"Washin every leaves on every tree By hand twice a week is a pain"

Ir is amazing how much can be done by hand. I use the same method of insect control for 2/3 or more of my insect control. If you think the larva are still inside the leaves you might want to destroy those leave to stop them dead in their tracks. The tree wont miss a few leaves and the other leaves will never know to thank you.

Steve

Tracy, how do you know they are Leaf Minors?

Can you show a pic of the actuall bug or a better close-up damaged leaf more in focus? I find that hard to believe too...

MIke

They're leaf miners but why oh why are you doing this, Trace!?! Just treat the tree for goodness' sake. Certainly you must have better things to do than to wash the leaves, which will not stop the infestation. Treat it appropriately, and you'll have your time back. :-)

Patty S.

This post was edited by hoosierquilt on Thu, Oct 2, 14 at 22:04

I also treated the trees washing was to get any eggs off that where there. As for close up of leafs i had this one leaf the rest I removed afected leafs. There where only 3 leafs on my 30 something trees that had them. Hopefully I got it in time So it doesnt become something huge.But mike IM 100% sure its leaf miners the tell tell mazes in the leafs.
Trace

This post was edited by Tcamp30144 on Fri, Oct 3, 14 at 4:50

Don't pull off the leaves! My goodness. Trace. Darling. Let's do a little CLM 101 for you: There is absolutely no reason to remove the leaves. Once the larvae tunnels out, it's gone. You're going to defoliate your tree for no reason. You didn't "get it in time", the tiny moth is all over the place, and will come back and lay more eggs on your citrus trees. The tiny moth will lay eggs on the most tender new leaves, as the larvae can only penetrate the more tender leaves, so your more mature, hardened off leaves will not be affected. Please spray your tree with Spinosad (and you can add a hort oil like Neem or Volck to help it stick better, if your temps do not exceed 85 degrees). Take care to spray under the leaves well. And, if you have blossoms on your trees, avoid the blossoms if possible, and only spray in the evening, when the bees have gone back home. This gives the Spinosad time to dry, and not affect your honey bees. Spray now, and again in 3 weeks. That should take you through to the end of the season. Then, next spring, start the spraying cycle about a week prior to CLM showing up in your area (check with your local ag agent for those dates). And, you can stop doing all the washing, and defoliating. This will take care of CLM for you. If you do not want to go to this trouble, and don't mind using a systemic insecticide, then you can use Bayer Advanced Fruit Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control. Apply two weeks prior to the first CLM infestation dates, then apply again, in 6 months. That will cover you for the entire year. If your trees are not producing, no worry about ingesting any possible residual.

Patty S.

I know but its ugly lol I know not to but its to hard not too pic them.I'm not going crazy I just took off 3to 5 leafs lol. But thank u Patty for heads up. I sprayed Spinosad today and will again in 3 weeks thank patty. Its just so so so hard not to pick off the ugly leafs lol.
Trace

This post was edited by Tcamp30144 on Sat, Oct 4, 14 at 0:23

Very strange they left as fast as they came I'm happy there gone.
Trace

There may well be a later invasion; keep a watch for them, so that next year you will know when the second infestation will come; and you can apply preventative measures.

Bummer Trace - - - but do leave the leaves be!

Well, I got them too. Hit me again this year even though i applied 2x the recommended dosage of Imidacloprid [Bayer Advanced] and sprayed with Spinosad-Neem mixture every 3 weeks.

I think the recommendations are too low. I reapplied a double dose on select trees and they resisted further attack. Others that did not get my test double dose did ok for a short time after the S-N mix spray, but got hit 2 weeks later. 3 weeks is too long an interval for the S-N spray.

My plan next year its double-triple dose Imidacloprid in mid July and again double in mid/late August. If i get a chance to spray during the heat (most days are over 85F), then its a 2 week interval or any chance i get.

I hate those CLM's

BTW: Imidacloprid granules [for lawns] are available at irrigation supply houses/distributors and its much less expensive than the liquid mixes [Bayer].

I never get them on the first flush in the spring, and only on young plants , once the plants get more mature , you won't have to worry about them. I seldom see citrus leaf miners on mature trees- although I visited a friends place a couple years back and he grows a LOT of citrus in greenhouses with many somewhat mature plants and most of his were ate up with them- worst infestation I ever saw.

Its the rest of the flushes that are usually vulnerable to the leaf miners , especially late summer and fall.

Key is to spray with spinosad when the new flush is maybe about 3/4 to one inch long

Thanks Dawgone - i will likley spray this evening as tomorrow is to top out at 85F here in Danville. A challenge is that most days are over 85F and the few that are not... i may not be in town.

Another, greater challenge that i have had this year is the spring flush was largely just a recovery from freeze shock; with only partial refoliation. That put a great deal of pressure on keeping the mid/late flushes intact. It was a delicate balancing between drought influenced watering and heavy feeding.

BTW: does anyone know if those CLM's are drawn to black-lit traps? Or perhaps tried scented lighted traps? I have multiple ISCA attrantant traps all round the property and the are full of the moths!

- George

Dawgone, not quilte true. Any tree - mature or not - is susceptible to CLM if they have a flush of new tender leaves timed for CLM appearance. So, it has more to do with when your trees have a flush and when CLM appears in your area. For me here in S. California, I do not see CLM until about July. So, I treat with Bayer in mid to late June, then again, 6 months later. I prefer not to use a systemic, and try to stay organic as much as possible, but the reason I treat with Imidacloprid systemic is due to the Asian Citrus Psyllid out there. We have not spotted in my area, but it has been spotted about 12 miles from me (Valley Center), so, it's just a matter of time for all of us in San Diego county. Two doses hopefully will cover me for both CLM and the ACP.

Patty S.

Hi Patty,

What doses of Imidacloprid do you use? Thanks.

-Brett

Well patty -- thats just your experience-- thats fine for you. Most folks who have been growing citrus for years will tell you just what I said-- check with your pals on the citrus forum. I literally walk thru many groves each year and look at THOUSANDS-- not dozens or hundreds but THOUSANDS of mature citrus trees and seldom see any CLM damage , but most dooryard growers who don't take care of their plants( sometimes cause of ignorance) have CLM damage till their trees mature and then very seldom have any damage. My neighbor never has taken much care of his plants and the first few years after he got them he was constantly crying about the CLM-- his plants are much older now and he has stopped whining

I use to put up a few traps but never got many. Most of my plants are mature now so I never spray / waste any spinosad on them.

Good luck George

Thanks all I will do many preventive measure to keep them away theyare still gone no signs of them. I used Bayer to and will continue to. I feel the nite it got down to 41 killed them or made them run away. Whatever's the case there gone.
Thank God

This post was edited by Tcamp30144 on Thu, Oct 9, 14 at 20:10