I can't really comment on how to prune a satsuma, but I enjoyed the video. I bought two satsuma trees this spring but have never had a satsuma before. I love mandarins in general so I'm sure I'll like them if i can ever coax fruit out of them in my climate. I'm always looking for more info on them so thanks for sharing.

I have a satsuma for about 20 years, and only prune back wayward shoots. I do keep the branches from touching the ground. If you have branches crossing and rubbing,( not usually a problem), I would prune to eliminate. Al

My preferance is to not let the side branches come out below 24 to 30 inches from the soil line. When pruning leave a bud on the top side of the branch. That bud will grow up.

Looked to me like most of the pruning done was to open up the interior of the trees to more air and sunlight, by thinning out excess branches and leaves along the larger branches all the way down into the center of the trees. But they also leave enough new growth to get lots of flowers. How one decides the ratio of what to leave and what to cut is the rub, and I guess that's up to years of experience and observation of the results. That part I'm not as confident on. Since the fruit comes on the new growth, if you take too much you get less fruit, leave too much and the fruit doesn't get enough sunlight.
But watching them work kinda helped see what they were cutting and what they were leaving, plus noticing how the finished trees looked compared to the ones not pruned yet helped too.

I'm sure also if we kept detailed records of what we did each year, like the farmers do, it would help as well. Personally I'm really lax about keeping records.

Anyway, it was a really interesting video, thanks for sharing!

I found this article that has some more information on pruning and the timing of pruning. Timing probably would be adjusted to your own areas's weather I guess.

Here is a link that might be useful: Plain Gardening: Satsuma secrets

Barb, Thanks for input and providing reference website on Satsuma. If you liked that video, there's a lot more on that series on YouTube. The one that I also liked was a similar type of video on "persimmons".

I agree! The workers appear to be reducing the density of the foliage on the trees. I assess that their reasons are two-fold. One to promote more sunlight into their trees and fruits. This was discussed in more detail when the workers laid white matting in the grove to prevent water being absorbed by the soil, and promote sunlight being reflected into the trees. The second reason for pruning/culling would be to redirect the energy of the trees into selective and fewer branches, and fewer fruits. The rational for culling of the fruits was briefly covered in an earlier part of the video.

However, the video never discusses the rational, theory, and/or criteria used for the culling and pruning of the trees. I understand, this would be beyond the scope and interest of the intended audience of the audience of this program.

I also found the section covering the Dekopan mandarin very interesting. Mainly because, I've been looking to purchase a a tree, but can't find any locally, or any Mainland vendor that can or will ship to HI. Anyway, In the video, I noticed a sales display of their prime Dekopan was priced at 1,000 Yen per fruit. That's about $10, @ ÃÂ¥100:$1 exchange rate. That caught my eye, because in March, I payed over $10 for 3 Sumo (aka: Dekopan grown in California) purchased from Safeway at $3.85/lb...pricey but delicious.

Lastly, an update on my Owari Satsuma tree: Yesterday, I noticed that new growth sprouting from the base of the top most leaves of the branches that I had just pruned about a week ago (see: attached photo). This is very interesting, and possibly an "aha" moment for me. As, my tree was in process of sprouting new growths on branch tips when I pruned them. Now, it appears that the sprouting efforts have been redirected to producing new sub-branches. Also, when pruning I made the cuts next to an upward facing leaves as recommended by references on pruning. Not sure where I go from here. Think, I'll need to play by ear.

Aloha, Gadget

That growth is fairly typical of the effects of tip-pruning on many plants. The growth hormone in tree-like plants can be imagined as traffic on road; on a freeway (a major or straight branch) the traffic (growth hormone) will go the way of least resistance, aka straight ahead. If a barrier is put up across the freeway, there is no choice for the traffic but to exit the side streets and continue from there. That's what happens when we prune the tip of fast growing branches. We re-direct this growth hormone, (which typically is drawn towards the terminal cells at the end of the branches) to the side branches and so re-directs the growth of the tree.
Unless re-directed, the growth of a tree (shrub, etc) is always going to go to those branch end terminal buds. We are the traffic cops of the tree and re-direct that growth to where we want it to go by pruning and so bend it to our will. That's pretty much the how and why of pruning in a nutshell. But adjusting that theory to each species growth habit is the experience.

Because I'm not familiar with so many varieties of plants growth habits, I love seeing how others prune various plants;I increase my knowledge. Great thread starter by the way, : )

Barb, Great point, and good analogy.

Question: When is the best time to prune your citrus tree?

Many of the literature recommends pruning the tree during it's period of dormancy. I interpret this to mean you should prune when the plant is not putting out any new growth or buds. However, I don't agree. This may seem obvious to the most experienced of the citrus enthusiasts out there, but it just now became apparent to me that the best time to prune the tree is during the growing period. In particular, when the new shoots are starting to grow out, or in the active process of growing.

It appears that all the pruning functions described above could be best accomplished during this period. The tree would be in a state where it's actively pumping energy/hormones, as you described. This would be the best time to prune the tree based on desired criteria/goal. Examples of goals could be any combination of the following: letting in more sunlight, trimming off undesirable new growth (e.g.; downward facing shoots, shoots on main trunk, water shoots, crossing branches, etc.), thinning clusters, directing/redirecting growth, etc. This is also the period when the pruner will be get the most rapid visual feedback on results of the pruning/cuts made, as sited in my above Satsuma example.

As an example of a pruning effort that was lacking, I've attached a photo of my Seedless Kishu tree that I pruned several week earlier. The Kishu started out as a 2 feet high plant in a 5 gal pot. I estimate it was in pot for about 5 years. Within 15 months in-ground, the tree had grown to a height and width of about 7 feet. The branches had gotten long and willowy. So, I pruned it during it's dormancy period based on recommendation made in reference that I read. My only criteria was to shorten the skinny long branches to a point where the branched forked out. I did some significant trimming. The tree now stands about 5'x5'. Fruit production decreased from 30 fruits last year, to only one fruit this year. Wish, I knew more about pruning before I started on this tree.

I planted my Satsuma in the fall and now in February (Houston) it is starting to bud. I have what looks like two leaders (pic) growing at a small angle and believe I should eliminate one, as the tree could eventually split between them. If true, which one?

This is a city tree and will not get much sun. The wall in the background is to the east, so the tree will not get sun until noon and even then only for 4-5 hours. There is room to the right maybe for espalier. I am not expecting bushels and bushels, so any other pruning ideas will be appreciated.

puttster