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Alaskan Cedar Root System

cjmjr
10 years ago

I would like to know about the root system of the weeping Alaskan Cedar. The landscaper planted the tree about 3 feet from the house and after 9 years, it is 15 ft. high. I am worried about the root system destroying the concrete slab of the house and the hot water tubes in the slab. I wanted to move it and the nursery said there should be no problem with the tree. I do not believe him. Anyone know about the root system??

Comments (8)

  • lcadem
    10 years ago

    well, three feet is really close... the roots will turn if they meet a hard surface (thigmotropism). Nonetheless, once the root is formed and is in place, it won't move but it will grow in caliper. So, while I believe the root won't do any damage to your concrete for the next few years, I believe that, in time, they might push the concrete in rather than grow around it (in the woods you can find exposed roots that have grown in caliper around a stone, without moving it). In essence don't think of roots as something that will meet a hard surface head on and push it away.

    More than the root system pushing the concrete, I would be maybe more concerned about the root system developing in a completely asymmetric fashion which might make the tree unstable to high winds, ice or snow loads, especially since, if I remember correctly, that nootka has surface roots.

    In essence, I believe that it is somewhat risky. I hope that someone that has more hands on experience with the species can give you advice.

  • Embothrium
    10 years ago

    If the climate and site permit full development you are going to end up with a tall specimen right next to the house. Even without concerns of root effects - which you are already having - the height of the top may come to bother you also. And there will be the litter dropping onto the roof and into the gutters (unless these have covers over them).

    In the wild Nootka cypress is often a forest giant. In my area there are planted specimens in a commercial landscape of the Van Dan Akker clone of 'Pendula' that have been measured using a scientific instrument and determined to be over 70' high.

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    10 years ago

    you need a better 'guy' .. i am not sure he has any clue what he is talking about.. and you already suspect such ...

    as bboy noted.. the roots are going to be the least of your problems ...

    please refer to the link.. and figure out why 3 feet from your house is NOT appropriate

    i dont know if i would spend good money chasing bad placement ... it might be a heck of a lot cheaper.. to buy a new one.. and plant it further away from the house.. rather than spending hundreds to move a 15 foot tall tree .... which might have low success on transplanting ...

    and then just cut the close one flush to the ground.. it will die immediately ....

    BTW ... a pic of your plant.. might get you a cultivar name.. and change our minds ...

    and double BTW ... july/august is NOT tree moving time .. tell us where you are.. and we can give instructions re: that

    ken

    Here is a link that might be useful: link

  • cjmjr
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    I am truly amazed and thankful for all the responses to my question. The advice is truly great. We are located in western Pennsylvania.

  • scotjute Z8
    10 years ago

    There are several examples of Arizona Cypress (Cousin trees or at least they were)planted close to houses down here with no apparent problems from the roots. The trees tend to lean away from the house ever so slightly. Might leave as long as you are enjoying it with the idea that one day it gets cut.

  • gardener365
    10 years ago

    You have options but to me the best is to move it. That height of Nootka cypress will need a rootball when dug 4' in diameter in all directions. It's not as bad as it sounds as far as the work goes.

    You have two options: move it this Fall when you notice a few weeks of significant drops in temperature which correlates with Fall color, or, wait until late winter after the ground has thawed and move it anytime, then. Personally, I prefer transplanting in late winter while literature cites Fall as being the best time. For me, I like the fact that warmer temperatures are just around the corner versus the cold temperatures of winter.

    Whatever you do, that is if you decide upon moving it, water it religiously a few times a week at its new location so the soil is drenched. Do it all year until the onset of winter. The following year continue to water it once a week very deeply, or once every two weeks, again, very deeply.

    Trees are not meant to be planted next to houses. It doesn't matter the cultivar. They should be planted far enough away, the minimum being 12', but further is always better.

    Dax

  • tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
    10 years ago

    Three feet is too close but how wide is the tree?

    I knew of phototropism and geotropism but thigmotropism was new to me also.

    tj

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