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engineerchic_gw

Arborvitae - err on the side of too much or too little water?

EngineerChic
9 years ago

Hello All,

I have read a number of threads here about watering arborvitae and I still have a question. Here is the question first in case the answer is, "Don't be stupid, neither are okay..."

I'm traveling and want to set my watering system up to keep newly transplanted arborvitae alive while I'm gone. I'm assuming it won't be perfectly even and the 45 new trees will range in how well they stay watered. Would it be better to ensure that they stay "moist to wet" or "dry to moist"?

Background: (lots of it in the hopes I cover all the variables you might need to know)
I have 45 arbs planted in two staggered rows. One row of Rosenthalli and one of Smaragd.

I Planted them 2 weeks ago, they were purchased from a nursery in Western MA that grows them in a field (they specialize in "native plants"). They were B&B and all are 6-7' tall. By purchasing local stock I am hoping they are better acclimated to the winters here. I have them 4' on center and the rows are 3.5' apart. Right now they are about 28" wide, so no one is touching anyone else.

Soil they are in: not the greatest, to be honest. It's a little heavier than I'd like but under about 12"-18" of soil is a layer of rocks the size of small fists or your typical red potato. That rocky layer is about 6"-12" deep, depending on the area. Why? Because the yard was regraded about 2 years ago and using "3 inch minus" rocks was the cheapest way to raise the grade in low spots. Although the soil they are in has more clay than I like, it grew grass really well for the last 2 years and looks good (dark, and is still crumbly unless it's totally saturated). But it skews toward clay more than sand, though I hope the rocky layer helps distribute water away from the site.

When planting, I cut away most of the burlap and where I couldn't cut it away I sliced it (so roots could grow through, though the seller said it will decompose pretty quickly). Also, they are planted a little high in the holes - at the recc of the nursery owner (he said it was better to have them about an inch above the ground as opposed to being too deep). But there is no burlap above the ground to wick water away. For irrigation I'm using soaker hoses (the cheap ones that weep water, not calibrated or anything) and they are connected in loops to help balance the pressure. Each trunk is circled with a ring of soaker hose about 12-15" in diameter so the water will hopefully flow right down into the root ball. There is a layer of mulch over the whole area.

I have been turning the soaker hose on at low pressure for about 90 min every 3-4 days. I'm checking the moisture level with a couple cheap moisture meters that you poke into the soil, and I poke several places because I figured if one area of the rootball registers 2/10 (dry) while other areas read 5/10 (moist) then I need to water that day or the next ... Depending on what his neighbors are feeling.

The cost to install these was high - I rented a skid steer that you stand on and it took me two full days to get it done ($500 for the equipment rental) plus another $65 per tree to buy them, and then the cost of mulch and soaker hose and the hours (and sunburn) of doing all that work. So ... I'm highly incentivized to do right thing here and avoid replacing them if I can. I'd read that arbs like wettish soil over dryish soil, so I'm inclined to set the automated timer to run the soaker hoses for 75 minutes every 3 days (provided there is no rain in the forecast while I'm gone). But I won't be here to poke three places on each tree to figure out if they really need water.

Comments (2)

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    oh crikey.. an engineer... lol ..

    watering is an art.. not a science... you tend toward scientist ... and it is warping your head.. isnt it.. lol ...

    you have tried to figure out your soil.. and how water works in it ... fantastic...

    based on said knowledge.. you have to GUESS .. what is best ... no one can really tell you otherwise ... since we cant guess as to your soil ...

    just do the best you can ... and wing it .. words that make a real engineer pale... lol

    and do note.. ALL my best friends are engineers.... so this is all tongue in cheek... but rooted in knowing the psyche of the profession ...

    in all those words.. i dont know how long you will be gone ... a transitory watering issue is not going to kill a plant inside a month or so ... so on some level.. i think you are over-worrying ...

    and lets be very clear ... YOU PLANTED 45 .... you most likely will have a loss or two ... and until that time ... you will not know your success ... heck.. with all my experience.. i would expect a failure rate ... so dont flip out and try to figure out why.. the exposure starts with not knowing how successful the dig was at inception of BB ...

    prepare for some loss.. and learn a happy dance.. if you win ...

    i dont know about your little water wand... but its better than not having any knowledge ... and you should also be inserting your finger.. under the mulch.. to teach it how to do it ... the meters eventually fail ...

    and finally ... i wish you would have.. wait for it.. gone with an engineered water delivery product ... crikey.. the one place you could have had the science.. instead of the art ... you went art ... little brain freeze there??? ... it would not have been a significant cost difference ....

    with said product.. your failure will be at distance from the spigot ... as pressure is not maintained thru the whole run... when i used such.. i would swamp the first plants.. trying to water the last plants...

    so put all your focus in the end of the run ...

    presuming you arent leaving for months on end.. i would tend.. now that the heat of summer is starting.. to err towards extra water... this is the key season to INSURE the root masses do not dry out ... and then when fall hits.. we can dry them out... for winter.. if need be ...

    you are not going to kill the batch... but for the worst clay soil ever .... and i dont think you have that ...

    you have analyzed.. and considered every variable know to the gardening world.. i hate to tell you.. you are now left to the whim of mother nature .... with decades of messing with her.. let me sum it up with.. GOOD LUCK WITH THAT ...

    i hope this was helpful.. and that you have some sense of humor ...

    i wish you luck ...

    ken

    ps: if you have failures.... talk to us then ... but in case i forget this brainstorm ... you can re-harvest some of what you have.. and place them to fill a hole .... and then plant some diverse plants where you take stock from .... lets not talk about failure right now.. but if so.. remind me about this ....

  • EngineerChic
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Many, many thanks for this advice. You are right, I should have gone with a better drip irrigation system and I still might do that. I was thinking the soaker hoses would be good enough, but I think I'm more comfortable using them on perennials than trees. I underestimated the level of concern I'd have for "things I planted with a skid steer" versus "things I planted with a shovel". Perennials seem almost disposable in comparison.

    Thanks for the humor, I was so tempted to put in a data acquisition system to monitor soil moisture at each tree but talked myself out of it (for now, at least). Next year, after I've gotten these guys partly established, I want to add some more evergreens to the bed for more interest. But definitely smaller (lighter weight!) things - I was surprised how much these things weighed, which is good because if I'd known that I wouldn't have done the project ;)