crazy, sets hundreds of lemons, but drops almost all of them. I've tried thinning them to no avail. From the hundreds I now have 6 that will ripen I think. I'm in the Dallas, TX area, zone 7-8. I am totally organic and use Medina Hasta-Gro 6-12-6 and Garrett Juice, both Texas products, with good results on all my plants. My Satsuma orange right next to it, same age & treatment, keeps most of its fruit but not all. Any suggestions? Thanks!

First thing is, it is always better to start your own post instead of tacking your problems onto another post that has different questions and solutions.
Next, a Meyer is not a Satsuma; and needs special care. Your Meyer looks under watered and underfed; it needs an NPK ratio of 3-1-2 with Mg, CA, FE, Zn. Organics are notoriously inadequate for most citrus and especially Meyers. If you really want to stay "organic", look for Espoma Citrus Tone; it is a bit pricey, but a good product and I know for sure that Meyers do well with it... with the caveat that if your Meyer is producing, you need to give it about 1.5 times what the label recommends.