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ncyasmin

Wintering Clivias - Redux

ncyasmin
17 years ago

Hello, everyone! Pretty new to GW and to this forum and am so happy to have it as a great resource! Thanks to all who contribute!

I've read all of the posts thus far (as well as some of the sites referenced) -- drooling over the photos, of course -- but have a few remaining questions regarding over-wintering Clivias. I just received 9 clivias and one clivia seedling that had been badly treated/abandoned for some time. I've repotted each in a variant of the recommended potting media (a mix of peat/bark/potting soil/perlite), cut off yellow/brown leaf tips and generally tidied them up, and wonder whether the low light/cool temps rule would still apply in their case. I feel like these poor things can benefit from some TLC (some bright light, a little fertilizer, and a drink now and then) but I surely don't want to kill them with kindness. Thoughts? And, how cool is cool? I have seen variations on the "cool" concept and have gotten it into my head that as long as it is above freezing (32 deg. F.) they'll be fine, but is 50s to 60s more appropriate during their winter nap? Finally, when I cut off some of the brown tips, they oozed a bit of green fluid... I guess that is normal (we'd all "ooze" if our extremeties were cut off!) but want to check.

Thank you all!

Comments (4)

  • craigr2006
    17 years ago

    Hi,

    Several good questions. Mature Clivias can tolerate a lot more than some smaller seedlings. Ideal growing conidtions include a temperature range between 50-55F and 85-90F. Of course, you need some light, fertilizer, and some moisutre also. My landcsape clivias have tolerated brief temps down to low 20's for a few days with some frost damage, but they rebounded quickly. They do well with some cleaning up. Too much water and direct summer sunlight can kill them. Other than that, ignorance is best. You can see how well your set did with neglect.

    As for how cool is cool. The theory is that a chill period is necessary to bloom. We aren't sure how long of a period, or how cold, but my dad's have always done well along the So Cal. coast outdoors. The temps there rarely get below mid 40's for very long in the winter. The 50's are probably ok. If your plants are blooming size, we generally hold off watering during Nov.-Feb., provided the Clivias are in a cooler area. Many of us also use a 0-10-10 fertilizer (Bloom Rite) to try and encourage blooms in Feb./March/April. Smaller plants need all the encouragement to grow until they have produced at least 12 leaves (this includes a few that might of been removed).
    Hopefully this helps.

    Craig
    Sacramento, CA

  • ncyasmin
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Craig! Thanks very much! This, as well as your post on the other wintering clivias thread are most useful. Indeed, if the "grown" ones survived despite neglect, doing the cool/less bright thing now is probably not a bad thing in the hopes that one or more might bloom come spring. One actually came with a seed pod on it so it obviously previously bloomed, and several others appear to have grown their 12 or more leaves, although not all are there now or intact. I will, however, baby the baby a bit with brighter conditions, more consistent watering (I did put it in a rather small pot that will dry out more quickly than others) and some fertilizer. Do I understand you correctly, then, that the seedling should get fertilizer with nitrogen for leaf production (perhaps a 20-20-20 at half strength once every couple of weeks) even during its fall/winter nap time?
    Thanks for your good guidance!
    Yasmin

  • craigr2006
    17 years ago

    Hi Yasmin,

    The seedlings (and mature plants) will only go dormant if the light duration decreases and the temps drop. If you have them indoors or on heat mats with brighter lights, they will just keep going regardless of season. This is beneficial if you are trying to get to the 12 leave point in 3-4 years instead of 4-6 years. If the seedlngs are in the same environment as the larger plants, then treat them all the same. Bacteria and fungi don't take a holiday, so they can overwhelm a dormant plant if there is too much water around. Good luck.

    Craig
    Sacramento, CA
    50's and turning cloudy

  • ncyasmin
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Thanks, Craig! So, no nap for them! I'll keep a special eye out for the b & f!

    Brrrr... it's dipped well below freezing here the last few nights and daytime temps are not much better! Not usual for coastal Carolina but we're promised middle 50s to 60 today! I sure hope so!

    Yasmin

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