I have rooted Thuja koraiensis T occidentalis T plicata
however T standishii is very slow to root and rare in
cultivation.I take thuja cuttings in Autumn.

Hi Spruce,

Root them anytime between the second week of April thru the end of May when they're actively growing with a semi to hardwood heel.

Another time is July 1st on new growth wood only. They need high humidity of course. Mist systems are best but a propagation chamber under fluorescent lights should be good to go. lots of perlite! 70% and 30% peat.

They can also be rooted during winter with hardwood cuttings either in a greenhouse or indoors under artificial lighting (Dec - Feb or March).

Dax

Thanks guys:

From what you say, DAX, I should get someone with the proper equipment/environmant to do any propagation for me.

But, maybe I won't need to have any propagated. I will set up a new topic about T. occidentalis 'elegantissima." After reading more, the T. occidentalis at the arboretum here might just actually be 'elegantissima' after all. If so, I can just buy some.

--spruce

Here you go Spruce. Photos showing preparation of Thuja hardwoods (Metasequoia had to be added/used to show this process). It's still the same. One note though: sometimes just stripping off a branch is all that is needed. Otherwise, shown, are a pair of scissors from 'The Dollar Store' being used (photos thanks to a friend).

A cutting:

Step two - also why scissors are easiest (as well as to collect the cuttings from the mother plants):

Step three (removal of bark on a larger cutting):

Removal of bark on a smaller cutting (see that the foliage has also been trimmed - this is a Metasequoia hardwood cutting which will only root as a hardwood during spring. Otherwise as a summer cutting [July 1] new growth must be used - and the same is true for Thuja)

Rooted cuttings in Trademark Rootmaker Cells after they have been taken off mist:

Water + Dip n' Grow rooting hormone at a rate of 1:6 respectively:

A mist table for your seeing:

*Note*
Mist settings are adjusted to suit the weather. What you're trying to accomplish are cuttings not having large droplets of water on any of the leaf surfaces, and so the cuttings have a chance to dry, prior to the next mist.

These photos are from a nursery in Ohio USA zone 5 (extreme summer heat and humidity) - this guy runs his system, averaging... a six second mist - every 6 minutes - from a 24-hour - wired clock. When the cuttings have rooted (you can lift the roots with a pocket knife to look), they go to a second mist bench... that mists the cuttings 6 seconds every hour, probably for a few weeks. I don't know exactly how long they stay on the second table. Then, they go down to the floor or are placed in a shade structure etc- and are kept watered.

This process when began early spring allows for a chance to up-pot the cuttings to a large enough container, to gain enough root mass, to be overwintered successfully... (the same does apply to late June/early July cuttings) - again - in an extreme winter climate there will be enough time to establish enough of a root-system to make it thru the winter.

Dax

Excellent tutorial Dax!

Yes, excellent. I will contact the man who has done my custom grafting before and see if he can root some cuttings for me. Obviously I don't have any set-up to do this myself. But, I have not completely given up on the idea that I may find out just what the Thuja occidentalis cultivar here at the arboretum is and track down where I can get some.

--spruce

hi
how can grow the seed ??