Barbara, here is a quick list to start with that should be achievable with basic equipment, for me this would be very gritty acidic compost (home made) a seed tray with perspex top, and a north facing wall (no direct sunlight)

Abies - some - especially many koreana and a few balsamea cultivars. Try abies balsamea 'Hudsonia', 'Nana', 'Piccolo'. Plus koreana 'Silberlocke', 'Cis', 'Tundra', 'Kohout's Hexe'.
Chamaecyparis - all - especially pisifera cultivars and all those with juvenile foliage.
Cryptomeria - most.
Juniperus - most, especially communis, horizontalis, x pfitzeriana, procumbens, squamata, virginiana.
Picea - many, especially Picea abies 'Tompa', 'Little Gem', 'mariana Nana', Glauca var. albertiana cultivars like 'Conica', 'Alberta Globe''
, 'Arneson's Blue Variegated', 'Itty Bitty', 'Jean's Dilly', 'Rainbow's End', 'Tiny', etc.
Platycladus orientalis (Thuja orientalis) - all.
Podocarpus cultivars, if you can find them in the States.
Sequoia sempervirens cultivars like 'Adpressa' and 'Kelly's Prostrate' can be rooted if you feel confident ?
Taxus - all.
Tsuga canadensis - most.
Thuja - all.
some Tsuga heterophylla and mertensiana can also be rooted if you are once again feeling confident, try mertensiana 'Elizabeth'
Bluespruce.

Beautiful list Bluespruce...thank you!

What size/type of cuttings should be taken from the little guys like P.a. 'Little Gem', the smaller P.g. cultivars, or the miniature Chamaecyparis?

Barbara

Barbara,
Size of cuttings will vary with the type and size of the plant available. Picea abies 'Little Gem', you can use cuttings from about 1/2 to 1 inch, either single or multiple stem cuttings , the main thing is to have semi ripe wood at the base of the cutting. The smaller glauca cultivars are best with single stem cuttings, again about 1/2 to 1 inch long depending on material available. chamaecyparis would generally be one stem, but all juvenile and pisifera cultivars can be easily rooted as multiple stem cuttings.( by multiple stem I mean a single stem with multiple side branches)
Hope this makes sense ?

Boys and girls...where are your lists!?!

There hasn't been a major conifer propagation discussion recently...that I can find...please pass on the link and ignore all this if there is.

There was supposed to be a bunch of learnin' and sharin' going on here, with the next step being proposal of a cutting exchange.

Chamaecyparis obtusa cultivars anyone?

Hope to hear from y'all soon,

Barbara

I've been playing around with rooting the Chamaecyparis obtusas by taking different types of cuttings during the different seasons. The spring rootings are already larger than the ones taken in winter. The summer cuttings are mostly ready to pot up, and it's time for me to give the fall season a try.

This is my experience....may not be by the book. I'm hoping this posting will open up a discussion where we all can learn.

Newish green wood roots much faster than older brown. Heel cuttings don't seem to matter in the fast rooting cultivars, but may with the ones harder to root...that's something I still need to learn. 'Rigid Dwarf' will show roots within 3 weeks. 'Splitrock', 'Golden Ceramic', 'Leprechaun', 'Fernspray Gold', Pygmaea', 'Filicifolia', 'Verdon', C.l.'Saguaro' and C.p.'Tsukumo' also have rooted. However, C.l. "Elwood"s Pygmy" rooted the most reliably....but the mother plant and most her off-spring died this summer.

What was that joke I read.... the surprise in C.l. 'Surprise' is if it survives.

I'm using an aeroponic cloner because otherwise my cuttings were always too wet, too dry, too hot, too cold; you get the picture. I'll post a good link if you are interested to see what the cloner does. Anyway, the water is heated up to 70F in winter (consider this bottom heat) but is not monitored in other seasons. My most important trick is weekly adding "Dip n Grow" directly into the reservoir at the rate of 5 drops/2 Gallons water (this is equivalent to irrigating your cuttings with "Dip n Grow" laced water) A trick learned from an orchid grower.

All I have time to write for now.

Barbara

The cloner linked is different from mine, but pictures have the best diagram I could find...

Here is a link that might be useful: Cloner

Barbara, and there was I thinking you were a complete novice.

Hi folks. Thanks for all the information, Barbara.That cloner sure looks like quite an intelligent propagating device- and probably quite expensive too.For the time being I think I'll stick to alveolar pricking-out trays filled with my usual rooting compost (50%peat,25%perlite and 25% quartz sand) and try and make sure they don't dry out-the main reason why I've not had much succes in the past.We've raised tens of thousands of cacti and succulents from seeds and cuttings, but the process is quite different.In fact,we tend to be under-waterers rather than over-waterers; we never use misting devices and as our climate is quite dry, some adjustment is probably called for.Actually, I find it quite exciting to be a novice once again;learning something new is re-juvenating for me; unfortunately, I'm afraid too many people feel intimidated and turn away from the gardening hobby as a whole because they happen to bump into people who are undoubtedly very knowledgeable but who may have forgotten how to play, wich, in my opinion,is what gardening is all about (something wich many 'serious' gardeners-or collectors,for that matter-would probably refuse to admit, I'm sure).So, if Tunilla wants to take cuttings or graft a few Korean pines, WHO or WHAT is going to stop him? I'm not afraid of failing or making mistakes, you know ! Bye for now. T.

Thanks for your patient and kind responses.

I'm very isolated from fellow coniferites here, where the mention of propagating conifers makes most folks eyes glaze over. That makes me a bit overly excited about the prospect of learning from all your experience; books are great for ideal theory, while trial and error (though fun) can take an awful long time. Everyone's experience is different and we've all developed little tricks that work for us that others may not have thought of. I'm with Tunilla; love to learn, try new things, and have fun doing it. So, within the next couple of weeks I'll be setting up my cloners and try to start any conifer that can spare some foliage.

My best to you all,
Barbara

Barbara,
What cloner DO YOU have ?
Thanks,
Larry

I'm using the "Power Cloner" 70, and chose it because of the humidity dome.
They can occasionally be found at craigslist.org for less than half price.
Just ask if you have any specific questions.....

Barbara

For those of you who are not sure when to take conifer cuttings for propagagtion, the following may be of help.
The best time to take cuttings in order to get the highest percentage rooting of Abies; Chamaecypraris; Cryptomeria; Cupressus; Juniperus; Picea; Sequoia; Taxus; Thuja and Tsuga is during the month of February. The dormancy factor is normally satisfied by this time on this past season's growth. Do not take old wood as part of the cutting, only this past season's wood, basically you are taking a tip cutting two to three inches in length. This dormancy factor is satisfied by cold temperature(35 degrees Fahrenheit down into freezing temperatures) for at least 6 weeks time in our cold climate areas. This is the same dormancy factor required in many of our seed crops before germination will occur. This is not to say that conifer cuttings won't root any other time of the year but you will have the highest success rate by taking cuttings in February as long as you don't overdose on rooting compounds and/or cannot provide the proper environmental conditons during the propagation period. Hope this helps. Good luck! P.S. I am a retired professional grower and Professor of Horticulture for 45 years.

bush-2008....Is there different timing for those of us not in cold climate areas; can agricultural 'chill hours' be used as a guide?

Thanks!

Barbara

Hi all. I was about to start taking cuttings ,but you've got me hesitating now.February is the coldest month over here, sometimes with snow and,quite frankly,NOT the time of the year when I would go out with the secateurs to snip off cuttings from my beloved plants.But then again, it's not that long then untill springtime... . I take it that bottomheat is a must at that time ? Thanks for your participation. T.
PS.Does Bush mean 'retired' in America?

Tunilla...I'm very confused too about the best season to take cuttings of different genus in our climate here, so will continue on with the experimentation. Two cloners are filled (with two more to go) and plan on Fall, Winter, Spring, Summer trials.
I'll post results as they progress....

Barbara

Yes, I think I'll take some now as well but,as I haven't got that many large plants yet...better be careful as to what to try now or in february.T.

Hi Barbara and Tunilla,
For those especially in California it is best to wait until February because you do get cold enough temps. in the winter. It is all about Time and Temperature with the Temperature being accumulative over Time. The plants perceive the temperature during the winter months and the accumulative affect of the perceived temperature satisfies the dormancy. Tunilla in France with snow, you could probably start taking cuttings in January. Again, understand by waiting for the right time to take cuttings increases your chances of more cuttings successfuly rooting. The hormone rooting material basically encourages callusing of the basil end of the cutting and does not directly stimulate rooting. Be careful of the rooting chemicals as too much will burn the tissue of the cuttings. Bottom/media temperature is very important for callusing and root stimullation. 70-72 degrees Farhenheit. "Warm Feet and a Cool Head".

I haven't done a lot of conifers from cuttings, but I've rooted...

Podocarpus (many... all easy)
Dacrydium cupressinum
Lagarostrobos franklinii
Fitzroya cupressoides
Taxus brevifolia
Araucaria bidwillii (leading tip cutting)
Cupressus arizonica (several varieties), C. pseudohimalaica

No luck yet with....
Cupressus pygmae, C. macrocarpa
Sequoia sempervirens cultivars (trying again this year)

This year will also be my first attempt rooting Sequoiadendron (a blue cultivar)... we'll see how that goes.

This year I'm doing many more conifer cuttings than I have in the past, including Cunninghamia and some unusual Juniperus and Cupressus. It will be a while before I have any results of course.

I'd advise caution against adapting generalized rules about the best time for cuttings and what size the cuttings should be. For such a large and diverse group of plants there's no one-size-fits-all set of rules. More difficult selections should be tried under a variety of methods until a successful one can be determined for that plant.

THANK YOU for your advice and list Ian! I've been trying to root cuttings from my Cupressus macrocarpa 'Aurea Saligna' during different seasons for the past year. The current batch have been sitting there for 4 months and there is slight callusing. It was interesting to learn in an above post that rooting hormones initiate callus formation, but not the actual roots.

Please keep us updated with your propagation results.

Barbara

Barbara and Ian,
I lived in the Bay Area for 45 years where I was a Professor of Horticulture and a professonal grower for one of the largest comercial greenhouse operations in the country. I know what I am talking about. Most plant material for comercial propagation has been studied around the world and there has been all kinds of experimental trials in Horticultural schools to determine the best method of propagation of each. There is specific information that you need for every type of plant material you would ever want to propagate. Ian, Sequoia cuttings will callus very quickly but could take up to a year to root. I live on South Puget Sound and have planted several cultivars of Sequoia which I produced from cuttings in 2004 while still living in California. Out of 150 cuttings taken in February 2004, 150 of these cuttings all callused within 6 weeks but took several months to produce roots. 72 degree F bottom heat and overhead intermittent mist 24 hours a day. This is not generalizing!!

Mr.Bush,

We do not mean you any disrespect and read your postings with great interest. I am using an alternate method of propagation, an aeroponic cloner, and actually found that Spring cuttings of my Chamaecyparis obtusa rooted much faster than winter cuttings. I will continue using your instruction and experience as the ultimate guide, while having fun experimenting with different methods and timing for rooting conifer cuttings. You have given me a great jumping off point to improve my trials...keep it coming!

Sincerely yours,
Barbara

Question: when preparing juniper and cypress cuttings will rooting occur faster with the scales also removed on the basal end?

Barbara,
Thanks for the vote of confidence! I do not recommend causing anymore injury/open wounds on the basil end and/or stem of the cuttings as this is an avenue for infectious diseases to enter the stem tissue. Always use very sharp pruning clippers when taking the cuttings. Sterilize these clippers also. A clean cut leaves no ragged tissue upon which disease can enter the cuttings. The chemical rooting compounds generally do contain a fungicide. I prefer liquid rooting compounds which normally require soaking the basil end of the cuttings for a given period of time. There are different strengths/concentrations of these compounds depending upon whether you are propagating herbaceous or the many stages of woody materials. Powdered rooting compounds tend to excessively clump on the basil end of the cutting which burns the tissue and disease sets in which can contaminate your other cuttings in the propagation media. Follow the instructions on the label. When collecting cuttings, do not let the basil end of the cuttings become contaminated. Think clean from beginning to end. For those of you who want the no nonsense advice, use my e-mail address above.

My Sequoia cuttings did callous over quickly. I waited more than two years for roots and still didn't get anything. (In fact I think I still have the cuttings out there.... somewhere)

I'm not disputing your expertise either - just making a point that seemed relevant to this thread.

I grow many rare and unusual plants that are difficult to find propagation information for (mostly because they haven't been produced commercially very much, if at all). Availablity of information seems to be hit-and-miss, and sometimes limited in scope, so in some instances I do find it necessary to experiment. One more than one occasion I've had the pleasant surprise of rooting something that wasn't even supposed to be possible (not conifers though). I'll take more conifer cuttings later in the winter and see how that goes. I'll try to remember to check back in with my results.

I forgot to add to my list Chamaecyparis lawsoniana 'Blue Surprise' which rooted very easily for me. They're all still alive too. They seem to prefer gritty soil.

Hi Barbara,
I stumbled across this thread, which hasn't been active for 4 years, but I am interested in an update of your experience with an aeroponic cloner for dwarf conifers and other woody alpines, such as rhododendrons and half-woody subjects such as cassiopes.
Is there a more recent thread with such info?
Cheers,
Mike

Hello Mike,

Rooting conifer cuttings with an aeroponic cloner has been inconsistent for me. Beginners luck is long gone, now I'm back to attempting to replicate some of that original success. I'm no expert, but do enjoy the process of learning and trying new things.

Any plant that is water sensitive probably won't do well in the cloner as rotting due to excess wetness is my biggest problem. I'm currently running some informal trials using very dilute CaCl (pool shock) in the reservoirs plus have increased the amount of oxygen with a different air pump configuration. Also, the sprayer pump is on an interval timer so that it only runs for a few seconds every 15 minutes rather than spraying continuously.

I would definitely give it a try! As my husband likes to say, "nothing ventured nothing gained" and mine, "it's not a failure until you quit trying".

Have fun,
Barbara

Hi Barbara,
Many thanks for your reply.
It is rather as I had expected, but there is nothing like practical experience.
I do not have an aeroponic system, but I was considering buying one. From what you say and what I have been told by nurserymen, I think I would be better buying/making a system which provides bottom heat and just root in granite potting grit (korn size 1/32 - 1/8 inch. No fines.) on top of coarse sand.
Cheers,
Mike

is this too old to bump up again???

ken

Just wondering whether anyone has experience of using Rhizopon with conifer cuttings? It seems to be the only suitable rooting compound on the UK market at the moment.