|
| The Norway spruce I planted in April has some yellowing on the top side of the new growth on the north side. The south side and the old growth look just fine. With several days in the 90's and a few 100's I assume this is somewhat normal since its not yet established. The growth this year was very minimal 1 to 3 inches. Is there any fear the yellowing will cause growth issues next year or is it just superficial damage during establishment?
By the way. It seems backward that it's burning on the north and not the south. |
Follow-Up Postings:
|
- Posted by gardener365 IL 5/6 (My Page) on Fri, Jul 6, 12 at 3:17
| Hang in there and wait and see. Dax |
|
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Fri, Jul 6, 12 at 7:47
| based on words alone.. pure speculation at best.. its cosmetic ... everything has its season.. and if some plants get some superficial leaf damage in the high heat of summer.. so be it ... whether or not it is a new transplant or not ... i often post pix of my tricolor beech.. and many complain.. that the cream edge.. burns off in august.. so i sugggest.. they look at something else in august.. as the thing is sublime may thru july ... i thought you had pix capability??? ken ps: if you are lucky.. you will miss the winter version of such ... its really special when it burns twice a year ... |
|
| Screen the side that is yellowing. You don't say if b&b or potted. There is a big difference in survival rate with the record heat and drought upon us. B&B with only 20% of roots left after dig will suffer the most. Watering just the right amount is critical for anything planted this year. I water my newbies every day. So far no issues. Hope yours acclimates. Like Dax says: Wait and see. Dave |
|
| Ive grown Japanese maples before that burned the first year and the following summers there was less and less leaf burn until the trees do fine and grow beautifully. My problem now is my 'Golden Spreader' is showing burning on the top side.I planted it in a east facing garden where the latter part of the day is shaded. I think our weather has just been too brutal. Im not sure if it needs to be better sited,or is there a chance it will eventually acclimate itself over time where it is. Yes, its been watered deeply a few times a week. Any advice or comments appreciated! AL |
|
- Posted by greatplainsturf 6/7 OK (My Page) on Fri, Jul 6, 12 at 16:25
| The pics aren't great. Lighting was not good this morning. Yes the tree was b&b. I've seen roots 2 feet or so out so I know it's growing some root mass back. The burned north side The not so burned south side |
|
| I don't see any burning? |
|
- Posted by greatplainsturf 6/7 OK (My Page) on Fri, Jul 6, 12 at 17:41
| Like I said. The photos aren't good. The first pic is the best one. The top side is much more yellow than the bottom of the same branch and much more than the south side. I know it's not really bad yet, but I wanted to ask before it got too bad to do anything about. I'll try to get a better photo tonight. |
|
- Posted by greatplainsturf 6/7 OK (My Page) on Fri, Jul 6, 12 at 17:43
| Oh and its only on the pathetic new growth, which had already hardened off. The old needles look fine. |
|
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Fri, Jul 6, 12 at 18:27
| will someone show her a pic of real scorch.. and tell her to quit worrying about this one.. at this time .. crimminey.. i am with will on this one.. there is no scorch on this plant.. based on those pix .. when all the needles on the top burn off.. COMPLETELY ... then we can discuss REAL scorch... i will look to see if i have any on my hard drive.. what else is there to do in 104 degree heat .. that is RFH in Celsius ... lol .. will report back if i have any luck.. where is the worlds ugliest skylands ... ken ps: the key to the future .... and survival.. is in those buds at the tips .. when they scorch off or start browning ..... you have big problems. ... pps: it is not uncommon to have a reduced annual growth rate.. for the first year or two.. after transplant ... |
|
- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Fri, Jul 6, 12 at 18:39
| apparently.. i did not take a lot of pix of scorch ... here is is on glauca 'dent' ... near the bottom.. all the white tissue has COMPLETELY scorched of the top of the branch .. leaving a bare branch showing.. on this plant ... it is the white tissue.. which is weakest ... ken
and here it is on the white tissue of Pinus sylvestris 'Barry Bergman'
ps: i know you are worried and lovin up your plants.. just try to relax .. and go with whatever they throw at you ... its not really as easy as many of us suggest.. especially when you get away from the blue and green foliage.. and get into the more touchy yellow and white tissues .. |
|
- Posted by greenhaven N Illinois 4b-5a (My Page) on Sun, Jul 8, 12 at 23:24
| Will scorched leaves come back? I am getting ready to shade my newly-planteds, the sun and heat have been brutal. I have some stress-signs showing, and I think my already-compromised P. omorika 'Pimoko' is a goner. Or, it will be after I pull it tomorrow. The nursery credited the retailer for all her plants, so I got a credit for mine. Took a gamble planting it, guess it won't pay off. Anyway, Picea abies 'Pumila' and C. obtusa 'Kosteri' are also showing stress signs. The Montgomery Spruce and P. parviflora 'Kin-Po' look good right now, but I do not think I have anything to lose by giving them some relief. |
|
| had the same problem with some of my norways. I wish mine looked like yours. here is the link to the thread http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/conif/msg061852203493.html?16 |
|
- Posted by greatplainsturf 6/7 OK (My Page) on Tue, Jul 10, 12 at 19:32
| Here is a better picture. In person the color is a little worse than it shows here. Will burn like this which could get worse over the summer cause the buds or branch to die? |
|
| Sunburn in Oklahoma isn't soft and yellow, it's harsh and brown all the way. Since we rarely get a break once the heat begins, once the needle tips begin that browning process it will continue until the plant is dead. In some varietals you can put up some temporary sun screen cloth and limit the amount of needle damage that will occur and save the tree. But considering it's only mid-July and we have another 30-45 days of high heat to go, if it's browning now and you don't do something, it not only will kill the buds and branches, it will kill the tree. Water can help a lot of trees to combat the heat, but in some varietals it doesn't matter how much water you throw on the roots, under our heat they will succumb. In Oklahoma you really should have your trees on a drip system at least for the first few years until the root system has a chance to develop and settle in. You won't be able to get enough water deep enough with a regular hose/sprinkler type approach. But if it is sunburn, you will know it. mark |
|
| Two of my 'Skylands' dropped the majority of its needles last year. But they still had intact buds. They bud out fine this year. Ufortunately the heat rapped them this year and they are now all brown, even with some shade cloth. The number of sunny days we've had is just insane. 0.8" of rain in 70 days is a joke too. Its funny that the low to mid 90s had little effect but the 100+ was an absolute game changer. I must have the crappiest luck with weather. Chosing to install a large scale landscape in the last 18 months has absolutely KILLED me. I laugh when I see people worried about 1 or 2 palnts. I have a dead pile of 30 plants so far (combined from the freezes and heat). Thats alot of sacrifice up in smoke with no payoff. I sill don't think you have sun scorch by the way, lol. |
|
| Last summer I was right where you are this year. Two years of extensive landscaping and then the record heat wave of all time for Oklahoma. My nightly walk of death just about did me in. But I learned from some mistakes, moved things around, finished setting in the drip system, and so far this year ( knock on all kinds of wood ) we are weathering this heat wave pretty well. mark |
|
- Posted by greatplainsturf 6/7 OK (My Page) on Thu, Jul 12, 12 at 20:10
The pic makes it look a little greener than it is. Not really any brown, just yellowing on top. This is the worst part of the whole tree 75% of it shows no sign of stress at all (other than the tiny growth after transplant). I think I'll hold off shading unless things go downhill more. I'd like to get it used to this full sun spot. I'm not complaining though Compare this to the tree I planted last year in this pic taken at about the same time of year.  |
|
- Posted by greenhaven N Illinois 4b-5a (My Page) on Thu, Jul 12, 12 at 22:31
| Its a tough year for plants to "learn to like their spot." I think I would rather baby them through a blistering season rather than lose plants I have spent a lot of time and money on. Giving that guy some shade was the right thing to do, and hopefully the weather will turn appropriate soon! |
|
Dont wait till its too late! abies nordmanniana 'Toasty Spreader'  |
|
- Posted by greatplainsturf 6/7 OK (My Page) on Sun, Jul 15, 12 at 18:40
| So Ken, did your spruce that lost the needles in the top side lose those buds or branches or was it cosmetic? Mine continues a slow decline. Look at the difference between the top and bottom in this photo from the side. Mine is burning just like yours. |
|
| That one is a lost cause. I'd just put it out of its misery now. Honestly there isn't anything you can do at this point. This is true burn here. Note the lose of needles on the previous year growth and it bud out fine this year. Too bad its been so flipping sunny and hot. Just going to have to see what happens next year.
|
|
- Posted by greatplainsturf 6/7 OK (My Page) on Sun, Jul 15, 12 at 22:50
| Whaas. Which One are you saying is a lost cause? The pic I posted earlier of the whole tree was one I lost last year, it's long gone. I just threw that pic up for reference to how not bad this year was compared to last. Good to know that yours had the needles burned off and it still broke bud this year. Too bad it's burning again. I'm certain this years is not lost yet. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Conifers Forum
Instructions
- You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
- HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
- No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.