if you have a warranty ... use it now .... but demand replanting at the proper time to plant trees... mid to late september at least ...

now what kind of pines did you plant???? .. pinus strobus e.g. .. can grow 3 to 5 feet a year ... within a couple years of planting ... smaller plants transplant easier.. establish faster and most likely outgrow huge transplants like yours over a 5 or 10 year period ... if you do not have a warranty .. consider a smaller replacement ...

good luck

ken

PS: a picture or more info than 'the tree is turning brown' .. might further the discussion ...

How long have they been in the ground? How much water are you giving them? Were they potted or B&B?

If the other 9 are doing fine I would suspect that soil conditions and watering are not the issues your pine is contending with.

Let's have a little more information.

Dave

The trees were planted in April. We used a tree spade on a Bobcat to dig them up then put them in burlap and wire baskets. The soil seemed to be fairly sandy and I think the root balls were disturbed. I don't believe there's a warranty on them as we removed them ourselves. I watered them faithfully every other day and used a root starter as well. They seemed to be in shock for a while but most of them came around minus 2. It's been a rainy summer so I have only been watering during hot days. The one that's dying is in an area that previously pooled with water when it rained. We have built up the ground and put up a short retaining wall. The trees are lower than the dirt level and I'm worried that the water is still pooling. The pines are each planted with 2 spruce and the spruce are quite happy. I don't know how to attach pictures, but when I find out I will.

I would love to attach some photos but I just can't make it happen! Any ideas?

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/4411/dsc01319dj2.jpg

Does this work?

I find the best way to post photos is to open an account with Photobucket. Once your photos are loaded into Photobucket, they are easy to transfer to this site.

Here's the link, clickable.

It's a Pinus contorta, and I'm sorry to say, it's dead. The most likely cause is root damage when it was dug.

Resin

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:792112}}

Thanks Phil for the info! I'm still trying to make the pics come up instead of just links.

Hey Resin,
I'm a little confused, the tree did fairly well over the last few months then took a quick turn for the worst. Is there anything I can do or am I going to have a nice campfire? So sad.

Eri

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z218/erika_n_2007/DSC01317.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z218/erika_n_2007/DSC01318.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z218/erika_n_2007/DSC01319.jpg

Wow, what's the beautiful fir in the background, Abies procera, or Abies amabilis, or even something else.:)

Well erika, I guess I have to ask you the age old question: Was the burlap and wire baskets taken off when planted?

The root flare should be crowned at least 2 inches above grade. Never below grade.

Just a few concerns to think about.

Dave

"Wow, what's the beautiful fir in the background" Â Abies lasiocarpa.

Here's the links clickable:
{{gwi:792113}}
{{gwi:792114}}
{{gwi:792115}}

Resin

We left the burlap & basket on. This was the advice given. At the time we planted, the root ball was level with the ground. We then put a little dirt around it, built up the wall and put lawn edging around the three trees and dirt up to the edging. then rocks around the trees. Looked great 'till the tree died!

The tree next to it, I thought, was a spruce. It has very prickly needles.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z218/erika_n_2007/DSC01320.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z218/erika_n_2007/DSC01321.jpg

I suggest when they harden off for the winter you dig them back up and remove burlap and baskets. At the same time you can plant the root ball flare at proper height 2" above grade.

Burlap and soil that covers the trunk above the root crown will lead to trunk disease and death.

I know there is a lot of work involved to replant but those conifers are not going to be happy campers with the burlap and baskets choking them to death. If left intact they will all die over time.

The nursery gave you very bad advice.

Dave

We removed the burlap & wire from the top of the ball but didn't even want to attempt removing the whole basket for fear of disturbing the root ball. The burlap is treated with something green, apparently it is supposed to decompose. They also said the wire basket is supposed to rust away giving the roots Iron. It will be quite a feat removing the baskets as we have planted 6 pine and 9 spruce, all over 10ft. All but 2 pines are quite happy, knock on wood, hahaha! The 2 pines have the largest diameter trunks and I think our 36" spade was too small. I would hate to disturb the happy ones. Any other advice??? Not that I don't appreciate the advice given, just trying to explore options.

In 25 years the wire baskets will still be there. Low oxygen levels prevent basket decomposition.

Go to page 2 of Conifer Forum and read post: Cedrus libani var. stenocoma. Start with the post from treeguy ny regarding the conifer he planted with a wire basket. Read clear to the end.

I won't even discuss wire baskets providing the roots with iron.

Dave

"The tree next to it, I thought, was a spruce. It has very prickly needles"

It is, yes. Blue Spruce. Strange how it looked so much like a fir in branch structure from the other angle!

Resin

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:792116}}

The best practice for transplanting B&B trees is relatively straight-forward.
Remove all wire baskets, twine, and burlap from the root ball. Working on top of a tarp will allow you to transport the root ball remnants elsewhere.

Dig the planting hole to be only as deep as the root system and at least twice as wide.
The hole will resemble a shallow bowl. This is the time to take measurements to crown root ball at least 2" above grade. This is critical.

Backfill with native soil; do not use any type of soil amendment. Water in well.
Do not step on the root zone, but gently firm using your hands.
Mulch the entire planting region with at least 4" of organic mulch, keeping a buffer between the trunk and the mulch to prevent disease.
Stake your tree low and loose with 3 stakes for no longer than one year after planting if need be.
Keep your tree well watered during the first year of establishment. You may have removed a good portion of the root system and its ability to take up water and nutrients will be temporarily impaired. Do not succumb to the temptation to add expensive, but pointless, transplant supplements.

Dave

Thanks all for the advice, I'll let you know how it all went in the spring!
Erika