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danielj_2009

Weeping Hemlock in NJ

danielj_2009
9 years ago

Hi all! I am a regular on the lawn care forum, but have never posted here before. I hope some of you can point me in the right direction on this.

I have a weeping hemlock that is approximately 60 years old. It had little to no special care for most of its life. I recall trying to spray it for wooly adelgid about 25 years ago. We rebuilt the house and relandscaped a few years ago, and cleaned up the brush around the hemlock. This last season it was fertilized and treated twice professionally for wooly adelgid. Hopefully that is taken care of. I was told the yellowing was typical of plants with adelgid.

Anyway, my question really has more to do with the upper branch of the tree. I've attached a series of photos. The first detailed photo shows a hole in the trunk that is damp and has loose debris in the hole that feels like soil. What is the best way to treat this? Also note some extended trunk damage that the tree seems to be healing over.

The third photo shows more of the adjacent branch, also damaged and healing over.

I'd like to get this tree back to good health (assuming it isn't too old for that). Should I clean out and plug that hole with something? Anything I should do about the bare sections of trunk?

Comments are very much appreciated!

Weeping Hemlock:

First detail:

Second detail:

Comments (55)

  • mikebotann
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Why does pruning make them more vulnerable? Increased new growth that they can eat?
    Mike

  • basic
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm not an arborist and have mis-pruned several trees over the years, especially early on. Based on this mis-guided experience, my advice is to do as little as possible! As Botann alludes to, the overriding purpose of any decision you make should be to lengthen the life of this beauty.

  • sc77 (6b MA)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Mike - Good question. I'm actually not sure. My neighbor is a longtime professional landscaper, with an amazing yard that includes several healthy Eastern hemlock. I was asking how his are unaffected by HWA while almost all the others in the area are a mess. He said, because everyone else is shearing theirs, opening up wounds on the trees. He also mentioned HWA can actually transfer from tree to tree on clothing, and obviously uncleaned tools.

    In terms of fertilizer, he said high nitrogen levels, especially while the tree is infested, can indeed surge the population of HWA, as the excess nitrogen feeds them.

    I have no way of validating his statements, but my observation is that unsheared specimens seem to avoid the disease better, although nearly all eventually get it

  • Embothrium
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Tree is not particularly green and would therefore probably benefit from at least being mulched with organic matter to increase the soil activity.

    Wounds and decay look to be the result of horrible excessive thinning cuts such as are often seen on orchard fruit trees and other kinds where people think the tree will be healthier if they "Open up the center to let in light and air".

    Since this is a conifer the idea may have been to give it a Japanese look. What they did manage to do was damage it severely.

  • mikebotann
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I don't know the variety of that Eastern Hemlock, but I had one similar to it that was very prone to splitting at the crotches, ripping the bark for a ways down the branch. Maybe this is the same variety.

    I can see where shearing, coupled with a lot of nitrogen would make a delicious, tender meal for the adelgids. Not so much with pruning off small branches though.
    I was under the impression that they only ate the needles, not wounds on the trunk or branches. Anybody know for sure?
    Mike

  • tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The adelgids actually suck the sap of new shoots causing the needles to die, so I can see fresh cuts ringing the dinner bell for them. Excess nitrogen means more sugars and that too draws them in. SC77's landscaper neighbor is correct as is bboy's suggestion of a good mulch.

    tj

  • Embothrium
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Well then maybe this one split also - this is not something I have seen myself.

    There is always a correct amount of fertilizer to apply, that will optimize the condition of the plant without producing problems. When people see adverse side effects from nitrogen (or other fertilizer ingredient) applications it is because they have used too much, not because they have used any at all.

    Or they have used an unsuitable formulation, such as an alkaline, rose type fertilizer on rhododendrons.

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow, what a great set of responses! Let me share a little more about this tree based on the comments, then I have some follow up questions. I've attached a pic from a few days ago. It is a little yellow, which I presume comes from the HWA. The affected area of dead trunk is the crotch on the left side, not the lower branch to the right.

    I can recall cutting that branch (the one with the hole in it) probably 30 years ago. I think a branch broke off, and I was removing a branch fragment. I recall trying to cut it as vertical as possible to allow water to run off (guess that didn't work!). In any case, it didn't have anything to do with Japanese gardening. It just grew the way it is now.

    When this tree was planted, they apparently lined the circular area with roof shingles. Before our relandscaping in 2013, there was a thicket of low growing junipers on that mound and down to the street. The mound is much steeper than it looks. So right now we left the larger stones in the mound as not to disturb the roots any more than already. There are still shards and remanants of roof tile in the mound but I am reluctant to remove the occasional larger piece because I don't want to damage any roots. I figure leave well enough alone.

    As far as the lawn and fertilizing, I use almost exclusively organic fertilizers including milorganite, soybean meal, alfalfa, corn meal. As you can see in the photo, I mulch in as many leaves as I can find in the fall.

    With that said, I have some more questions:

    1. I completely understand the recommendation to do nothing, as the hole isn't necessarily that big a problem. My landscape designer said he uses some kind of grease. He dries the hole and then fills it, capping it off with something else to keep the grease in. Also, when you cut a branch, often it is recommended to patch the cut with something to protect the open cut. Are these things incorrect? Where do you draw the line? For instance, I assume everybody would treat for HWA even though this tree seems to have weathered it OK. To me, it seems prudent to inspect it each spring and spray as needed, unless preventative treatment is recommended. What I'm taking from this is that a hole in a tree left alone will have no different effect than trying to fill the hole and keep it dry. This sounds counter-intuitive to me, honestly, but that's why I came to this forum. It seems like the water in the hole will accelerate deterioration and weakening of that trunk, no?

    2. The tree is a bit one-sided in that the branches overhang one side of the circular area, and hang over some of the grass. I treat the grass, but have never applied anything to the mulched area right under the tree. I've seen the comments not to fertilize, but why would an acidic fertilizer not be a good idea to help get this thing back to health after the HWA attack? My soil chemistry is geared toward benefitting the lawn. I've pretty much ignored the tree other than the tree company fertilizing in early July (which was probably a waste of money that time of year). Should I not do something, at least in the mulched area, to be sure the soil chemistry will maximize the health of the tree?

    3. Are the roots that matter located out near the edges of the branches (ie, under the grass) or are there important roots everywhere in that mulched mound area?

    4. I was told by the tree sprayers that hemlocks have shallow roots and I should be careful about over mulching. We don't want water to run down off the hill before the roots can absorb the water. I should say that there is now irrigation for the lawn that I run once a week to two weeks, and one nozzle to the bottom right in the photo does hit the tree. So I think it will have enough water. My question was about a lot of web-like, thin roots that run over that mound. I don't know if they are part of the hemlock, or if they are left over from the old junipers.

    5. Is this an eastern hemlock, a weeping eastern hemlock??

    6. I don't think pruning is an option as it is already a bit sparse. I believe it has had a lot of die off from the HWA over the years. Also, we had about 3 feet of snow last year and the hemlock made it through without any breaks (knock on tree trunk!). Right now there is about 6" of heavy snow here in NJ on top of the tree. It bends down to the ground in some spots, but doesn't seem to break. It was completely entombed in snow last year!

    Finally, it is nice to see that conifer experts find this an attractive tree. I really enjoy it. It's funny. Before re-landscaping, the property was a bit overgrown and a mess. That tree was surrounded by a thicket of low junipers and had lots of dead tree branches underneath the live ones. Once we redid everything, the neighbors started saying what a pretty tree that was. Nobody ever really noticed it until its surroundings were cleaned up. I think there is something to the idea of not ripping out everything that is old without considering what it will look like after renovation.

    OK, I've written my novel for the day... whew!

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Bump for any follow up help. Thanks!

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I've probably scared everybody off by writing so much...

    So I'm going to leave the hole alone as I understand doing "something" could make it worse than nothing.

    I am interested in the best way to combat HWA, though. If anybody has time to wade through my last post, recommendations to keep this tree in its best shape are appreciated. I've neglected it for so long that I want to keep it in good health going forward (without killing it with kindness).

  • Embothrium
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You have been badly advised more than once. Rather than addressing each falsehood with a time consuming point by point response let me just say if it were my tree the bed would be mulched with at least two inches of wood chips or similar material (kept off the trunk) and a suitable fertilizer product would be used per label directions.

    No goop of any kind would be put in or on the branch cavities.

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I added m!!ulch back in after I learned better. My concern at this point is mostly about treating for HWA properly and what should be done about proper fertilization if anything in the spring.

    Thanks!

  • sam_md
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Pictured here was a beautiful specimen of Weeping Hemlock in Pennsylvania, now it's a gonner.
    {{gwi:2124824}}
    Here is the culprit. If the adelgid cannot be controlled on a well-kept public garden, what is the chance it will be controlled in an average suburban setting, how about in the wild?
    I don't plant hemlocks and I don't recommend them to people who ask about them. We need to find some sort of control of the adelgid or else hemlocks are doomed.
    {{gwi:2124825}}

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow! I didn't know they got so big. I came back to the forum because I received a proposal from the tree company who did the adelgid control and fert last year. They want to set up an ongoing schedule to take care of it.

    I prefer to do it myself. Cheaper and I enjoy working in the yard. However, do they have access to chemicals that I might not be able to get? That's the only reason I could see for letting them do the work.

    Here's what they provide:
    spring fertilization
    wooly adelgid control
    horticultural oil in fall

    I imagine there are lots of things available for adelgid control off the shelf. How about the horticultural oil? What is it and is it readily available?

  • mmajicmann
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ok....I don't know if this was mentioned... but in a recent episode of 'this old house', Roger Cook was helping a guy clean up a large old crabapple tree....pruning, etc. He took out a 12"long half inch bit and drilled a drainage pathway from a 'crotch' area that was holding water at an angle that exited the trunk on the outside of the tree.... he told the homeowner to repeat once/year...wouldn't hurt the tree but would prolong it's health :)

  • davidrt28 (zone 7)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "Unfortunately, the treatment of woolly adelgid is a lifelong commitment."

    FWIW, I treated my 2 huge hemlocks w/generic Merit using the trunk drench method. That was in, IIRC, fall 2007 and fall 2008. They were completely killed off and have not come back. I'm probably helped by the fact that hemlocks have become uncommon landscape material. The only local hedge of them I knew about was cut down in the late 2000s, probably because it was infected.

    I'm not too far as the crow (or insect!) flies from Sasajiscymnus beetle release sites. But it seems very unlikely they've managed to make it here. I assume that without a suitable host the adelgids can't sustain themselves in a particular area; though I might be helped by the control beetles in the sense that they are killing off adelgids in the eastern Harford county forests that were previously a source of wind-born "innoculants" or whatever they call them in the lingo of entomology. I was surprised to read that there are native hemlock forests so close to the Chesapeake Bay, but there are. Area is called Broad Creek.

    Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.nativetreesociety.org/fieldtrips/maryland/md_hemlock/maryland_hemlock.htm

  • davidrt28 (zone 7)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Now that I think about it, it actually might have been spring of 2007 and fall of 2008. In any case, they have been free of them for at least 5 years. Total cost for 2 large trees was about $25, the cost of a quart of generic Merit at the time. Use the professional stuff for termite control, not the diluted junk at big box stores.

    This post was edited by davidrt28 on Sat, Jan 31, 15 at 13:47

  • plantkiller_il_5
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hort oil is easily available,,go to a good garden center
    that merit sounds promising
    ron

  • bengz6westmd
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Adelgids in my area disappeared for a few yrs, now they're back in limited numbers, so surviving hemlocks continue to suffer.

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Anybody see a problem with the "drill a hole in the trunk" method? I'm sure the guys who have already spoken up will have a reason that it is not a good idea. I'm just curious what that reason is.

    Thanks!

  • davidrt28 (zone 7)
    9 years ago

    I just don't think it's necessary. In my case I just dissolved a quart of the very concentrated limidacloprid (something like 25%) in a big bucket, and drenched the soil around the trunks. The adelgids were gone in a couple months. Maybe for more serious infections, you'd have to use the drilling method.

  • davidrt28 (zone 7)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is the brand I used: http://www.chemicaloutfitters.com/dominion2limidaclopridconcentrate1gallon.aspx


    FWIW, it's taken the more seriously damaged tree years to recover a fullish crown. It's possible that this treatment can't save a tree that is too near death.

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    David - the "drill a hole method" was not for pest control. I have a large hole in the crotch of the trunk (see photo above) and everybody here said just to leave it be. Someone mentioned he saw on TV where they drill a hole through the side of the trunk so that the original hole in the tree can drain and stay dry.

  • davidrt28 (zone 7)
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oh, in that case sorry for the misunderstanding. I think what wisconsintom wrote makes the most sense.

  • wisconsitom
    8 years ago

    Since this thing resurfaced-OP-what did you end up doing? Hemlocks are about as nice a landscape plant as there is, IMO, and it is just plain heart-breaking to see what's happening out east. Where my land is-NE WI-hemlock is one of the most common forest trees. I shudder to think what could be coming. We don't "have" HWA, so far as confirmed findings, yet.

    Just a side note, since we're on hemlocks: The Chinese hemlock has much the look and most of the aesthetic appeal of our eastern NA variety, and is highly resistant to HWA.
    A big chunk of my occupation involves "native restoration", yet I feel like I'm a part of a small group who is seeing beyond the all-natives-all-the-time paradigm....that if we are to retain these various ecological niches as one introduced insect or pathogen after another takes whole genuses out of our systems, we will simply have to adopt a wider view, one which indeed does accept the use of non-native plants. I'm the same way with Norway spruce-it seems more vigorous-here anyway-than our native spruces, is certainly more well-adpated to high atmospheric moisture than P. pungens and all the rest of the Rocky Mts. stuff, and can blend in with native northern forests very well. I know....I'm weird!

    +oM

  • sc77 (6b MA)
    8 years ago

    +oM, I agree 100%. The Eastern hemlock played such a major role in the forests of the east coast. There are very few conifers that can thrive as an understory plant the way the hemlock can. Your area it likely cold enough that HWA will never pose a significant problem, just 50-100 miles north of me in New Hampshire, the Eastern Hemlock still thrives, mostly pest free (for now), yet in MA wild hemlocks don't stand a chance. Even those at arboretums have been overtaken by the pest.

    The Arnold Arboretum has done significant research into this subject, starting in the early 90's. They considered introducing predators of the wooly adelgid and programs to spray the trees, but in the end determined the Eastern hemlock could not be saved. It was at that time they began experimenting with and documenting alternatives. They found that the Chinese hemlock was nearly 100% resistant to HWA, even when the surrounding Eastern hemlocks were being killed by them. Japanese hemlock also showed very strong resistance. After visiting the Arnold, and seeing there now 20+ year old Chinese hemlocks thriving on the renewed Hemlock hill, I was sold on this approach. They look just like eastern hemlock, very few could distinguish between the two species.

    Chinese hemlock is fully z6 hardy, and for those North of here Japanese Hemlock is fully z5 hardy, maybe even z4. Although Japanese hemlock isn't as nice looking and slower growing than the other two species, it is still an excellent tree that can tolerate heavy shady, just like the others in the genus. I am currently growing about 50 of each of these from seed, they just started sprouting.


  • wisconsitom
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Very cool, SC. Tell me this: What's your view on purposely allowing hybridization between, say, the Chinese and Canadian hemlocks, so as to see if a resistant hybrid might not develop? This concept too gets a very poor reception among native species purists, it being in their view the ultimate loss of a species from the landscape. I disagree. To my way of thinking, the wholesale loss of the plant from an entire region is far more troubling than a subtle shift in plant characteristics as it intergrades with its cousin. Nature was never static anyway, which is the biggest point of departure between people like myself and those giants of the restoration industry, who are all too often, IMO, trying to force the wrong plant community on a given area anyway. By that I mean, it was Curtis, et al who really started this thing. Yes, they were great scientists and they did a lot of work in my state, but they were in the far south of Wisconsin, an area that's as different from where I live and work as say, Kansas is from eastern Louisiana. I better quit, lol! I can get pretty worked up about this topic!

    +oM

    ps....OK I can't resist: All those guys think the entire world was prairie! Evidently, they never heard of Paul Bunyan! And in any case, most of the northern midwest prairie was a purely anthropogenic construct: The Indians weren't dumb. They knew that by burning the place, more wildlife would be around, the gardening would be easier, etc. But that was never a thing around Green Bay to any meaningful extent.

  • sc77 (6b MA)
    8 years ago

    I'm just a backyard tree collector, so I have no idea of what potential concerns a professional may have with hybridization, but I certainly have no issue with it. I have a particular fascination with Tsuga, and know that hybridization was something that has been tried. For some unknown reason, Carolina could hybridize with Chinensis, but Eastern Hemlock could not. Apparently, they concluded that the Carolina hemlock is much closer to the Asian species than to the Eastern.
    There may have been further attempts to hybridize the Eastern hemlock that I am not aware of, but due to the bullet proof resistance to HWA and similar look, I think most concluded Chinese hemlock was the best route.

    Some light reading:
    http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/nov10/hemlocks1110.htm
    http://arboretum.harvard.edu/wp-content/uploads/JArboriculture-Chinese-Hemlock.pdf
    http://arnoldia.arboretum.harvard.edu/pdf/articles/658.pdf
    http://arboretum.harvard.edu/plants/featured-plants/hemlock-hill/
    http://arnoldia.arboretum.harvard.edu/pdf/articles/2010-68-2-chinese-hemlock-tsuga-chinesis.pdf

  • wisconsitom
    8 years ago

    Thanks bud. I'll try to get through some of that tomorrow.

    +oM

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Wisconsitom: I'm the OP. I actually haven't done anything with the hemlock. I wrote the original post in November, so there hasn't been much I could do so far. I will do a preventative HWA treatment at whatever time is recommended on the bottle, and follow ups as needed with the oil. I'm not planning to do anything with the trunk as recommended here.

    This winter we had a lot of snow in late winter, and the tree was nearly covered completely again. I think I lost the needles on one small branch near the bottom. Otherwise, it seems fine!

    Thanks for asking!
    Dan


  • wisconsitom
    8 years ago

    Generally, snow is a good thing for such plants, aside from any actual branch breakage that might occur. Sounds like you're on it. I'd take steps to save that plant too. Some will cry foul over my next statement, but I might apply a light-I really do mean light-fertilizer application in the vicinity of the plant. That above and beyond the organic program you've already got going for your lawn, but still, very moderate. And remember, this thing's roots are apt to be well beyond its dripline. Nothing magical about the dripline of plants. Roots go where they can, which is often quite far.

    +oM

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    wisconsitom: I assume an acidic fertilizer like holly tone or similar? What's the debate about with fertilizer? If I have a plant that has been stressed most of its life by HWA, but now I've eliminated it, what's the harm in assuring that it has the nutrients to help get it back to full strength? I can understand not forcing growth, but I don't think that's what you are suggesting.


  • wisconsitom
    8 years ago

    Well, that thing is based on the fact that adelgids, and for that matter, quite a few other foliage-eating and sucking insects, like foliage high in N. So while it is true you want the plant to get what it needs-and I agree, it's a bit chlorotic (yellow, sometimes from lack of a certain nutrient), you don't want to bump it into extra-attractive-to-insects territory. Kind of a conundrum. From the plant's appearance, I do believe it is lacking in something.

    So, hemlocks do their best in an acidic soil. Most high-rainfall areas end up having acid pH soils, due to the leaching out of cations, like calcium, magnesium, etc. It might be best to test soil pH (Did you do that already? I forget) to make sure it is above the preferred range for hemlocks. That info is available on the web. Because the chlorosis could be an iron or manganese (not magnesium) deficiency, which the acid fertilizer would also help alleviate. I'm just receiving this post on my email, so I don't want to track back up through the thread, but let's start there: Do you know the soil pH?

    +oM

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    I had a detailed soil analysis done last year, and have an expert "soil whisperer" over on the lawn care forum helping me to slowly adjust the soil nutrients. As of last year, the soil was almost perfect, albeit a little low in this and that, but not terribly so. Iron was a little low and spent last year upping that. pH was 6.1.


  • wisconsitom
    8 years ago

    sounds right-on to me. Just continue to observe the appearance of the Tsuga foliage. That can often be your best guide, although, as I've argued here before, when somebody, even a "soil whisperer"-love that..says the soil is a little low in this or that nutrient, what crop is this being based upon? And do we really know the exact parameters for say, a hemlock tree. Yes, we do have good information from places like USDA Forest Service, but how applicable are these numbers to our urban landscape sites.

    In any case, I'd say you're close.

    +oM

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Well, the analysis and recommended amendments were meant purely for the lawn. I don't really know what hemlocks need. That's why I was wondering whether to use an acidic fert like holly tone or other.

    Oh, and my new word of the day is "tsuga." Thanks!


  • Mike McGarvey
    8 years ago

    I'd be a little careful with blanket broadcasting weed killer herbicides near your Tsuga, especially since the roots probably extend out beyond the dripline.
    Mike


  • wisconsitom
    8 years ago

    I didn't see that-reference to herbicides. Yes, of course, always do be careful when using herbicides! And some are worse than others near trees. Imprellis-now taken off the market-killed thousands of large conifers here in the upper midwest. Dicamba is another, in this case, active ingredient, to watch out for.

    I was saying that that pH should be in the range of acceptability for hemlock. These trees not only prefer somewhat acid conditions, they create it too via their dropped needles, etc. That said, a mild application of an acid fertilizer-one having its N source being urea and/or ammonium, will not take things awry. You will have to decide though, on what level of extra-green ring of turf you can handle visually, the fertilizer causing extra greening of that as well as of the tree. If your mulched area around the tree is of good size, I suppose you could avoid that issue by restricting the fertilizer to the mulched area only. The tree doesn't see it that way though, its roots surely extending beyond. But it still might work well enough.

    +om

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Last year I did use Preen, sprinkled onto the mulched areas to prevent weed germination. I assume it isn't an issue because I think it works by preventing the weed seeds from developing. I generally don't use broadcast herbicides, but occasionally (and carefully) have spot sprayed for dandelions in/around the hemlock. I think the spray said to be careful around shrubs, but I'd have to read the fine print again.


  • wisconsitom
    8 years ago

    Daniel, Preen is indeed a pre-emergence herbicide as you said. But these items generally work on bare mineral soil, not through mulch. In any case, where there's mulch, new weeds shouldn't be able to get started. I wouldn't bother doing that again. Now, if you have a rhizomatous, perennial weed growing in and around the mulched beds, those can and do easily continue to exist . but the pre-emergents wouldn't control them anyway. that's what your backpack sprayer and a bit of glyphosate are for. The spot-spraying you've done should not generally have been a problem for the hemlock. Provided it's a phenoxy herbicide-I'm not saying these things are innocuous-and you truly are being careful, which I'm sure you are being, no problemo.

    +oM

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    OK, good to know. Thanks!


  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Resurrecting an old thread here:

    I'm inspecting my weeping hemlock for adelgid and for the most part I do not see any white fluffy spots. However, there are some very small amounts here and there. Also, I've cleared some brush out in the back yard to leave more space for a nice hemlock tree (maybe 15' high or so) that was starting to get crowded out. Apparently my neighbor planted it years ago on the property line (actually on my side). It looks healthy, but I'm seeing a good amount of white adelgid spots. What can I use this time of year (June) that will help both plants? I'm reading that oils and/or insecticidal soaps are safer but may not work as well. (Oils are only for the fall as well?). Does anybody have a recommendation for a foliar application they think will be effective?


  • tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
    8 years ago

    Blast it with water for starters.

    tj


  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    I'll start with that. Is it possible to have adelgid without the white wooly part? If say 95% of the hemlock looks fine is it best just to blast the whole thing anyway?


  • tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
    8 years ago

    No harm in an overall bath/shower. Any spider mites or other critters will also be set back.

    tj


  • sam_md
    8 years ago


    danielj, did you ever wake up one morning in a purple mood? It is amazing what a few cans of purple spray paint can do. I call this the B'more Ravens Tree.

  • danielj_2009
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    sam is that for real or some kind of editing trick? I scrolled this thread back up and see that the tree had died already. Kind of cool, yet a little sad!

    My hemlock has lost some foliage but I left the dead branches on until the spring when I can be sure of what made it and what didn't. It's a shame because it lived a long time in relative squalor and I can't help but think the renovations around the tree were harder on it than we thought. Hopefully it will recover and hold on to what it has remaining.

  • sam_md
    8 years ago

    Editing trick! Who me????

  • sam_md
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Purple Hemlock It's kind of a have lemons make lemonade statement.

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