used the GW search on your GW name ... see link

i think its the third one down

bump that one back up.. by replying to it and pasting the above info ..

.. and let this duplicate die .. IMHO ....

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link

Thanks for the link, but looks like I never did ask that one. Maybe I read a thread where someone else did?
Either way, I can't find it through the search.

Maybe I can ask again- can a 10 gallon sized Taxodium tree get planted right into the pond itself? Should I worry about it drowning seeing that the roots haven't been exposed to such conditions previously, and any tricks at all? Thanks again!

From what remember from a college botany or ecology class, it is not the cold temperatures that limits the northward distribution of Taxodium (as they are hardy in the ground zones north of where they are native) but the ice cover in the habitats where they would be successful competitors (in seasonally flooded margins of water bodies). I think the expanding and contracting ice of a pond or river just destroys seedlings and prevents them from getting established. I don't know if the ice will shred and kill a larger tree. As for the roots, I have a couple of potted bald cypress that I had been growing normally for a few years. Last summer, I decided to see how one would do if I just dropped the pot into a 5 gallon bucket and kept it full of water. It loved it immediately, and grew much faster than the one right next to it not in the bucket.

can they now be planted right into the pond

==>>> you can do whatever you want.. i was just hoping to save you some effort.. if it had been answered before ...

the issue i see.. is taking roots.. used to air.. and fully submerging then IN THE POND... where is the transition .. lets call it.. the hardening off to the new situation ...

if you could build a little mound in the pond.. so that the trunk stays out of the water.. some roots above the water.. some in the water.. the plant should be able to adjust and cope and go for it ..

the peep above.. doesnt say if he fully submerged his pot in the bucket .. or just put the bottom of the pot in standing water..

outside of this topic.. many things can thrive in many places.. in my experience of killing things.. it was the actual planting.. or transplanting that killed them.. not the location etc ....

so .... how would you plant it in the pond... that is the only issue i see ...

if you could plant it on the edge ... i see no issue.. but you cant wade out there and stick it in the middle...

or maybe you can.. we will see.. if anyone has tried ...

good luck

ken

Alright then, the above points (winter ice around trunks and from dryland to aquatic) were my concerns.

I could plant the around the edge. Prefer to go right in with about 6" waterline on the trunk but unless anyone else has experience I'm thinking maybe a death sentence!

I just tossed the whole pot in a full bucket. The pot is about as tall as the bucket and an inch less in diameter. It just fits inside, and when completely full the water line is about and inch over the soil. If the rain didn't keep it full, I would top off with the hose until I saw water right at the soil line. I had several bald cypress that I had grown from seed, and this was just an experiment to see how it would work out. The tree did not seem to have any ill effects from just getting dunked, and immediately grew faster and more full than its counterparts just in pots, now I have them all in buckets. The seedlings really seem to appreciate the extra water in the summer. However, I do take them out of the buckets during the winter in case of freezing. The native Taxodium here grow where one day they are high and dry, and the next they are underwater for a couple of weeks or months. I don't think getting the roots totally submerged quickly will kill your trees in the short term, but they do grow naturally in seasonally flooded areas and can't seed directly into a permanent standing body of water. If I were you, I would plant yours right on the edge of the wet area, where the soil is wet in the summer, but they won't have the potential for ice damage in the winter. If you have a "tree to spare" I would go for gold and stick it out in the middle as an experiment to see how it handles the ice.

Ones planted near the Seattle arboretum were planted in rafts and floated. They were there for many years, may even still be present but of course the tops were dwarfed by the limited size of the rooting area.

You have to put aquatics in containers and float or sink them because when you try to dig planting holes underwater the loosened soil all goes out into the water.