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becky_4_wisconsin

Starting an organic community garden

A group of Master Gardeners in our community is trying to start up a CG. After considering several sites, the best one in terms of meeting all our criteria is a site at(=over) a city well, so the city wants no chemicals used. Currently the site is grass, which has been mowed in the summers. Right now it's frozen, and we really want to get this garden up and running this spring. What advice do you have for killing the sod this spring, (I'd have suggested hitting it once with Round-up, but I don't think that's going to be an option) or any other thoughts on organic CG's?

Comments (12)

  • rene
    24 years ago

    We do it the old fashion way.. we dig it out. Using a screen to break up the soil. What about sod cutters? Iwould stay away from round up.. besides it only kills broad leaf plants.

    Good luck -
    Rene

  • bruce the sneaky - ice and snow
    24 years ago

    Stay away from roundup since it runs down to the water table rapidly. You may want to consider setting raised beds directly over the sod in a fashion after 'interbay' or 'lasagna' gardening methods.

  • Gwenne Hayes-stewart
    24 years ago

    Raised beds are the way to go. You can build 4x16 foot beds assigned to each gardener/family. Some of our gardens put down thick pads of newspapers and cover those with chips between the beds. Fussier gardens like the lawn look between the beds and keep the paths and edges mowed and trimmed Gwenne

  • George Griffin - 5
    24 years ago

    Use no chemistry of any kind. I would recommend double digging. take the sod that is there and put it on plastic sheets and dig down put it ( the sod only ) in the botton of the digging and top up with the other earth with ammendments.
    This is a more laborsome method but has the best long term returns.

  • Cynthia Salyers
    24 years ago

    I am currently compiling information on beginning a community garden in my area. I was hoping that you might share any information that you feel may be useful to me. I have been working on a proposal for my county that would explain the positive effects of a community garden. I would like to be sure that all of my ducks are in a row before I proceed. ANYTHING that you might share is appreciated.

    Sincerely,
    Cindy

  • Lenore Picray
    24 years ago

    We have started a community gargen in Bonnyville, Alberta, Canada. We used raised beds in our garden, and I think it was the only was to go(4X12). We started with a lot in town that was previously grass. They did use round-up to kill the grass for us before we took over. I think if I were to do it again, I wouldn't have had them kill the grass. I would have had them just take the grass out were we were to gave our raised beds. The bigest problem was the weeds that grew around the beds. It would have been much easier to mow the grass around the beds. The beds worked well, as the soil in the garden was mostly clay. Using the beds we were able to haul manure, top soil and a little sand- and mix the soil in the beds only. It would have been a great cost to haul manure and top soil to make the entire garden better quality soil. We also used landscaping material around our tomato plants-this kept the weeds completly down. We also used a really cool idea on how to keep your tomatoes watered. This sounds crazy, but really works!! Dig your hole for your plant, then put in the hole a new diaper(just use the inside part of the diaper-toss out the plastic outside)we also tossed in some corn cobs(after you have eaten the corn)into the hole. This acted as a nautal fertilizer. We then placed our plant in to hole. When you water the plant, the diaper soaks up the water and keeps it at your plants roots and it won't dry out. We had such a great crop of tomatoes with little care!!! I can't remember were I got this tip, but I remember he also suggested to use a coffee can with both ends taken off, then put this next to your plant. You need to push it down about into the soil, the pour the water into it. So you are filling the coffee tin with water, and it will soak the area and the diaper will trap it down at the roots. It really works!!! The biggest advice I can suggest is to collect a small membership fee,just so that people have the incentive to keep their bed weeded and looking nice. If they have done their share over the season, refund them a part/all of the membership. We were told to do this, and didn't. What a mistake!!! I was stuck with most of the work, as some of the members just planted their garden and never showed up to weed it!! It really takes the fun out of it. I had to keep the garden looking decent, as it was a lot in town and couldn't be an eye-sore. I had great response from local business and seed catologes for donations. We are going to have a graden this year-but we will be chargeing a membership fee!!

    Good Luck

    Lenore Picray

  • Unca_Ray
    21 years ago

    City soil over a well head is likely to be fill mixed with rubble, and may already be contaminated. I recommend no digging. If you want to get rid of the turf then solarize it for a month or two under plastic. Or you can just build raised beds directly on top of the turf and fill them with compost, and keep the grass mowed between the beds.

  • JAYK
    21 years ago

    There are many ways to establish this garden in question, but to set the record straight on Roundup: "besides it only kills broad leaf plants." Roundup will kill both broadleaf plants and grasses. And "Stay away from roundup since it runs down to the water table rapidly" Patently and demonstrably untrue. Some pesticides have this proclivity, but Roundup is not one of them.

  • Nelz
    21 years ago

    The Round-Up question should be dead here. It is a non-issue. As I read the original post, the city said no chems, RU is a chem, so no RU.

    What about lasagna gardening (check out the book by the same name) to build the beds? Gwenne's comment on raised beds is truly the best way to go. First I think raised beds make the best veggie gardens, and assigning a family or group, or club member a bed or 1/2 bed makes it easy to keep organized.

    You could start loading up with organic matter now. Something would happen overwinter, I think. If nothing else the grass would be covered and your bed materials would start breaking down as soon as it started warming up. Which for you is probably July (TIC)?

    Or get a big pile of organic matter building up over winter, then till the sod, and build beds above that, and the beds will keep the grass down. I am a no-till gardener, but starting in spring requires a few shortcuts.

    Good luck,
    Ken

  • lisa22951
    21 years ago

    Hello Becky, I know you posted this ages ago, but I'll try you anyway. The email I sent your listed address came back to me. Are you anywhere near La Crosse, Wi? Please email me if you read this. Thanks! Lisa

  • Blarney
    20 years ago

    I put down plastic over the crabgrass or quackgrass, wait a year and then double dig. Its very easy to dig after the first year, no roots, and you can reuse the plastic.

  • trisha_51
    20 years ago

    Did you get the CG up and going back in the spring of 2000? I'm looking forward to joining one in my area this spring in our park district. They have had one there the last 3 years, no running water, which will be OK. Just happened across your posting here and wondered about your project.

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