|
| I'm in southern California, growing dahlias for the first time. The Cafe au Lait dahlias put on a spectacular show, but are starting to look not-so-good, with fewer blooms, some stems collapsing, and a touch of powdery mildew. How do you know when your dahlias are done? I had originally assumed I would lift the tubers and plant something else, then replant the tubers later. But now I'm reading that dahlias can keep going all year in mild climates (we're currently experiencing warm days and cold (down to 40'sF nights). So, do I lift and store the tubers, or do I leave the tubers and plant something else over them, or do I leave the dahlias as a year-round planting? Any help will be greatly appreciated. jannike |
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| I don't grow in a warm climate, so my word is not gospel on this subject. So, take this advice for what it is worth :) 1) Chop down the whole plant, dig (and maybe divide) the clump and replant in a different location. With your weather being as warm as it is a new plant will grow. 2) Chop down the whole plant and let a new plant grow. The drawback to number two, as I see it, is with the stump of the plant sticking up like that there is the potential for rot setting in. That is my .02 cents on the subject. Hopefully an experienced warm weather grower will chime in. |
|
| I am in a mild climate and have never dug up my dahlias so I can't offer much there, but I was worried about the statement that dahlias should be chopped down. I have always assumed that dahlia tubers are like bulbs and NEED the dying foliage in order to store up power for the next year. But I read an earlier post where someone said that is a myth and you can cut them down immediately. Perhaps Ted (the REAL expert) could weigh in. Tubers may not need that dying out process so much as tulips and daffs need it so it would save me months of looking at dead branches if I felt safe cutting them down earlier. |
This post was edited by davidinsf on Sun, Dec 7, 14 at 0:43
|
- Posted by CCvacation (My Page) on Mon, Dec 8, 14 at 9:29
| David, Snarq is an experienced grower that makes a living selling thousands of cut dahlia blooms and tubers every year. I'd say she is very 'real' in her experience level, honest in her offered knowledge, and a very kind lady. I hope she stays to share her advice with others here. |
|
| Dahlia tubers store best if they are harvested from healthy plants without rot. If you live in a cold climate where they are growing madly one day and cut down by frost the next, there is no need to cut off the stalks. But if you live in a rainy climate where it may not frost but cool rainy weather will eventually kill the dahlias, you are much better off to dig and divide your dahlias before the fungus diseases kill the plants. Those fungus diseases spread downwards to the tubers and infect them. While some varieties are resistant o the fungus, many are not. So if you are going to leave the tubers in the ground in a mild climate place like San Francisco, you need to watch for fungus infecting the plants and cut them off to the ground if you see it. Here in Oregon, those who dig before the rains start in the Fall have an easier time storing their tubers. We dig in October and frost hits us about December 1st. |
|
| Thanks CC, Ted and Snarq. My flippant 'REAL' expert was not intended to be a slight to any of the experienced growers here - it is just my private moniker for Ted, whose expertise seems inexhaustible and has always has great advice and always answers lots of our Q's. I had never seen Snarq as a contributor so I had no idea who she is/was - but again, I apologize if I slighted anyone. It was not intentional. I guess my predicament does not fit either scenario. I am not digging up and dividing very often and when I do, it is right about this time of year. I still have some dahlias with dried out stalks as it helps me know where the tubers lie when I weed the garden. I also have 4 dahlias sprouting for next year already (sigh, the penalty for living in a mild climate) so I am not sure WHAT they are up to. They will not keep growing for 6 more months but it will be interesting to see if they bloom normally next year. Regardless, I now know that cutting them back will not affect their virility for following years and I don't need to see dried out stalks anymore at Christmastime, so thanks to all again. |
|
- Posted by CCvacation (My Page) on Wed, Dec 10, 14 at 0:41
| I appreciate you clarifying, David. I had reread your post five times, trying to give benefit of doubt, and couldn't see any other way you meant it. Sounds like your soil doesn't get too soggy during winter months to rot the tubers... Does it have a high proportion of sand? Or are you blessed with fairly dry winters? |
|
| CC When I re-read the thread, I could see how horrible my communication seemed. But I honestly was not even thinking of Snarq or ANYONE who offers advice when I quickly tried to give a shout out to Ted. Afterward I could easily see how it seemed like I was dismissing Snarq and again, I apologize to her directly, as that was never my intention. I truly value everybody who offers advice here or has questions or just posts pics. As to my soil -Both. I live in the Avenues and it is basically sand all the way to the ocean. But you add a drought like we have had for 3-4 years and the soil rarely gets very overly wet, as storms always seem to last only 1 or 2 days and then sun again. |
|
- Posted by CCvacation (My Page) on Fri, Dec 12, 14 at 8:15
| I found it interesting that you had assumed dahlias needed to keep their dead stalks like spring bulbs... Never occurred to me, but in a more temperate region that has a slow die-off of the plants (instead of a sudden 'BAM' frost of death that my dahlias experience), that assumption makes more sense. I strongly doubt the tubers are continuing to store energy or keep growing as the foliage fades, as that is a sign of impending dormancy. And as you have multiple years of tubers in each clump, the maturity of the tubers doesn't matter as much, either. I have been taught that cuttings started in spring need three months to develop well-matured tubers that will store out of the soil... They actually can start developing tubers within a month, and be stored as a dormant pot root in their soil for the best shot at overwintering a valuable variety. I've heard of several old timers (all long-passed now, grandparents to my contemporaries) who successfully layered tubers in sand within lined apple crates and coal buckets here in the East. I bet vermiculite wasn't as readily available then. ;-) Nowadays, folks I have talked to report a lower success rate when testing sand against others as a storage medium, but that is after severing the feeder roots when dividing. Sounds like your undisturbed clumps do just fine. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Dahlia Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here






