Will, I'm a big Japanese maple fan too. I would love to see some pictures of your maples and other companion plants.

Dan

Will heres an old thread with same subject matter.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: ccp

In addition to all those you name, I think the grasses (miscanthus, penisetum, etc.) also compliment conifers nicely, especially for added winter interest. Bluespruce's pictures are a perfect illustration. Adrian Bloom's Gardening with Conifers also has a very cool picture of Japanese Blood Grass winding through a large conifer bed like a river.

Perennial geraniums also make a nice, low maintenance groundcover with a nice little punch of color in the summer months. The purple flowers near any yellow conifer or japanese maple really add a WOW factor.

In partial shade, I also like to mix in Hosta, Siberian Iris, and Ferns with Conifers and Japanese Maple.

Will, if you haven't done so already, search back in the GW for Dan's garden pictures. His garden is the perfect orchestration of conifers and companions, IMHO.

Kim

One of my favorite Conifer/Maple & friends pics:

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On the other hand the Japanese maple - a woodland tree - and the cranesbill - a rather tall and open-growing meadow flower - could be seen as out of character with the subalpine-looking dwarf conifers and rock garden rock work. Woodland gardening does fall under the heading of rock gardening but there is a tendency to place the taller woodland plants in different locations than the alpine plants (including dwarf and slow-growing conifers). A naturalistic arrangement would be to have a rock garden edged or backed by taller plants, as one often sees in nature - where the conifer forest gives way to alpine meadows or a low elevation bedrock outcropping, with soil too shallow for trees erupts from a woodland or forest.

Great image Kim.

Autumn Moon for sure - there's nothing else like it - and an ESSENTIAL tree for any gardener who can grow it.

The conifer looks like tsuga canadensis?

Here are a few images I can share.

Acer Japonica 'Aconitifolium' & Picea pungens 'Bakeri'. Don't adjust your monitor, those are normal fall colors.
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How Aconitifolium colored in part shade.
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Acer Palmatum 'Shishigashira' - trans. Lions Head maple.
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Acer Palmatum 'Kotohime' - you can't see that landscaping fabric at all, nope, it's not even there!
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Acer Palmatum 'Iijima sunago' - Fall colors, this tree has been in the yard some 15+ years without pruning. 5-6' tall.
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Most of my shots will come in the years to come. My garden is very new but I am going to be experimenting with all kinds of combos, reds and blues and oranges and yellows. It should be a lot of fun and quite beautiful along the way.

Will

Darn, forgot to add my 'Autumn Moon' specimen. This was shot in mid-June. This tree has stunning color all three seasons.
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Also Acer Palmatum 'Otome Zakura' - also mid summer shot. Remained hues of rose/red all the way into fall.
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I really like those Maples... those red colours are lacking in our garden.So far no-one has answered my queries about sun/heat resistance or soil requirements.We have those 3 month summer heatwaves and slightly alcaline soil (ph 7.2 at the latest measurement). T.

T, I think most Japanese maples are ok in 80s and 90s as long as they get plenty of water during that time and some shade. I've found most Japanese maples do just fine(and color GREAT) in 2-4 hours of sun. This makes the North side of the house a great spot, but also any shady nook where other plants won't do so hot.

There are only a handful of Japanese maples that do well in full sun and 90s all summer(guess that's about 30' celcius). If you regularly see 35+ celcius they may not make it. The big key is shade.

Woodland understorey tree but from Southeast Asia where unless they all grow wild up in cool mountain sites summers will be quite hot and humid.

Thanks Will and bboy. I think I have the N.E. side of our house reserved for a few jap. maples and also Tsuga canadensis cv's.Morning sun/afternoon shade. T.

Of course I will vouch for Fire in his recommendation of Japanese Maples!! A stunning combination with conifers. I would add that Dogwoods, especially Corus florida cultivars, look exceptional with conifers. They have a natural "layered" look that contrasts beautifully with the generally upright forms of most conifers. The flowers are spectacular against a backdrop of green or blue (put a C. florida 'Cherokee Brave' with pink flowers in front of P. pungens 'Hoopsii' and you'll need sunglasses to look at it!) They're small trees, but have beautiful blooms in spring, nice leaves in summer, and good fall colors too. The bright red berries are a winter-time bonus and are relished by birds. There are several nice cultivars that are relatively dwarf or have variegated summer leaves which contrast nicely with conifer foliage.

Other plants I think look great with conifers are ferns, hostas, heuchera, mosses, grasses, Oakleaf Hydrangea, rhodo/azalea species and miniature daffodils. The latter are so perfectly adapted to rock gardens they really should be on everyone's list. There are a myriad of colors, shapes and sizes - I have one with flowers smaller than a dime. They add a punch of spring color without overpowering or competing with other plants. And they're completely deer and rabbit proof!

For ground covers, I like the variegated forms of Vinca minor. They have nice lavender flowers too! There are many small succulents that look terrific tucked in among the rocks and larger plants. Epimediums are also high on my list.

Since Fire posted a lot of fall pics, I'll post some of Japanese Maple leaves in spring. Enjoy. {{gwi:627466}}From Japanese Maple Spring Leaves

There's conifers in general garden settings and then there is dwarf and slow-growing conifers in the rock garden. The rock garden scene usually calls for a reduced scale.

Ya, my rock garden has only three Japanese maples, 'Sharps' Pymgy', 'Hupps Dwarf' and 'Aratama'. All three are about 5-6 years old and about 2' tall. They fit in just fine. Hupps dwarf in particular gets no larger then about 3'. The parent plant is still under 3' and I think it's over 25 years old.

Will and K4 - you both have some beautiful Japanese maples. Acer j. 'Acontifolium' has been on my want list for a while now, and Acer p. 'Tsuma Gaki' and Acer j. 'Takinogaw' have just been added to that list.

Bboy -- so sorry you don't approve of my gardening style. But then there's not much you do seem to like. Your never-ending negative comments, and total lack of any positive feedback, serve only to discourage individuals who would otherwise like to participate and contribute to this forum. I apologize to others for the tone of this post, but I've sat back and watched it without comment too long.

Kim

Will I like your choices of Japanese maples and have most of the ones you've mentioned and your pictures look great. 'Kamagata' and 'Yuri hime' are two other small A.p. favorites of mine.

Kim your 'Autumn Moon' is looking great. Since you have all of that understory area did you ever end up getting any Dogwoods?

Here's a picture of Cornus alternifolia 'Bachone' (Gold Bullion TM) from this Spring. It's a great smaller tree and is growing fast. This was a one gallon tree in Spring '07.
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Since there are already two nice 'Autumn Moon' pics. Here is a repeat picture of my Acer shirasawanum from this Spring.

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Dan

Tunilla,

Japanese Maples like a slightly acidic soil. A rich, sandy loam is ideal. Clay soils can be deadly to JMs - they don't like soggy roots - so if you have clay soils it is best to plant them in raised beds or mounds. JMs are not drought tolerant, so water must be provided during dry periods. A good layer of pine bark or pine straw mulch will help keep the soil moist and the roots cool. Be sure to keep the mulch 3 inches away from the trunk of the tree to discourage insects and diseases.

JMs love humidity but can burn in intense sun. In their native habitat they are understory trees. A few cultivars are more sun tolerant, but most appreciate some shade during the hottest parts of the day. Morning sun, afternoon shade is considered ideal. Here in hot, humid Tennessee I try to provide shade after 2PM. If I plant in an area that can't offer those conditions, I try to make sure they spend less than 3 hours in afternoon sun and have shade the rest of the day. Dappled shade from high trees is also ideal for most varieties, although a number of the variegated ones - some with almost all white or pink leaves - need mostly shade not to burn.

JMs are sensitive to salts in the soil and can suffer leaf-burn if given too much nitrogen fertilizer. Its best to fertilize with organic fertilizers that have a low nitrogen content. Some growers simply mulch in spring with a high quality compost or with worm castings. Others prefer a fish emulsion type fertilizer. If a chemical fertilizer is used, it should be used at half strength. Spring is the best time to ferilize - and never fertilize after mid-June. I would advise against the use of time-release fertilizers, as this can promote tender new growth late in the season. Many times this new growth will not harden off properly before cold weather sets in.

There are a number of species in the Series Palmata that are classified or sold under the moniker 'Japanese Maples'. Each species has many cultivars available in the trade. They are:

Acer palmatum - the most common species. 5-7 lobes, partially divided and serrated leaves. Huge variety of forms, leaf shapes, and colors.

Acer palmatum sub-species:

Acer palmatum ssp. 'Amoenum' - shallowly divided leaves with 5-7 lobes. No serrations, so the leaves have a "smooth" look.

Acer palmatum ssp. 'Matsumurae' - may be more deeply divided than 'Palmatum', sometimes all the way to the petiole.

Acer palmatum ssp. 'Dissectum' - deeply divided leaves which have lobes which are further deeply divided, providing a lacey effect. The trees almost always are weeping, pendulous, and form a shorter "mushroom-shaped" tree.

Acer palmatum ssp 'Linearilobum' - deeply divided leaves with extrelely long, ribbon-like lobes; some varieties have lobes no wider than a thread. Very unique, and one of my favorite groups.

The above are the true sub-species. There are two more informal classifications, 'Dwarfs' and 'Variegates/Reticulates'. Dwarfs in general get no larger than 6ft. (1.8 meters). There are a myriad of colors, shapes, and leaf textures. Variegates have white, cream, yellow, red, orange or pink markings in the leaves - sometimes in dramatic patterns or splashes. Some Variegates tend to "revert" back to all-green growth, which must be immediately pruned out. Growing them in poorer soils seems to delay this phenomenon. Reticulates have leaves with prominent veins in another color. These can be incredibly striking and unusual.

Other Japanese Maple Species are:

Acer japonicum - stout trees - some reaching 45 feet at maturity, others dwarf or semi-dwarf. In general, large leaves with 9 to 13 lobes. Dramatic flowers and seeds, and spectacular fall colors in golds, yellows, oranges, reds, and purples. This species is hardier than Acer palmatum.

Acer shirasawanum - similar to 'japonicum'. Leaves often orbicular with 9 to 13 lobes. Seeds are held above the stems, rather than hanging down - a tell-tale identifier. Acer s. 'Aureum' and Acer s. 'Autumn Moon' are legendary cultivars. 'Aureum' is an un-earthly gold-chartreuse color unlike any other tree. It is hard to grow and sensitive to heat. Mine is doing fine on the north side of the house. 'Autumn Moon' displays fall coloration all year long, and is a bit easier to grow.

Acer siebolianum - similar to shirasawanum, but hardier. Rare, and only a few cultivars.

Acer pseudosieboldianum - from Korea. The most cold-tolerant species. Ultra-rare.

Acer circinatum - actually a North American species, it is none the less directly related to the asian palmatums, and can easily hybridize with them. It is commonly lumped in with "Japanese Maples" by growers. 9-11 shallow lobed orbicular leaves. More drought tolerant than palmatums, but needs afternoon shade. Can be tricky, but worth it. A fantastic cultivar Acer c. 'Pacific Fire' has flaming red stems all year, and is a knock-out in winter.

For more information, the book 'Japanese Maples' by Vertrees is considered the gold standard on the subject. The best on-line resource is the University of British Columbia Botanical Gardens. See the link below to access their forum. Lots of pictures!

Best Regards,

K4

Here is a link that might be useful: UBC Botanical Gardens Forum

P.S. should have read Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum' on my post.

Dan

Dan,

Your garden is always such an inspiration! One of my favorite dwarfs is A.p. 'Murasaki kiyohime'. I believe you have a picture of that one in springtime, right? If so, would you mind posting it?

Thanks!

K4

My conifer collection - those that are not planted in containers - are scattered throughout what could best be called a mixed border: trees, shrubs, the conifers, perennials, grasses and vines. So my feeling on companion plants is that if it suits the same growing conditions and looks good in combination, then it's a valid and suitable companion! To be sure, most are dwarf or very slow growing selections so they won't easily get out of scale or overwhelm smaller plants but I especially like the structure, foliage texture and year round color they provide in my garden. And while I am a collector, I am also a generalist and don't focus necessarily on any particular plant type.

And there must be something in the appeal of conifers that also leads to the appeal of Asian maples, although they have nothing obvious in common :-) I don't know of too many conifer fans who don't share an interest in maples as well. And I certainly have my share of maples too!

Thanks K4, sure here it is. I'm thinking about moving it this coming Spring, but haven't decided for sure yet. I enjoyed reading through your post. It's a well-written synopsis on Asian maples.
Dan

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Fire,

My 'Sharps' is close to 10 years old and still only 2ft tall. Its a natural Bonsai if there ever was one.

Kim,

'Takinogawa' is my favorite!! I also love A.p. 'Kasagi yama'. It has black-red stems and red-salmon leaves with black veins. Totaly unique color in the garden.

Here's a couple more 'Takinogawa' pics, taken right after I bought it. {{gwi:627470}}Takinogawa

So I walked in to this conifer forum and it turned out it was a Japanese maple thread, now that's cool.

I am so eager for spring. The maples budding out with the conifers new growth starting be still my beating heart.

I've tried to get hooked on some other plants but so far no luck. Maples and conifers are really the only plants that have blown me away. I thought of dabbling in dogwoods but it just wasn't the same. And I'm not sure if I need another plant addictio....collection.

Steve,

Don't look at Orchids, whatever you do!! LOL!

I'm lucky - I'm grafting this year for the first time, so I have 75 A.p. seedlings I'm forcing into bud and will be making my first grafts in about 2 weeks! Yeeha!! Something to do!!! Its been too cold for me to work on my stone walls :-( That's what kept me sane last winter.

K4

Thanks K4 for your informative post.I'm definitely going to try a couple or so this year and see what happens ! T.

On the subject of companion plants, my conifers actually started off as companion plants to the rest of my garden, which was a mess of perennials and deciduous shrubbery as well as a pretty big collection of hostas and ferns (note to Steve: try ferns!). For me, moving to conifers has been part of a move in my gardening to a more controlled, formal look as my gardening to that point seemed to be having the effect of uglifying, rather than beautifying, our yard.

My experience of mixing conifers with other plants is that (a) anything deciduous or herbaceous messes up the look, and (b) my preference for intertwining/layered foliage doesn't always result in the healthiest conifers. A tall hosta or ligularia for example will shade out a conifer behind it and then, in fall, smother it by plastering it with wet dead leaves.

I'm still determined to somehow grow conifers and other plants, but I'm finding it takes a good understanding of plant shapes, and some careful plant training, separation/grooming, and pruning depending on plant size at time of planting. And some things just DON'T work in my tight space, for example arching ferns just don't work next to certain types of conifers because planted as close together as they need to be on my little property, they try to occupy the same airspace.

And a word for Firefighter about Rhodos: "boring?" You're looking at the wrong rhodos! If you really start looking at rhodos for foliage, you'll go weak in the knees and forget that they ever flower. I have a couple of plants on which I don't even like the flowers and grow them solely because of the beguiling foliage. I look forward to the emergence of new leaves way more than I do to the flowers, with very few exceptions. I'll try to get out and snap some photos, once it's gotten less cold and the leaves are looking good again.

My ideal combo: conifers, rhodos, and Japanese maples.

KarinL

Well pictures then Karin! Pictures!

I just started planting into my side shade bed and my first five plants were:

A red rhodedenron
Tsuga canadensis 'New Gold'
Picea pungens 'Baby Blue Eyes'
Picea glauca 'Alberta Conica'
Acer palmatum 'Higasiyama'

I have a few more rhodies and kalmia(sp?) to mix in so it's not that I dislike them, I just think plantings of all rhoddies can be pretty boring many months of the years.

That said I'd love to see some of your rhody pictures Karin.

Karin,

Rhodies are totally awesome! I would have more but the deer keep eating them.

Have you tried Oakleaf Hydrangeas? If you like Rhodies you might enjoy them as well.

Post pics!! :-)

K4