This has happened to every Pinus longaeva I have tried to grow within one or two summers. They just don't seem to like the high heat and humidity that come with our summers. I've stopped trying them.

It is interesting to note that the two Pinus aristata cultivars that I grow have been fine for the past three years.

That's too bad, that was a wonderful plant, and it looks like it had thrived in your garden for many years. What do you think is the cause? Dieback of roots caused by high temperature and difficulty maintaining sufficient moisture to the root zone? Or fungal issues attacking the top due to high ambient temperature and humidity?

I tried my luck with a Mexican pine, Pinus strobiformis 'Loma Linda', this year and over the past few weeks it has started doing the same thing :*(

I sometimes wonder about these heat/humidity sensitive species, if there's anything one could do to help with zone pushing (and I'm using 'zone' loosely here). If the problem is a sensitivity to fungal issues at higher humidity for example, maybe an anti-fungal spray earlier in the season or anti-fungal root drench. Of course the idea of a chemical treatment for a plant already in decline sounds like it's bound for failure. But one does think about ways to improve success with these zone pushing exploits...

I seem to remember earlier this year back in spring, that you posted a picture of your longaeva 'SC' focused in on the buds and one forum member suggested that some of the buds might have died...I don't remember the details though. How did that turn out? It looks like everything pushed okay in the spring.

Smart approach dealing with the mugo, it looks completely natural.

Alex

Cool mugo over rock Dave. That's clever.

Whether fiction or fact, you could try to save that longaeva with a mycorrizal root drench. Drill holes around the perimeter/drip area about 5" down with a 1" wood bit is fine and then pour a 5-gallon bucket of mix. In the meantime, cut off the dead. I'll send you enough mycorrhizae to make a 5-gallon bucket. In cases of verticillium wilt, mycorrhizal drenches can be effective. Just a thought here.

Alex & Dave, I spray my Pinus jeffreyi with liquid copper late spring prior to bud break, then I spray it when the buds begin to open, then I spray it after the new growth has extended fully and then once more later in the summer & if any symptoms arise, spray as needed. So far I haven't had "symptoms" & preventative is doing the job. This information I picked up off the Lovett Pinetum website. The fella said it 'helps establishing jeffreyi in hot & humid climates'.

I'll continue spraying mine until it's too tall and if it hasn't 'adapted' and fungus takes over as Beng keeps telling me is going to happen, then so what I say. It may actually work, it has for this guy in Missouri. It is what it is and nothing more...........

And Dave, I'd spray that longaeva with copper immediately after you've cut off the dead.

Dax

Thanks Dax.

I'll get on it today with the copper spray and do the roots when I get the mycorrhizae you send me.

See link on this product.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Link

Double post

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Link

This post was edited by Davesconifers on Sun, Jul 14, 13 at 8:36

Doesn't look gone yet; remember that in the wild too, Pinus longaeva tends to get lots of dead branches: (US NPS photo)

I'd trim out the dead foliage and let it develop a more open crown, that will help with ventilation, which might reduce further branch loss. Think of it as a near-ancient specimen developing character ;-)

Resin

Hopefully it hangs in there. Sure is a nice old specimen.

Anytime, Dave.

Read your link and all the comments. I see a hort. prof or 'distinguished scholar' said that copper or fungicides will kill/damage mycorhizal spores. So, my drawn conclusion is to put the copper on the shelf.

Use the copper if there's a worsening of the situation, but I'd wait until next spring, that is, unless it's semi-severe and multiple more branches are dying rapidly. Then I'd drench that MF to the point of dripping and, I'd drench the ground, as-well.

See if you can get by on just the mycorrhizae is all I'm saying for now. Naturally, logic took me in this direction.

If you already applied the copper, no biggie man. That might be just as effective.

Best regards,

Dax