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coachjohnsonlp

Advice on new grafts from Stanley and Son's

coachjohnsonlp
9 years ago

I purchased the following plants from Stanley and Son's nursery. Amazing prices and the plants look good! I have a few questions I was hoping the gurus could help me with. Most of the grafts look pretty fresh and about half of them are still wrapped with the grafting rubbers. They look a little fragile. I had a newly grafted weeping white spruce from conifer kingdom that died about 1 month after receiving it - I think I exposed it to too much sunlight but I am not sure - looked like it just dried out and all the needles fell off.
Questions
1) Should these newly grafted conifers be exposed to full sunlight - 6 plus hours of direct sunlight? If no - how much?
2) When should the grafting rubbers be removed be removed?
3) Some of the grafts also do not have the understock removed where the graft was made - when should this be removed?
4) Will any of these grafted conifers be ready for fall planting in zone 7 northern NJ?

Tsuga canadensis `Vermeulen Wintergold
Pinus thunbergiana `Oculus Draconis'
Pinus strobus `Tiny Curls'
Pinus mugo `Pal Maleter'
Picea pungens `The Blues'
Picea pungens `Stanley's Gold'
Picea pungens `RH Montgomery'
Picea pungens `Glauca Pendula'
Picea omorika `Kuck Weeping'
Picea pungens `Maigold'
Picea engelmannii `Bushs Lace'
Cedrus atlantica `Glauca Pendula'
Picea omorika `Bruns'
Cedrus atlantica `Pendula'

Comments (9)

  • coachjohnsonlp
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    up close of grafting rubber

  • coachjohnsonlp
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    another close up

  • maple_grove_gw
    9 years ago

    Hi Coach Johnson,

    Some nice new plants you've got there! Whatever else you do, do not put them in full sun right now. They've most likely just come out of a greenhouse and will not be able to handle unprotected full sun in NJ August. Even in a cool summer like this one, the sun is strong in August. Shade of any sort for now, filtered shade would be best. Also, start them off with some protection from the wind which can be gradually removed. I would put them next to the foundation on the North side of the house for two weeks, then move them out into shade.

    As to the specifics of your questions:

    1) See above.
    2) No need to remove the budding strips, they'll naturally decompose over time on exposure to the elements. If you want you can remove them.
    3) Leave the understocks on for now. Cut them off next spring in June. None of your plants are miniatures but if they were you'd want to leave the understock on for a few more years.
    4) In our area you can plant them in the ground any time after Oct. 1. By then, the sun won't be as strong and you'll have them acclimated to wind. From then on, they'll be fine with full sun. It will be better to plant them than to try to maintain them in pots.

    When I have ordered from S&S or other similar nurseries, I would request they ship the plants in late September to avoid the need to take care of the plants until the fall. It would also avoid stressing the plants by shipping during hot weather.

    Alex

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    9 years ago

    i thought stanley.. had them all out doors ... or so someone told me ...

    but the key is not the plant.. if it was outdoors... its the tiny small pot.. which in sun... can dry in an hour ... as compared to the nursery ... where they might be in a larger tray.. and the pot itself wont heat past 100 degrees in sun ...

    i would take a 5 gal pot... and unpot three or 4 of them... intact.. and put them all in one pot ... NOT DISTURBING THE ROOT MASS AT ALL .. that way you are making a bigger mass of media.. that wont get too hot ...

    I WILL KEEP YELLING.. LOL ... HOLDING THEM OVER UNTIL FALL PLANTING TIME ...

    PUT THE BIG POT IN FULL BUT BRIGHT SHADE .... until the sun continues its decline thru fall ...

    i have to run right now.. so i cant review all your other questions.. oh.. leave the rubberbands on for another year or two.. and leave the understock on just as long...

    i will check back and compare my answers with alex/maple ... later or tomorrow..

    ken

  • Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
    9 years ago

    I agree, sun on the pots / heat on the roots is the enemy.

    Man, what would I do with them...

    I would plant each in the largest pot I could find like Ken said w/o disturbing the roots. I would be even tempted to leave them in the plastic mini pots but probably not. Then I would place the large pots under my low low branching dogwood in a spot that gets almost no direct sun.

    For a few years I have kept some metasequoias alive that way. Even got one of five cuttings to root this year....well, it still has foliage so I guess it has roots lol.

  • coachjohnsonlp
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks guys - no sun it is. I have a few 5 gallon pots that should work along the north side of my house. I will leave the understock and bands on as well. Thanks again!

  • bobfincham
    9 years ago

    Hi C.J.

    The understocks have already been removed. The rubber bands need to be removed as well. They are supposed to deteriorate in a short time but do not if shaded and if wrapped so as to be layered the bottom layers will not either. Then the young graft will be girdled.
    Since they are new grafts I would plant them in some nice garden soil for 1-2 years and then move them into the landscape. It is very easy to lose them in containers since watering can be difficult to manage.
    Otherwise put each one in its own 1 gallon pot, put them in half day sun with the container buried in mulch or the ground.
    Since you bought new grafts, you may lose 1 or more for no apparent reason. New grafts do that.

    Bob

  • coachjohnsonlp
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks Bob. Would it be better to get morning sun since it isn't as strong as the afternoon sun?

  • bobfincham
    9 years ago

    Yes, that would be better.