Didn't you just have some big trees transplanted?

Hand-dig
plop in preprepared hole
use ammendments only when absolutely necessary (I added them to my garden when I first-tilled. I don't care what the books say).
a little above grade is so the plants don't settle below grade. I believe a few inches and mulch was recommended to you in your 'wire basket' situation. or that was someone else.

these are little trees! get a shovel. do it during the hottest day you can find so they die! Don't mulch to protect the roots!!

Later.

Dax is right, these are small trees. I transplanted a 3.5 foot (1m) Picea glauca this spring and had the root ball basically disintegrate and it hasn't skipped a beat. They are quite forgiving at this stage. To answer your questions specifically:

1. I wouldn't because they need to get used to the soil that's there.
2. I wouldn't because ferts are for top growth and your plants will need root growth.
3. Yes. Higher is ok too if the new site is wetter. Lower is almost never better unless you see roots dangling in space now. Dig the hole in a gradually sloping dish shape and no deeper than the root ball.
4. General rule of thumb is to dig about 18 inches (45cm) away from the trunk for every inch (2-3cm) of caliper.

Also, water the trees well a day or two before you dig them.

tj

Thanks for the advice Dax and TJ. My plan is to wait until theres a cool cloudy day, hopefully after a good soaking rain, and then do the transplanting. Problem is we havent had much rain this summer and very few cool, overcast days!

Keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best! =)

Thanks

Dave

Mmmmm...this time of year you can probably do it fine....
1.Mimimize what you add too the soil(as others mentioned)...do not create a bath-tub
2.Fertilizer yes...rates are different dependent on what you use....16-16-16 can be created via a dozen different components...low rate ....NEVER high at this time.
3. Depth as others have mentioned...better to plant a little high
4.18"-24" rootball you would be covered.

The plants you want to move put a "major" amount of root growth on this time of year...fert. will "load" them for next springs flush(this method is used a lot on the left coast....while a different enviroment, it is done based on how the plant grows). Keep them watered well (hard to describe a "proper" amount) after transplant since most of the root loss will be feeder/uptake roots....but new ones will grow if you do this SOON!!!!!!!

oh boy ....

where are you exactly ..... it might matter ...

timing is everything in moving stock .. presuming you don't have giant trucks to dig BIG root balls .. in my zone5 MICH. .. proper transplant time starts when the tree leaves start turning ... as most trees are going dormant at that time .. including conifers ... so that is just about the month of October in my zone 5 .. and then we stop when there is at least 6 to 8 weeks before the soil freezes ... during which time they must be watered and not left to dry out .... you can fudge it a week or two either way ... but your odds of success start falling fast .. august is never a good time to do this.. especially on drought stricken stock ....

1) you have nice sandy loam .. do NOT waste your money on amending it ... period ... trees grow in cracks of rock on the side of mountains.. they don't need all the foo foo stuff you MIGHT think will help ... save the money to replace the trees.. if you screw it all up ... lol

2) NEVER FERTILIZE IN FALL IN ZONE 5 .... these trees need to go dormant .. not get all wound up on soil amendments ... they need to go to sleep and and grow some roots.... at least get the roots pumping .. before the soil freezes ... and forget about fertilizing ever ... if you really have a LOAM based soil ... all the tree ever needs is already there ... in fact. i have pure sand.. and i never fertilize ... think of it this way .. trees cover a vast percentage of the earth ... and 99.9% never get fertilizer .. and set world records.. they just don't need it .. IMHO ....

3) yes, plant them at the same height ... though i use a moat around my transplants due to the sand.. so i can lay down a few gallons of water at a time to soak the root ball ... otherwise water would just run off, leaving the tree dry ... which leads me to watering ... they will need water all this fall .. and all next year .. to get 'established ... it might be a waste of time and back breaking efforts to try to move them and never water them ... if you need the exercise.. and are the type to give it a go .. regardless .... then go for it.. but don't be surprised at losses ... frankly .. for under 200 bucks.. you can replace these trees.. and even less if you buy half size .... and it might not be worth the effort if you can not water them ...

4) research how to ball and burlap a tree ... get the burlap .. and go for it ... this size tree would need a root ball between 1 and 2 feet across ... there are a lot of tricks to doing it ... including starting to dig about twice the distance out.. and all formation of the root ball involves turning the shovel away from the trunk of the tree and slicing away from the trunk.. to 'try' to make a ball .. google the process to see if you can find tutorials on such ... and sharpen your shovel .. if really helps slicing through the soil and through roots ...

finally .. if they are already droughted.. you need to spend a week or so .. watering them to get them 'ready' for transplant.. you cant dig a stressed tree and expect success ... drag out the hose .... and let water trickle on them .. until you are sure it is fully hydrated to the depth of the root ball you will be digging.. it will help the tree.. and it will help create the root ball you need to make .. plus make it 3 times heavier for the move.. lol ..

seriously ... if you have a thousand dollar project going here.. and life has other important things for you to do ... buying some potted stock to replace, as a function of the project cost .. will be a lot easier than 2 or 3 days of back breaking labor followed by failure ..

personally, i would do it for named, rare cultivars .. but for plain old green trees .. it would just be easier to apply the saw at ground level and be done with it all in an hour .. two if you count the burning .. lol ... and be done with it ... BB'ing stock is thankless work, and full of problems ... been there.. done that ..

GOOD LUCK

ken

PS: you are responsible for all water next year.. insuring that they never dry out for very long.. while they re-establish the root capacity needed ... a large mulch ring.. and PROPER watering during the heat of next summer is IMPERATIVE .... and if it cant be done.. i just dont know if its worth the effort to save these guys ...