Violet, dear, just curious, and Im sure I speak for many here at the Vegy forum....but are you writing a book? Or shall I ask Have you written a book? Now dont take me the wrong way, Im just asking a simple polite question, And by no means you dont have to answer me, but I (we) were just wondering if Ya got a book out there somewhere on the Market. Well....Ya know? If Ya did...me, Myself I would like to go and read it. It could be in my local Mall or at Wally world? Well anyway let us know, and Good gardenin to Ya!

blanesgarden,

Funny, I've been told that before. Lol... no, nothing planned. So far you can only check out any advice I might have to share here at the Vegetable Forums of GardenWeb. Hopefully the thoughts help a few people along the way...

;)

Hi violet,
I think I remember you putting this up last year too...I am glad that you put it up again though because it seems that everything that I learned last year either doesn't apply to this years "mood" (weather) or I've completely forgotten it...so to you...THANK YOU...you have saved my garden (from me).

melanie

Excellent information Violet!

Blane, Violet IS a writer. She's been a long time contributor to gardenweb for many years. She's written or contributed to many of the FAQ's here. She's shared her knowledge and has proven herself to be an encyclopedia of info...or "yellow pages" for gardeners everywhere... Do a search on her name to see her contibutions.

She makes no small talk...just states the facts as she knows them.

yea ....I know....

Man...if she's just making all that up, there are going to be 100's of miserable gardeners out there. Myself included.

;)

Me too clockwork. But I'm much less miserable now with these techniques.

;)

More:

As long as it's warm enough, you can transplant directly ASAP. The smaller they are the better because the sooner they'll get established in your garden, the longer they have to get settled in their permanent home. And the healthier and happier they will be so long as you have prepped the soil properly with lots of compost.

As for hardening off transplants, the easiest way to do it is to leave them against the east side of the house before you leave for work and bring them out three feet every day until they are far enough away that they are in full sun all day. At the stage you explain you can probably leave them 9-12 feet out from the house.

You can be creative, it doesn't have to be a house, can be a tree, bush, etc.

The reason most seedlings need to be "hardened off" is because they have been grown indoors without exposure to temperature fluctuation, full sun, wind, rain, etc.

Tiny seedlings (far smaller than 1-2 inch, more like 1/4 - 1/2 of an inch) do not need to be hardened off because they haven't learned to be weak in the first place. I'm talkin' teeeeeeny tiny! Best not to use inches though since there is such a wide variation. The best time is when the cotyledon leaves have developed - so even before the first true leaf stage.

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In less than a week they'll look like this:

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And in about two weeks like this:
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Keep in mind that I did say above that this is ok ***only if temperatures are within the accepted outdoor range for that variety of plant***. Protection from critters can be as simple as a toilet paper roll cut in half.

If you want to try your own experiment, try planting a bunch of seeds of whatever you want to plant. Try planting some out as mentioned above, and then allow some to continue to grow indoors and then harden them off, see which do better. The key is to not plant them outside of their temperature range. If you can't help it, start some more seeds later and plant them out as soon as they emerge or even better, direct sow.

The problem is that many people get spring fever and start seeds indoors too early for that variety in their area. They think they're getting a head start and in some cases they really are if they're caring for them properly. But in other cases, the seedlings are weak and leggy and stressed to begin with. Hardening off helps but the plant is stunted due to stress. If you plant the same seeds at the proper time, you'll likely find that they will grow faster, healthier, larger and produce a higher yield than the seedlings grown indoors weeks before.

If you're going to determing planting out, it is more accurate to measure soil temperature instead of day and night temps.

Soil 40 degrees F: Plant endive, lettuce and pea seed.

Soil 45 degrees F: Plant carrot, radish and spinach seed. Set out cabbage transplants, potato starts and onion sets.

Soil 50 degrees F: Plant beet, parsley, parsnip and Swiss chard seed.

Soil 60 degrees F: Plant snap bean, sweet corn, cucumber and turnip seed. Set out tomato seedlings.

Soil 65 degrees F: Plant lima bean seed.

Soil 70 degrees F: Plant okra, southern peas, squash, pumpkin and watermelon seed. Set out eggplant and pepper transplants.

Soil 75 degrees F: Plant cantalope seed. Set out sweet potatoes.

If you want to make your plants happy, collect rain water and warm it in the sun for a day. Give it to them to drink and make sure you have provided plenty of compost. If you did not incorporate it into your soil before planting, then put down a couple of inches worth of compost around your plantings. Don't walk on your soil and compact it or the roots won't be able to breathe as easily. Watch for signs of pests or disease.

Violet I was wondering if you could tell me or show me how to seperate seedlings? Being my first year gardining I think I planeted a lil to heavy in my seedling containers.....(Strawberry Packages...) and I was wondering if you could help a newbie. thanks

Jason

Yes, I've often had direct-seeded stuff catch up to or even pass the transplants. I don't have a greenhouse, so the only thing I start inside is tomatoes. I have good success with cold-frames, where I find seeds will germinate four to six weeks earlier than otherwise. If they are appropriate crops they will grow moderately well in a cold-frame. That trick of warming up water in the sun is very useful in the early spring. I make the cold-frame on a well-prepared bed so that when the weather gets fully settled I remove the glass entirely and leave some of the plants to grow on, so they were effectively direct-seeded.

Hotbeds from manure are very effective; I've had salad crops in march. These sorts of mini-greenhouses are easy and cheap, and they avoid most of the pest problems that plague permanent greenhouses.

Violet,
Question re: soil temperature. At what time of day and at what depth should the temperature be taken?

I've never planted by soil temperature; I've always planted by date and weather so I'm interested in trying a new technique.

Thanks for the help.

Hi jasonp,

The key to separation is to not sow/plant closely to begin with. A little patience in the beginning means a lot less work the next. If your strawberry plants are fruiting, I'd consider leaving them alone. Do a little research on variety to see if you need to be planting the runners later this season.

If you feel you can separate, do so in evening shade on a non-windy day having not watered for a day or two. Be gentle. If the roots are really intertwined, you'll have to take a bundle, shake off soil, hold the base of the crowns and gently try to pull apart. If they are not so intertwined, try to keep as much of the existing soil around the roots as intact as possible.

Plant they way you intend and water in preferably with sun warmed rain water.

Hi moosemac,

Soil temperature is relatively stable and constant. You want to measure to a depth equivalent to the roots of what your planting - usually 6 inches. They'll get longer and deeper later but the temps will rise as well. What you're concerned about is now. Take a thermometer with a long probe and insert it at an angle so that the bottom tip and the top of the thermometer are within those six inches. Leave it in for a minute or two... go check your other plants in the meantime, then check the temp.

Another way to determine when to plant is to start a garden journal to document when your native plants (flowers, trees, etc) and weeds start blooming or coming out of the ground. This would be the best way to figure out what to plant when because nature is giving you the signals.

I think I messed up I ment I planted the seeds in the strawberry packages. I have lemon, lime, and cinnamon Basil. Collard Greens, Swiss Chard and Cilantro seedlings you would probly do the samething right?

Right jasonp. But do so asap. The smaller the better, and you may as well transplant them to their final destinations. If you feel you need protection from pests that like seedslings, you can put "collars" around them from toilet paper rolls, cans, etc.

Short answer, perhaps. Since Eggplant is in the same family as Tomatoes, they are similar. I easily and successfully separate many small tomato plants every year after they have the first one or two sets of true leaves.

Just take your trowel and dig up that clump getting as much of the roots as possible. Have the cups and potting soil that they are going into ready. Grasp the root ball with both hands and gently wiggle and pull till it separates. The roots are usually intertwined and there will be some damage no doubt, but not as much as one may think. Over 95% of the time my plants do not even wilt. I put them immediately into the cups with the potting soil, firm it around the roots and water them well.

I think that you will be pleased with the result.
Bill P.

Hey, gonefishin.... Think you meant to post that here.

*wink*

Violet, Thanks for posting this info. about transplanting. I didn't know about ' If in a container, submerge the container in a bucket or tub of water and hold it down until all air bubbles are out. Then leave it there for 20 minutes so it can take a good, long drink.'
That's great. Wish I had known this sooner. You have been and are very helpful.
D.

Interesting - I have a problem with a couple of my pepper plants too close together. Now that they have peppers growing on them, is it too late to dig up both plants and separate them? They are VERY close together...

I'm wondering this as the hot weather is really here now, and would like to get these things bigger!