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dreamywhite

perennials .. direct sow fall method .. newbie has questions

dreamywhite
11 years ago

Hi everyone, this newbie needs some advice on how to direct sow perennials in fall zone 5 (Wisconsin). We will be getting around to finally getting our flower beds designed and put together hopefully by September. I want more of an old english wild looking landscaping around my house. I am looking at only direct sowing perennials. Not too picky on which ones as long as they are hardy, colorful and easy to care for. The easiest and most cost effective way would be to fall direct sow once the beds are ready. But I have some questions. Will the seeds germinate only next spring if I sow in October? Should I put traditional bark mulch over the seeds on the beds or should I wait until next spring after the cold winter to do this once the flowers have come up? Any advise for me would be great. I was going to indoor sow seedlings but I think this direct sow method would be less time consuming if I can find the right seeds to sow.

Thank you

Comments (2)

  • grandmachris
    11 years ago

    Dear Dreamywhite

    Hi. Welcome to the Cottage garden website. For fast results next spring I'd suggest that you consider fall sowing of some hardy annuals. Larkspur, annual poppy (bread seed poppy, esp.) Larkspur will come up this fall but most of it should survive fine. Money plant (lunaria annua) is another good choice though seed sown this fall may not bloom until 2014. An advantage of these flowers I've mentioned is that they are rather "airy" and fit in between more substantial plants and their seedlings are easily pulled up if they come in the "wrong" place.

    Mostly I would suggest that you go to the Winter Sowing forum on gardenweb. These gardeners use a method that is much easier than indoor seedlings. Seeds are planted in late Dec. through Feb.(perhaps Jan. through March in Wisc.)
    Recycled containers are used--gallon milk jugs and 2 liter bottles. Potting soil is used for the medium and the containers are ventilated by poking holes. The containers are watered and then placed outside!! Snow, ice, cold rain are not problems. If they can be placed where they have some protection from heavy winds that is helpful.

    This method works well for Perennials, Biennials, and annuals. Some of the things that Winter Sowers have done successfully are coneflowers, rudbeckia, foxglove,baptisia,
    lupins. Any plants that benefit by stratification (alternate cold and warm phases during germination) do especially well.

    Advantages: Seeds more protected than in open ground. Seeds will germinate at their own time, depending on the weather of the particular year. Seedlings do not require
    conditioning since they've been outside for their whole lives. Seedlings seem to be especially sturdy.

    Disadvantages: Cautions, might be better. Early spring
    is the danger time, especially if there is unseasonably warm spell. Containers need to be opened to air when it gets warm. This is the only time that the sower needs to water the plants.

    Check out the Winter Sowing forum and also check out Trudi's
    Website at Wintersowing.org.

    This gardener who has been working in the same place since
    1977 has a bit of envy for your blank slate.

    Chris

  • ianna
    11 years ago

    I agree with Chris' suggestion. use a combination of reseeding annuals and do wintersowing for perennials. In fact, perennials will not bloom in the same year they germinate so in the meantime, use annuals to fill in spaces.

    or if you wish to get a better (cheap)head start, try your hand at growing new plants out of cuttings. I have done this with stems of lavenders, boxwoods, hydrangeas. you can also do this with corral bells, sedum autumn joy.

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