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b2alicia

Trying to grow a pretty conifer wind block

b2alicia
10 years ago

Hi conifer lovers,
I live just north of Denver and usually post in the Rocky Mt forum, but I thought you might have some extra pearls of wisdom.
In the link below, I talked about trying to grow some pretty conifers to block the blizzards from slamming against my back porch.

Three years later, I'm still working on it! Three of the original six died, and I had to replace them, and here we are today.

The Austrian pine on the back right was put in last year, and a month ago , I put in the new Vanderwolf pine in the front on the right, and the other Austrian pine on the left.

I'm determined that this time they will thrive and grow tall and strong. Any special tips? Thanks!
Betty

Here is a link that might be useful: old post from 8/16/10

Comments (7)

  • gardener365
    10 years ago

    Your planting is aesthetically-pleasing. I don't want to be the bad guy however, you have a lot of large-growing trees in a very small footprint. And one other thing is Pines as they mature and grow together lose their needles from the ground up because they are shaded. Firs and spruce on the other hand, do not. They grow together and retain their foliage from the ground up.

    Ideally, that spot calls for (2) trees, or (3) narrow trees. Two Picea omorika (Serbian spruce) would have fit that spot perfectly. I suppose (3) would give you a quicker screen though and would be OK.

    Enjoy it while you can though, but the day will arrive when you will be wondering why you planted so many trees in a spot where ultimately (1) mature Pinus nigra (Austrian pine) could have filled the entire spot...... Serbian's would have been the way to go.

    Dax
    P.s., weed fabric and cardboard both will create mold on the soil surface. It's best not to use either. Mulch alone would have been the best way to fly. I'm sorry to be the bad guy, but we all have to learn. Best regards.

  • treebarb Z5 Denver
    10 years ago

    b2alicia,

    I've enjoyed your project posts on RMG. You've been busy! You've made good plant choices for the area. I agree ultimate spacing is tight, but as you've learned they may not all make it. Enjoy how it looks now, but cut a 6' diameter circle around each tree, remove the cardboard and weed barrier and get some water on those trees. I don't know how you're watering, but I bet you'll find it's quite dry under the barriers . The spruce on the right is going to want more water than the pines.

    The trees are still small so movable. Do some research on the height and spread of your selections. Now that we've hit the record breaking temperatures portion of the summer, do nothing more than water and plan what needs to be moved. Do the moving in late September/early October or wait till spring. Or leave them be and see what happens. ;o)

    Barb

  • b2alicia
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks so much, Dax and Barb!
    Wonderful info. Dax, I did not know that about pines losing their needles from the ground up, but as I think about it, that makes perfect sense.

    What about Junipers? There's that juniper in the back, and I wonder if it keeps its foliage from the ground up..I'm thinking yes?

    Another question - about 10 years to maturity?
    Well, I'm 63 now, another 10 years and I'll be 73, hopefully I'll still be able to manage my home by then!

    Barb, so interesting about the blue spruce... if it's been a water issue, I would expect it to be the most thirsty. But it's been growing along okay from the start. It's one of the original three that's still hanging in there.

    I think the sprinkler system doesn't really help the trees.
    So this summer, I'm planning to hand water on these hot hot days...just set the water hose at the base of the trunk and let it trickle in for about 3-4 minutes? every 3-4 days?

    I love the look of this group, though I see they are all columnar. So beautiful though!

  • outback63 Dennison
    10 years ago

    "just set the water hose at the base of the trunk and let it trickle in for about 3-4 minutes"?

    No.

    Let it slow trickle all night. You want to reach the bottom of the planting hole.

    A good rule of the thumb to go by. Water again when the soil is dry down to the second knuckle of your index finger in the planting area.

    Dave

  • b2alicia
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thank you, Dave!
    We're hitting our stretch of 100 degree temps, 20 percent humidity, so I will start checking with my finger every day.

    New question--
    I read lots and lots before I prepared for these last two new trees. One thing said to get rid of every blade of grass and roots in the area, because they will steal the moisture away from the new baby tree. That's been a struggle all along, and I wonder if that could be a factor in their previous demise. So when the neighbor boy dug the new holes, I spent 2 weeks just sifting through the soil. Do you think that will help? Do you think the grass roots can really steal enough of the moisture to affect the growth of the new tree?

  • alley_cat_gw_7b
    10 years ago

    Hi b2alicia, Dont fret about your last question. If your temps are around 100...all you need to worry about is helping them through your heat wave with watering. Especially your new additions. I would keep them damp if rain is not forecasted.
    Al

  • b2alicia
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thank you, Al!
    I just watered each one this morning right at the base, leaving the hose there long enough for me to pull any grass or weeds that have come up in 2 days. (ie. bind weed!) The trees all seem very happy with plump green needles, and lots of new growth. None seem stressed or wilting, or unhappy in any way, even the new ones. Keeping my fingers crossed!