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| most of all.. timing is the utmost consideration ...
in my z5.. as soon as the ground thaws.... 6 to 8 weeks before bud burst and the heat of summer.... or basically october .... when the other trees are in full color.. most all trees are dormant.. or darn close enough ... the plant was sold as Abies procera x Abies koreana .. gee's tree farm ... ken
and then i added 4 to 6 inches of mulch over the whole bed... about 2 - 3 inches in the moat ... good luck |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Very interesting. Thank you. What a beautiful looking day as well ...! Richard |
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| Ken, very nice pictorial of how it should be done. You soil looks real nice compared to Colorado. I thought you weren't supposed to stomp on the backfill? But I admit to lightly tapping it down myself, just not compacting it. |
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| Nice presentation Ken. You got it right...IMHOP. I did something similar 2 years ago with a 'Hoopsii' only the root ball probably weighed 200 lbs. Dave |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Mon, Feb 8, 10 at 12:37
| the plant was moved april 17 2009 .. last year ... so i personally have 2 months for such a nice day ... in my sand.. i am a stomper .... prior to water ... you can NOT over-compact mineral sand ... my plants do not fall over... nor are they staked unless over 4 feet or so.. and i dont really move things of that size .... i would NOT do that after water.. or i would make cement ... ken |
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| dave - mine was a ridiculously huge Vanderwolf's - rootball of 300 lbs plus. two of us did the job by dragging/shoving/cussing it on a tarp...we must've been mental. lol ken, very nice pictoral directions. happy to see you're still around here! i barely recognize anyone anymore (who am i, again?? :) |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Tue, Mar 9, 10 at 15:35
| bump .. i have a gut feeling this topic is going to be repeating as spring thaws ... ken |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Mar 27, 10 at 9:36
| bump me up scotty i have a feeling this will be helpful at this time of year ken |
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- Posted by firefightergardener (My Page) on Mon, May 3, 10 at 10:46
| Let's re-bump this by the way because this is a great combination of effort and good information for many new gardeners planting trees and/or conifers. My own planting practices vary slightly in that I usually dig a smaller hole(lack of surrounding space often) and that my soil is so rock-filled, a maddox-axe is usually the best way to dig. -Will |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Wed, Jan 19, 11 at 9:25
| spring is coming.. plans are being drawn ... time to bump this one up ... ken |
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| Excellent information! Thanks! |
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- Posted by catherinet z5 (My Page) on Fri, Mar 25, 11 at 21:16
| Ken, do you use superphosphate when you plant/transplant? |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Mar 26, 11 at 11:01
| NEVER>> EVER>> ADD ANYTHING TO THE PLANTING HOLE .... even in my mineral sand ... UNLESS A SOIL TEST INDICATES something is lacking ... and i would not rely on local hearsay for suggestions.. been there.. done that.. paid the price ... trees love sand ... i suspect its all about drainage ... and if you look about any open space.. you will come to the conclusion that trees can FIND what they need without any help from us ... including our inclination to FEED OUR BABIES ... save your money for more plants ... severe clay would be the only exception ... but i will not discuss that here.. since it has been covered elsewhere so many time that i want to puke.. lol ... like some old posted titled something like.. HOW TO PLANT IN CLAY SOIL ... anyway ... have a great day ken |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Mar 26, 11 at 11:07
| i found my old post .. check out the link for thoughts regarding clay .. ken |
Here is a link that might be useful: link
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Mon, Apr 2, 12 at 10:43
| bumping up this post .. before it disappears into GW eternity ... ken |
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| Ken, why do you flood the planting hole? Wouldn't that compress the soil and disrupt the texture? Perhaps its fine with sand. Sorry if I missed it in your post. People will probably shake a finger at me but I just take a drain spade shovel and angle in around the rootball. I don't have time to remove all that soil surrounding the rootball. That only comes in handy if you are moving a very large rootball (IME and IMO). It must work as I've yet to lose one of my own transplants. I'm just playing devil's advocate since you bumped this for newbies. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Tue, Apr 3, 12 at 8:49
| hey will ... i said.. somewhere above: "in my sand.. i am a stomper .... prior to water ... you can NOT over-compact mineral sand ... my plants do not fall over... nor are they staked unless over 4 feet or so.. and i dont really move things of that size .... i would NOT do that after water.. or i would make cement ... " ===>>> i flood the hole [3 times actually].. IN MY SAND ... because it will drain away within minutes.. leaving a perfectly damp soil [and that includes not just the disturbed soil around the planting.. but also the soil around the actual hole dug] ... that will not need to be watered again ... presuming good mulch.. until the real heat of summer hits in later july ... you HAVE TO KNOW.. how water moves thru the soil in your garden ... and the only way to do that.. would be to dig some holes.. for no other reason.. than to fill them with water.. and watch and time.. how long it takes to drain ... we can spend hours speculating about a 3rd party soil.. but until you do it yourself ... in your garden.. in your soil... who knows how it all works ... but the equation.. in my mind ends up that water management and aftercare [proper watering] .. is 95% of the battle to success ... root issues being the other 5% ... ken |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Jun 23, 12 at 10:31
| better bump this one up.. before it falls into obscurity .. ken |
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| I just like looking at that soil. So strange to me. All we have around me is hard, red clay. If you dig a "hole" it becomes clay pot! Nice shallow saucers work. Anyway. Nice dirt!!! |
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- Posted by jimbobfeeny 5a IN (My Page) on Sat, Jun 23, 12 at 13:36
| I've been looking at that soil, too! Definitely different from our soil - on our 12 acre property, we've got 6 different soil types, varying from poorly drained clay loam to well-drained silty clay loam, to chocolate-colored bottomland silt. All loam around here, I haven't seen too much heavy clay except where there's been excavation or construction. I live in the Tipton Till Plain, where Miami-Crosby-Brookston soils dominate. Apparently, Miami soils are some of the most productive soils in North America - Unfortunately, we don't have much Miami soil on our property! What little there is grows excellent conifers, though - my best looking Fraser fir is on a slight North slope in Miami silt loam. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Mon, Mar 18, 13 at 8:40
| time to bump this up ... ken |
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