I use lots of hay and/or straw and would definitely recommend it. Mulch in general is critically important, and hay/straw in particular is very effective. Now there are those who will say you should use straw instead of hay because it contains fewer weed seeds. That is certainly true, but if you use as much of it as Ruth Stout recommended, weeds just won't be a problem, period.

Anyway, I'm not sure if I'd say I have "totally implemented" such a system, as I try lots of different soil management systems, but it's fair to say I use a lot of straw (or hay). The results are impressive. My latest success with straw was actually with roses... I decided to incorporate some tea roses into my potager vegetable garden this year. In the past, I've never had much luck growing teas, but I figured that since I was putting them in the vegetable garden, I would treat them just as I treat the vegetables, which means mulching with lots of straw. They did fantastic! Some grew over 5' tall, which I have NEVER had happen before, and the blooms were tremendous.

The only drawback is that critters like the shelter afforded by the straw. This year we found a litter of baby bunnies nestled in among the cabbages! I decided to leave them alone (even though bunnies and vegetables don't mix), but our dumb dog discovered them after we did and apparently decided they would make a nice snack. Poor things. :-(

Anyway, I definitely recommend it - give it a shot!

-Diggity

Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Imperative

Her methods, and methods similar to what you describe (commonly called 'lasagna gardening'), have often been discussed over the years in many of the forums here (linked some of the past discussions below).

You'll also find many ongoing discussions on 'lasagna' bed building over on the Soil & Compost forum here if you wish to read through them and a website called Lasagna Gardening 101 is a great resource to explore.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Ruth Stout discussions

My garden is permanent beds (not raised) in permanent mulch. I use hay--the key is to get hay that has been properly cut, i.e. before seeding out, but is cheap because it has been spoiled by rain. Straw is so expensive that i wouldn't even consider it. The paths are wood chips, and, of course, I never till. It's a great garden, easy to maintain, grows great crops, and I don't use a hoe from one year to the next.

As usual, I thank all of you who have provided your thoughts and experiences. In considering my solid, heavy, all too often WET Georgia clay, I am concerned with the Lasagna system as it suggests putting a barrier such as newspaper or cardboard over the soil. Something tells me that if I do that, the clay beneath, especially in times of rain would soon become an airtight sodden mess. Walking on or even working clay when even a little bit wet rseults in a brick-like surface of clods that can take years to repair, while also leaving a hardpan surface that would be totally devoid of air. Maybe one approach would be to put some of that compost into the clay by shallow tillage and then using the hay and more compost/manure as a more natural/transitional layer. This way the plants would have all of the benefits of the tops layers while the clay and soil life beneath would also benefit and contribute.

The cardboard will eventually rot and be "tilled" into the soil below by earthworms, so I doubt the soil below would be negatively affected. Still, if you can till some organic matter into that clay, it would be all good imho. Compost is great for lightening up clay.

And if you use hay, be sure not to use coastal or Johnson grass hays. Those are so invasive that they'd sprout in your garden, even if dry, and you'd have to take drastic measures to eradicate them.

Agreed. The cardboard or paper is purely optional and while it's greatly beneficial as both a weed control and soil improver as it decomposes over time, it isn't required. What is more important is to build the beds so that walking on them can be avoided - so no compaction problems.

Dave

I'm trying this now as a means to combat weed pressure - my soil is so clay (all together - How Clay Is It?!) that I generally cannot use a hoe on it - hoes bounce off, and I snapped my colinear hoe; and weeds break off at the surface instead of pulling free.

Have layered 23? Bales straw over pretty much entire garden. Need to get some manure in the places where no beds yet, and am planning another layer over all in spring.

FYI cardboard over clay will not survive as a sheet material one season, and is gone in two (single layer reg. corregated card.

Keep us posted on your results/progress.

Hi All, this is my first year trying Lasagna, Ruth Stout, method. Free, cheap, hay was common this year around here. Tried it where I planted Brocolli, peppers, and Brusels. Slugs at first were problematic but solved that by hilling clay dirt around the plants. Sprinkled some sharp contractors sand on top of the entire bed. Half a bag to a fifteen by twenty in gound bed. Later, mulched with homemade woodchips then grass clippings. Never weed issues. With all the rain we had no apparent wet feet issues. Great harvest. For fall and winter I grew Oats, Spring Wheat, Buckwheat, and Annual Rye Grass, all should Winter kill. Buckwheat frost killed a few weeks ago. Will continue next year. I already have a good supply of hay. Best regards.

I'm moving toward a variation of the mulch concept; I've mulched the beds with grass clippings for the winter. In the spring I'll be mulching with unfinished compost after the plants have gotten established. I'll cover the unfinished compost with mulch.

Unfinished compost inhibits seed germination and root growth.

pagardner,

You mentioned sharp contractor's sand......I have asked a sand and gravel business what sharp sand is and draw a blank. Can you help me to better identify the animal?

Hi Wayne, perhaps I should have just stated contractor's sand. Lowes sells two kinds of bagged sand. One is Play Sand and the other is Contractors Sand. Play sand is smooth and consistent in size. The Contractor Sand is very coarse and with sharp edges. My theory was that the slugs may get cut crawling over it and may add some nutrients. Best regards.

I used this method for many years and found it most useful for paths and walkways between beds or growing areas. Small seedlings tend to get lost in the straw, so the straw has to be pulled away and well marked. I would use either tomato cages or sticks next to each plant. When I wanted to seed an area it needed to be completely cleared of straw for seeding. After the seeds sprouted, I usually used grass clippings to mulch around them because soft, short grass clippings are easier to manipulate around delicate seedlings than straw or hay.

It worked well with my very large, sandy soiled garden. Now I garden in narrow raised beds - intensive type gardens. I do continue to use straw or hay, but it is well rotted. I buy the bales in the fall and pile them around the well house for insulation. In the spring they are transformed into cold frames. From there they become the walls of my compost piles. I cold-compost, so by the time the compost is ready, so is the straw/hay bale - usually 2 summers.

Anyway, yes, it was effective for a large garden space (50'x60') that is mostly organized in traditional or wide rows with walking paths. However, I find that the intensive, raised bed method I currently use more productive, per square foot, and more attractive by miles.

Kay.