Okay, a few comments: I would use pot feet and place the pots on pavers. I would not risk having your pots sit in water. You'd have to make sure the bottom of the pots are raised higher than the top lip of the saucer to assure that water is not able to collect and cause a puddling inside the bottom of your pots. Grass rarely will migrate up the hole of a pot, so, it may be that you could just set the pots directly on the grass. Or, simply remove the grass from under the pots, and then mulch the bare ground, and put your pots on top of that. I think the saucer set up is rather complicated and could pose problems.

Secondly, pebbles or rocks at the bottom of a pot does not promote drainage, common misconception. And, your potting mix is very heavy. I would not be inclined to use manure in a container, just too hot. You're better off creating a modified version of 511 or Gritty mix or simply using the Gritty or 511 mix straight. if your trees will be outside, and if you live in a drier climate. I'm not familiar with your climate and rainfall (winter or summer, how much, etc.) Mulch is fine, especially if your climate tends to be dry, but with this very heavy potting mix, you may find that you're retaining too much water, and your roots may start to suffocate.

Treating CLM is a preventative treatment. If you see CLM, it's too late. Hort Oils probably will not do much good. Instead, note when you first discovered CLM, then start treating next season about 2 weeks prior to CLM showing up in your area. Your choice of multiple Spinosad sprayings (organic, every 3 weeks, 6 appications maximum done in the evening to avoid bees), or, a twice a year application of systemic Imidacloprid (non-organic, but rather benign as non-organic insecticides go, and easier to apply).

Watering - no, it's not okay to have the water hit the trunks. I would change your drip heads. Instead, use two 180 heads placed right next to the trunk, opposite of each other, pointing away from the tree trunk, sprinkling towards the edge of the pot.

Patty S.

Patty hit everything head on..I wanted to help earlier but she did a wonderful job of explaining and helping you.

Mike..)

Ok thanks for that folks.
No need to worry about the saucers reaching the bottom of the pot - you cant see it because of the wrapping but the pots are definitely raised in the saucer and theres no chance of the water reaching the pot.

Soil wise, i used Debco Citrus Mix. My only reason is im not at all within a convenient range to somewhere i can get the makeup of 511. Ill see what i can do about it though.
Assuming i can get hold of the mix, should I repot asap or let them go through their spring flush that has already started - indeed ive already got new growth coming up on Mr Lemonade! Mandarin is proving a slow grower but has a couple tiny leaves appearing. Mandarin also had the least established looking roots in the pot it arrived in.

Noted on pebbles not helping drainage, though they are a double intention - hopefully they will help stabilise the pot in wind when they get bigger.

Watering - ok ill see if i can get a pair of smaller sprayers for each pot - the ones i have its hard to get them to keep the water in the pot at a low pressure, so ill see if there is a size smaller!

On my climate: Its a rather dry climate on east coast australia, most of our wind comes across the country. We either get heaps of rain, usually in summer, or no rain at all. Its humid here year round. Summer is usually 30-35c days on average but 45c+ in the shade isnt unheard of (i make sure all my plants get a drink before the sun comes up on those days!). We do get relatively cold winters, 5-10c, extremely rare below zero, but no 'frosts' as such.

Thanks for your comments :).

Imidacloprid is neither benign nor harmless.
Already banned in much of Europe and restricted use in many other countries, the association with colony collapse disorder in bees is not idle speculation any more.
In commercial citrus groves, there is a withholding period of 20 weeks, for Bayer Confidor (Imidacloprid). For a systemic that is a very long time. CLM is largely cosmetic on mature trees. In your case go with the pest oil sprays interchanging carefully with spinosad late in the day.

Swapped over to 4 drippers. Seems to work good enough, tested moisture levels at a few points of the pot, all about even an hour after water.
Managed to find a local-ish source of 511, and ill repot end of next winter before the spring flush :).

Won't be using Imidacloprid as I don't think ill need it, plus there is a bee farm near me and I get tonnes of bees pollinating stuff for me.

Thanks for the tips folks!

Swapped over to 4 drippers. Seems to work good enough, tested moisture levels at a few points of the pot, all about even an hour after water.
Managed to find a local-ish source of 511, and ill repot end of next winter before the spring flush :).

Won't be using Imidacloprid as I don't think ill need it, plus there is a bee farm near me and I get tonnes of bees pollinating stuff for me.

Thanks for the tips folks!

{{!gwi}}

^^ not sure why i got a double post a minute later minus a photo there, but whatever :D.