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For the landscapers amongst us....
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Posted by memo Zone 4B Nebraska (My Page) on Sun, Oct 25, 09 at 23:33
| I have a new yard to landscape next spring. It's a little more than a quarter acre, blank slate, completely flat with sandy soil. I did a search on ArborDay.org and have a list of about 12 evergreen trees and 4 evergreen shrubs that will work in my zone, soil type, full sun exposure etc. I want to make a very attractive windbreak that will be the back drop to a new garden. I also want to work some deciduous trees into the tree border. My question is how to go about choosing and placing the trees so it doesn't look like a hodge-podge of trees or too many of too few varieties. The wind break will enclose all of the north side and about 1/3 of both the east and west sides of the property. I'd like it to block the winds but I'd also like it to feel park like. I'll appreciate your input.
MeMo |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| Wow! What a great idea. Sorry I don't have any specific suggestions, but it sounds like a great plan. What trees did you research suggest? A lot of people here use blue spruce as wind breaks. Your deciduous trees would look nice if they had blocks of color in the fall. Maybe some aspens in one area and maples in another. I have a friend who used pines trees and aspens together to screen his back yard (about 1/4 acre) and it's just beautiful. He was just screening his fence and used shrubs to fill in the gaps below the pine trees. |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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- Posted by memo Zone 4B Nebraska (My Page) on
Mon, Oct 26, 09 at 2:50
Thank you, Lanvender Lass. Arbor Day.org suggested the following: Douglas Fir, White Fir, Austrian Pine, Lodge Pole Pine, Pacific Ponderosa Pine (a local choice), Scots (or Scotch) Pine, White Pine, Black Hills Spruce, Colorado Blue Spruce (have 2 in the yard now), Norway Spruce, Oriental Spruce, Serbian Spruce. For evergreen shrubs they suggested: Green Velvet Boxwood, Canadian Hemlock, Bar Harbor Juniper, and Mugo Pine. The choices in deciduous trees and shrubs are overwhelming. I'm ruling out the following because they are roosting habitat for either owls or hawks: Austrian Pine, Scots Pine, Norway Spruce. I'd like to have a few chickens and I can't do that when I'm knowingly providing habitat for hawks and owls. I guess you can take the farm girl to town but you can't take the farm out of the girl. Ha! MeMo |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| You might consider what native plants/small trees would work as understory for your trees. Then do a shrub border in front of them. This would give it a more natural look. Kathy |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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- Posted by jkom51 Z9 CA/Sunset 17 (My Page) on
Mon, Oct 26, 09 at 11:22
| Lesson #1: don't plant your trees all in a row! Stagger them, just as Nature would do. Use gently curving lines so that the eye is fooled into thinking there's a path 'around the bend', so to speak. What a wonderful landscape you have the chance to create! Good luck and post some pix when you're done. |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| Guess I have been away longer than I realized. Did not know that you had a cottage now! Are you no longer on the ranch? What you will be doing sounds lovely. Sorry I don't have any input or suggestions, but sounds like you are on the right track. Can't wait to see pictures! Marylu |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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memo, you are aware of the size of the plants arbor day sends? We ordered some burning bushes two years ago for Holy Comforter. They are now a foot tall!!! They were about 6" when we got them - so something you would need to consider is that they are so small they can be mown over, or not have full potential realized for 10-15 years! So that may be part of your considerations when planting. I'm planting some trees - and I was able to find a place to sell me 10-15 gallon "park grade" trees not much above wholesale. I bought a few of these to help get things going, and I went ahead and found those that would grow more quickly in my zone to provide the overstory faster. I purchased another teir of trees that (are fruiting for my own choice) and then the lower shrubs. For the evergreens I am going to go ahead and sink a bit of money into slightly larger specimines because here my choices are fairly slower growers. Something to think about - where you could, if you can manage to spend, where you can save a bit, and how long it will take you to realize. I also agree with the staggering, especially of decideous over story trees. It will look beautiful when you are done, I'm sure!! |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| Sounds like fun, Memo! I think multiple colors and textures are what creates the busy, unsettled look we try to avoid. I try to use a lot of something to counter my 'collector appetite'. If you used a backdrop all the same and small groups in front, for instance, it would seem grounded. Lots of good ideas here! Mickie |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| Memo- do you know anyone that will let you have trees for free? Our friend who I mentioned earlier came out to our farm and dug up some smaller (5') trees to transplant into his yard. All the pine and aspens are from our place and he got some other shrubs and peonies from friends and family. Just an idea :) |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| My two cents worth here... Lodge pole pine are considered weeds in my area. If you live in a wildfire area, they are highly flammable trees. Ponderosa pines are wonderful and my town is full of them, they will rot anf all over if they get to much water. Family had their car, pickup travel trailer and garage taken out last year from one falling. Cause was the roots were rotted from to much water. Aspens are beautiful but will grow into water and sewer lines and will shoot runners into lawns. So that's all I know about the three I mentioned. I love the mixed look idea. |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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Memo, I recall reading that the trees in a windbreak need to be placed correctly in order for the whole thing to work right. A quick Google search turned up the following article. If Missouri is much different than Nebraska, climate-wise, you can probably get more info from your county extension office. |
Here is a link that might be useful: planning a tree windbreak in Missouri
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| MeMo, I planted a large area in my backyard this year mainly with deciduous trees, some evergreens and shrubs. I have many more shrubs to plant next year. I did not have to worry about a windbreak though. I reference to deciduous trees I chose varieties that I wanted in my garden and I planted them as single specimens. It was a very daunting task trying to design such a large area but it was a lot of fun choosing and buying plant material. Am I understanding that you are planting the windbreak with the deciduous trees amongst the windbreak? Or are you planting a windbreak and then having a larger area (tree border)? I'm not sure if I follow if the windbreak is the "tree border" or if they are 2 separate entities. I found when planting a large area that it was very helpful to get paths in first which then broke up the area into smaller workable sections. Then in each "section" I placed a tree, some shrubs and will add some perennials, etc. If you are planting the deciduous trees in the windbreak amongst the evergreens, I think you would be fine to find trees that you really like and plant one of each. Assuming that you have one or two "main" evergreens being repeated. The evergreens should give enough of a cohesive look in the border allowing you to enjoy many varieties of deciduous trees. Have fun! It sounds like a great project! |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| I think you are on the right track, however do consider your neighbors too and plant wisely. I recall an incident where the windbreaker trees grew too large and cast a permanent shadow on the neighbors house and that led to a lawsuit. Okay so the idea is to set up a natural background. I usually view things in terms of colour.. So to me, take the deepest green hued and the tallest trees and set these way in the back. It won't be a problem if these back row trees are set in a row. They are meant to disappear in the background. The trees you should be setting down in random patterns are contrast trees such as Blue spruces which have a silvery hue, would pop out, and also other lighter hued evergreens. Put understory trees in between trees. Keep the choices of trees varied and keep it simple. So take a sampling of bows or twigs to help determine your colour scheme in the same way you put up paint colours in your home. Get the combination to your satisfaction. Keep in mind too that the winds will shape the growth direction of these trees. It may look rather strange if all trees grew in one direction. Perhaps you can stagger the planting and set up the first row of protective trees and later set up the other trees so they could grow straight. With regards to understory trees - I'm not familiar with your area but do check with your area, maybe you could add poplars or other kinds that can grow between these trees. I was thinking of birch becuase it's bark will stand out beautifully but I don't know if these will do well in your zone. Oh, since there are mostly ever green trees, be aware that they will take up a huge amount of water so don't over plant if this area requires frequent watering. |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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- Posted by memo Zone 4B Nebraska (My Page) on
Wed, Oct 28, 09 at 11:57
| Wow! I knew I could count on all of you for help and great ideas. You have given me many things to consider and my idea is really becoming well formed plan in my mind. I'll run it by you here and if I've not considered anything please feel free to jump right in with further thoughts or corrections. Oh, and GGG I'm not buying from Arbor Day, just used their search engine for ideas. Row one next to the fence: Thickly planted lilacs of various varietes. I loved the idea of putting down paths first and this will allow me to make the paths meet at the lilacs so I can pick them ;) Row two just in from the lilacs: A staggered row of Black Hills Spruce. Row three: A mixture of Green Ash, Little Leaf Linden and Flame Leaf Maple. I'm staggering the spruce trees to allow more head space for the deciduous trees. I think these trees should give a good mix of fall color but if I'm wrong let me know. Row four: A staggered row of Colorado Blue Spruce. Row five: I will use a variety of flowering trees, groups of flowering shrubs and perennials. These will be spaced much more freely in a long island fashion. Then to really give that park like feel to the rest of the yard. I'll add more small flowering trees here and there through out the yard. Not so may as to shade the yard but enough to add shady sitting spots here and there and give different vantage points to sit and view the garden from. All the tree choices except the flowering trees will reach mature heights of 40-60 feet. Tall enough to keep the heaviest winds above the height of my house. If I stop the wind break on the west just barely past the edge of the house then when the wind and snow finds the end of the windbreak and whips around it, it should dump all the snow into the front yard, keeping the road in front of the house fairly clear. My house is the only house on my road. I'm basing these assumptions on my years of watching the wind and snow patterns around all of the windbreaks out here on the ranch. I mentioned fencing above, right now there is barbed wire on the north and east sides of the yard. I hope to put up 2x4 woven wire with single barbed line across the top with neighbor and city approval. ON the west and south sides that don't border anyone elses property I'm planning to use woven loop wire fencing. Creosote or cedar posts (depends on cost)on the north and east and peeled cedar posts on the west and south. Comments anyone? MeMo |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| My only comment is 1/4 acre is not a lot of space (that's what I have and I'd like to have more...) and that's a lot of trees... Have you drawn a plan to scale using their mature sizes? |
RE: For the landscapers amongst us....
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| woodyoak has a good point. Predict the outcome of a full grown tree. Planted too close, and you will have trees competing with each other for nutrients and water. There goes any understory plants because these trees would suck out most moisture and its roots would crowd out other plants. Spruce and maples are especially good suckers. So go easy. Plan as if you have mature trees. Consider their trunk circumference, height, crown width and root growth range. |
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