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mandolls

Dahlias look wilted in the sun ?

mandolls
13 years ago

I noticed this last year from a few of my Dahlias, but this year the leaves all look "wilted" during the heat of the day. They are planted in good sandy soil, topped with a few inches of composted cow manure, and the soil is plenty damp underneath. As soon as the sun passes they spring back to a livelier appearance.

Is this common? Its not even June yet, so the real heat of summer is yet to come. I started them in pots inside this year, but they have been outside for over two weeks now, so I don't think it is about adjusting to the outdoor conditions.

Should I be concerned?

Comments (9)

  • corgicorner
    13 years ago

    I don't think you should be concerned, but you might want to cover each of them with a large plastic pot--upside down of course, during the day when the sun is beating down on the plants. Take the pots off when the sun no longer is shining on the plants, and be sure to keep them damp. Night dampness is excellent. If it is raining, be sure the plants are uncovered--the rain will do them wonders. Keep this up for about 7 days, but keep your eyes on the plants, and if they wilt again, keep up the procedure for another week or so. Persevere, you will win in the long run. Happy Gardening. I wish you success.

  • cindysunshine
    13 years ago

    Right - I wouldn't worry about them at all. On those first warm sunny days - everything in my borders wilt including the perennials. It's normal and by nightfall they perk back up. As long as you have had them out and hardened them off reasonably before planting, I think they are fine.

  • mandolls
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    Thanks for the input. Since I have some tubers in the same bed I want to refrain from watering as much as possible until those show.I have been getting similar mid-day wilting on a few of my perennials. Our weather has been crazy warm for this part of the country. This is the weekend that many people around here traditionally put out annuals, but we have already had many days in the 80's and 90's. I am expecting a bumper crop this year.

  • conqueress
    8 years ago

    In Cincinnati - we've had massive rain and hot (90's) my dahlias in partial shade are fine but 90% of mine in full sun - are sadly wilted and revive only partially in the evening - and I planted a huge bed - not sure there is a way to cover

  • conqueress
    8 years ago

    My concerns - will they die with this heat? There's been a LOT of rain - I have not seen any mold or diseases obviously seen . . . any experience out there - I'd like to know what's next

  • Terri Williams
    8 years ago

    It has been very hot and humid the day in WNC! I have one potted on that wilts pitifully during the day. I have even resorted to bringing her in the last couple of days. I am trying to stop myself from forcing water on her. I am worried that will introduce rot. She was the first potted but is one of the last to bloom. She has lots of buds right now. I hope they start to open soon.

  • cicivacation
    8 years ago

    "My concerns - will they die with this heat? There's been a LOT of rain"

    Heat alone won't kill well-watered dahlia plants. Too much water that can't drain away from the tubers will eventually cause tuber failure. Sometimes, the stem actually throws out roots while the tuber is rotting, and the grower isnt even aware there has been a tuber loss until digging that fall.

    From personal experience, I would recommend NOT FERTILIZING anymore until the heavy rains stop and the soil dries out a bit. I have painfully learned that fertilizer in perched soil will increase likelihood of rot.

    It is always a good idea to keep back a few tubers/cuttings until end of June so empty spaces can be filled as soon as you're sure they are needed. I have an unacceptable rate of failure when I plant tubers without roots, so I always prestart them in pots with plenty of top and bottom growth before planting out. I have quite a few holes with replacements ready to go in once this rain dries up, as two of my new beds are too low and need more amendments for next season.

  • Gary Figueroa [Zone 8B]
    8 years ago

    As I read through the various postings I see a common thread that I refer to as "over-care." How I limit myself is as follows. My strategy is to properly amend the planting site to provide a suitable soil profile to the liking of the tuber. Once planted, I provide a biologic preventative treatment to foster microbial activity for a variety of reasons. At time of planting, thwarting potential fungal disease is crucial. With my soil balanced between good drainage, sufficient organic content and balanced nutrition to include a mycorrhizal inoculum. In addition, I mix up a batch of biological products to support my effort to keep my tubers healthy. So, I use Actinovate, Companion 2-3-2, Earth Juice - Catalyst, Ful-Power and Maxi-crop [liquid form]. This cocktail along with my addition of Jobe's Organic Granular fertilizer lends itself to a high degree of success. The planting site gets a lot of attention as I focus on increasing tilth through the addition of gypsum, azomite, live earth [humates], fish bone meal, kelp and composted manure. I really get down and dirty while creating these sites and love the challenge of finding the energy to do a really thorough job. In my area, unamended soil means heavy clay which if left unattended spells real disappointment over the season. Once, sufficiently amended it produces tremendous results and rewards us with a bounty of veggies, flowers, etc. Recognizing that a living soil is what provides us with a glorious garden, my effort to contribute to just that is later realized in the wellness of what it is we decide to grow for the season. Of course, I'd be the first to agree that there are a lot of approaches to how one plants and cares for their plantings. So, to this I say, find what works best for you and once you've completed the task...stand back and let Mother Nature do her thing. Analogous to watching a pot of water come to boil, we distract ourselves by weeding, mulching, pruning, and bickering all the while loving the joy of growing. [laughing as I sit scratching my mosquito bites from last evening.] I also highly recommend the use of azadirachtin products over neem oil, Monterrey Garden Insect spray [spinosad A & B] in combination with the azadirachtin and, of late, I have begun using Serenade - Biological Fungicide as a preventative in my effort to thwart gray mold, powdery mildew and the various leaf blights sometimes affecting our planting.

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