I thought you had to remove any leaves on the scion and wrap it entirely top to bottom with Parafilm.

Otherwise the scion will dry out and die. Or maybe you just photographed an intermediate step?

Well I always heard you left one I took all off but one hist first try lol. Don't know a lot about it. I sealed it completely with grafting wax most reserch i looked up on line said nothing about removing all leafs. But rather make sure its sealed well so we will see thanks for input all is welcome.
Trace

This post was edited by Tcamp30144 on Mon, Sep 22, 14 at 1:03

I give you credit for even trying...I always thought it impossible to graft anything unless I went to school for it..

I hope it works)

Both the scion and the host look a little too young in my inexperienced opinion. Also, purely anecdotal, but I've had the best success with bark grafts where the bark is slipping easily. I've tried cleft, chip, bark, and whip, and the bark just seems to have a higher percentage of success.

I am curious how this works out, though, so please update!!

Thanks all it seams to be doing well no wilt no yellowing perked up since grafted. Will keep you all posted.
Trace

T-bud is the easiest way to graft citus. all leafs are normally clipped off. On cleft grafting it is best to wrap the complete scion with parafilm.

It might work if you were to tie a large baggy around the entire graft (and keep it out of strong sun). This would maintain the needed humidity keeping the scion alive. This is done in camellia grafting.

I will but it fully sealed with grafting wax I will try baggy.
Trace

I took leaf off per everyone advise still look green we will see. If not no big deal (we trim the branch and never speak of this again lmao).
Trace

FAILED. Hey but I tried will try again sometime just fun.
Trace

Next time try T-budding; it is the easiest and most successful for citrus. Even I can do it with about 40-50% success rate; my nursery guru gets virtually 100%.

But do you know why it failed? Most likely it dried out.

I think it needed to be wrapped -- its entire length -- with grafting tape or covered air-tight with a baggy of some kind, to keep it from drying out.

I agree with Dave, it failed because a citrus graft must be wrapped always, entire length! not only the graft.
Citrus are not apples, they never are completely dormant, since they are active, they need and lose water continuously. So, you must wrap the scion with a waterproof material (parafilm the best, or polyethylene strip, covered with a plastic bag, etc..) until the graft take and the scion can receive sap from the rootstock (10 to 15 days minimum, usually three weeks).
In any case, you have not to be in a hurry to unwrap the scion.

Here is a link that might be useful: citrus bark graft

This post was edited by axier on Fri, Oct 10, 14 at 12:43

Yep your all right thanks for advise, I love to experiment even if it doesn't go the way u planned. All of us liveing in zone 7b or higher experiment everyday by keeping citrus alive ( specially in the winter). its all fun I will try again later when the rootstock tree gets a little bigger.
Trace

I have a ton of P. trifoliata seedlings I'm itching to graft things to. I have a Satsuma as well as numerous hardier varieties (citrange, citrangquat, etc). You've got me itching to graft, but I'll wait until next year.

Try wrapping the exposed portion with parafilm M.