no pics ...

ken

Sorry, it was there at preview...

One more piece of info, I have five trees similar to the one pictured, and they all showed similar browning.

Thanks!
Jeff

Hi Jeff. Is that browning something that just happened? It almost looks like normal fall interior foliage dying off. Someone with more knowledge about this specific plant will come along hopefully. But that is my first impression.

+oM

Hi +oM,

Thank you for your reply. I didn't notice it until today, so I am pretty sure it happened within the last week.

Jeff

There's too much of it to be normal. In general when trees and shrubs drop a large amount of inner or bottom foliage there is a watering problem at the root level, either too much or not enough.

Nitrogen deficiency can also cause such behavior, the plant sacrificing the older foliage in order to keep the new growth near the tips alive.

Jeff, your specimen doesn't look like a Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa Aurea'.
'Aurea' means "golden yellow", which isn't the case here...
Can you show us a detail pic for a better clearness?
Thanks!

I have many Chamaecyparis trees.. The browning looks normal to me.

J

no conifer holds its leaves forever..

interior is normal ... its usually ONLY the oldest leaves ...

the next oldest leaves can be affected due to shipping and transplanting ... or drought or a particularly bad previous winter ...

the thing should be nearly bulletproof.. so i wouldnt spend to much time worrying about it ...

ken

After the brown drops the entire bottom half of the tree's going to be a stick with little poofs of green on the outside edge. A few of the branches are dying all the way out to the end. This is not a normal level of density.

Thank you everyone for responding to my question. Below is a better picture.

I did some tests which showed the soil lacks nitrogen (and other nutrients). Is it a good idea to apply some fertilizer this late in the season? I'm planning to spread some blood meals around before winter so the group of deers in residence don't feel too comfortable. Will that help?

Thanks!
Jeff

it has absolutely NOTHING to due with the soil .. its INTERIOR ... [and it hasnt been in your soil long enough to react ...IMHO .. things just dont happen that fast in nature]

i see NOTHING in the conifers behind.. in the last pic.. to indicate any need to amend your soil ...

how did you come across a soil test overnight ????

i suggest a professional test.. and IF anything is requisite.. do it next season ...

its NORMAL.. its related to the transplant ... and the horrible summer ... and the fact that it was potted .. most likely.. too long ...

you are on the verge of trying to kill it with too much love ... whatever you decide.. do go overboard.. lol ...

i do wish you luck

ken

Thanks, Ken.

Actually I did some tests last spring using a $10 soil test kit, which shows good PH, but very low levels of N, P and K. Didn't do anything, since everything I planted appear to have been doing fine.

I'm relieved that they are not dying. Will refrain from giving unwanted love:)

Jeff

Jeff, I'm curious as to what $10 soil test kit has the ability to test for N. Unless I'm way out of date, soil tests don't even bother attempting to nail down the levels of this elusive nutrient until you get up into the fancy pro laboratory stuff. What am I missing here?

As to fertilizing beyond the critter-repellent blood meal stuff, I'd advise tiny amounts-if any-and this to be applied at the soil surface. Keep in mind, nobody in the world knows what the optimum levels of N, P or K are for that variety of plant. Keep in mind too that N is nearly always "deficient" from the simple standpoint that adding more will yield a growth response. That's a very different thing than saying more N is needed for satisfactory development. I mostly agree with Ken, that you are slipping towards killing the tree with kindness.

If anything and everything you do is done with moderation, you'll probably be okay. Just be aware of the pitfalls of thinking you know more than you-or anyone else- actually know about the precise amount of this or that nutrient required by that plant.

+oM

+om is correct. N in the soil is so volatile and dependent on temps, moisture, bacteria, etc, etc, that University soil tests don't usually bother. If any lawn ferts were put down, nothing is needed for the tree. And the shrub behind looks fine, did it get any treatments?

tj

Thanks for the confirmation, TJ. Thought I was getting left behind there for a minute?

BTW, what is the actual identity of Jeff's plant? I like it!

+oM

It's a Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Plumosa'...

+oM and TJ, the test kit I used is this one
http://www.amazon.com/Luster-Leaf-1601-Rapitest-Soil/dp/B0000DI845/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1351771530&sr=8-2&keywords=rapitest

Now I know that the reading probably doesn't anything.

Coniferjoy, you are right, I missed "pisifera" in the name of the plant...

Jeff

Hey, I you don't like those home soil test kits you could always get one of the $30 meters. Everyone knows they work great! NOT! People actually believe that cr*p!