Here is the additional picture.

Citrus Leafminer. Ugly but mostly harmless and just cosmetic. Really, it's too late to treat this year, and the little moth has laid its eggs and the larvae have done their damage. You can try to treat if you'd like. Search our forum for Citrus Leafminer (or CLM) and you'll see a WHOLE bunch of posts about the 2 treatment options. And, a link for you as well.

Patty S.

Here is a link that might be useful: UC IPM Pest Notes: Citrus Leafminer

try Spinosad.

next summer when you first see signs of CLM on the new leaves, spray. they only attack the tender new leaves.

Thanks so much for guys. I have had citrus trees for 15 years and this year was the first year to get this problem. Do you think I can just cut those infected leaves off? probably, spray with alcohol mixed with soapy water. Will it help? I am trying to do organically because we have young children at home. Please advise.

Spinosad is organic. The leaves that have been attacked by the citrus leaf miner are still working as in they still absorb sunlight and help to provide nutrients for your tree on a cellular level so I would not cut them off. They are just a little ugly. Spraying with alcohol and soapy water will not help, the damage is done. You need to treat with the spinosad next year if you don't want CLM again.
Evan

Nattayam, the larvae of the moth has made its way out of the leaf by now, so removing the leaves would not do anything to stop the infestation. What you need to do for next year, is start spraying with Spinosad the week prior to when you first started seeing the damage occur this year. Then, you should spray every 3 weeks for 6 applications. If your temps stay below 85 degrees, you can add a hort oil (Volck, Neem) to help the Spinosad to stick better and stay on longer. Be sure to spray the undersides of your leaves. Or, if you prefer a systemic (but non-organic) option, Bayer Advanced Fruit & Vegetable Insect Control (Imidacloprid) can be applied about 2 weeks prior to seeing the infestation in your area. Apply every 6 months. It takes a couple of weeks for the product to make its way up to the leaves, but one application should provide protection throughout the infestation season for you. Imidacloprid is pretty low on the toxic scale of insecticides, but if you prefer to stay completely organic, then Spinosad would be the way to go, it's just more work. And, you need to try to spray when you don't have blossoms, as it is toxic to honeybees. If you do have blossoms, spray in the evening, after the bees have gone back to the hive, so it has time to dry, and will minimize its effect on honeybees. It is a miracle you've dodged this annoying little moth until now. It is VERY prevalent in California.

Patty S.