well that depends on wheater u want to try growing fruit or not but its up to you, usually the meyer lemon will drop what it can support on its own. that said u can pick the fruit off after they set and leave the branch or u can snip back the end of the branch to the closest leaf and this will promote ne flushes to grow from the spot, completly up to u and what you want. if you would like to try and leave a fruit or two on for the fun of it thats up to you as well.
thats about all i can say without a picture and some additional info like weather the tree is potted or in the ground, what its potted in, watering and fertalizing schedual and your locationé plant location in the yard.
cheers
chris

Howdy,

Canadianplant..isn't it a difficult decision removing opposed to allowing fruit to remain on a citrus tree? :)

I pretty much agree with CLM.
A little more info and a photo would help.

There's a few things to consider. For instance, the age of your citrus tree.
If it's bloomed/fruit before, I wouldn't worry about cutting fruit...unless they get so heavy your tree falls daily.

Many people suggest removing first fruit, 'on a young tree,' for future production. It's said, if first fruits are cut, the second, third, etc, will double and/or tripple productivity.

I don't know if it's fact or fiction.

When my citrus were purchased, each were at the minimum, 1.5 years-old. They fruited before, so I didn't bother removing fruit at young or adult stage.

Whichever decision you make, I wish you luck, Toni

I can answer a few question in one shot: Im in northern Ontario, so not outside year round, not in the ground. I only got it in the spring, and I would assume its 1-2 years old grafted (cant tell you what its grafted too). The medium is loose, yet holds water well and still drains. I have not done a thing to it besides a light seaweed fert twice, and an initial spray of soapy water to get rid of any bugs. We have had enough rain that I have not even had to water it much.

Temps are about 24C for the highs and 12C lows on average this year, also right on average for the city. Above average rainfall though almost double the average.

It gets about 8-12 hours of sun. Its on the patio and the pot gets somewhat shaded so i dont cook the roots, yet it will still gbenefit from the stone i guess. I did put it out a bit early and it dropped some leaves as youll see in the pic. It since hasnt stopped going.

One of the clusters

Hi Canadianplant,

Second attempt posting. Sheesh!

Is 24C normal highs in summer? Does it ever get warmer?

Reason I ask, there's a guy, GW Palm Forum who lives in Canada. He has in-ground palms. In other words, palms outdoors, planted in his garden, year round.
Another GW member, also in Canada has a succulent garden. He too over-winters plants outdoors.

You fertilized with seaweed? Your citrus is doing great. Is seaweed high in N, nitrogen?
Seaweed is sold online, but I've never bought a bag. Does bagged seaweed resemble seaweed in lakes? lol.

Your fruit look very healthy, sturdy. Leaves, nice and green.

Regarding sun. Citrus are sun-lovers. However, if bricks are in direct sun, they get super hot. Is that the reason you're woried roots may burn?

My citrus are on the sidewalk in summer..'cement.' Hot cement doesn't seem to bother roots.
Do you have a little stand to place elsewhere? An area that gets direct sun?

However, your lemon is doing fantastic, so technically there's no need to relocate. Toni

24C is the average high. The record high in july and august is 40C. Usually see temps go from 20C - 32C in summer. Hotter near a south wall or stone etc.

I know quite a few people who grow palms in canada, in S ontario, monreal and Nova scotia. They (me included) grow musa basjoo as well (hardy banana). I grow bamboo and im close to Winnipeg. Its harder to push boundries up here.

Yes, seaweed fertilizer. I bought it from richters, but gow organic sells it as well. Im not sure if the lake kelp works, but this is apparently full of nitrogen, but the big bonus are all the micronutrients that come with it. Ive used it on trees, tomatoes, grapes, rhododendron, bamboo... everything. You can use it as a foliar feed, or directly in the roots.

It gets sun fro 8 or 9 am to around 6 pm, maybe longer if it is in a different spot, but the pot is relatively shaded at least on the south side. I know they like warm soil, but a dark pot on the sun could bake any roots if too warm!

Im just worried that the tree is too small to support such a large crop. i know many fruit trees end up bearing way later and less for a few years due to heavy crops when small/young.

thanks for the advice so far!!

that size is the perfect size for thinning fruit. For that size Meyer I would not leave more than 2 or 3 spaced around the plant; if you leave more, the tree will "forget" to grow. Most citrus will self thin, dropping what the tree cannot support; a mature Meyer will likewise do a pretty good job of self thinning... a tree like yours will not. I also notice your tree is a bit leggy, indicating it probably needs added light when indoors.
Please don't move it again; Meyers are so sensitive to light change which is what caused your earlier leaf drop. When you are ready to move it back inside, move it from its current spot to partial sun; after two weeks, move it to full shade; and after 2 more weeks to inside. If you do that and reverse the process in the Spring, you should avoid the leaf drop. The amount of sun your tree is getting now is adequate.

Thanks Johnmerr

You confirmed that I was thinking. I wouldnt mind keeping one or 2 lemons, but there is maybe 2 more months it will be outside, so I need it to grow.

I do agree it had a bit too little light inside. Late spring backed too many things to mention. I am personally more concerned about its spreading growth rather then vertical.

Thanks again

The Meyer, by nature is more of a bush than a "tree"; if mine grow a little too much laterally for my taste, I just nip them back to the first leaf that will produce an upward shoot.

EXcellent, thanks agan!