For what it's worth, after extensive research, I've just used Epsom Salts on my daylilies, some of which were yellowing.

Someone kindly posted this link for me a few days ago when I inquired about Epsom Salts.

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/daylily/msg0406533711969.html

I used them today for the first time, so it's too early for results, if any.

Thanks!!!

E salt seems to be for plant vigor. I think there is something fungal..but not,going on. Too much water. I will certainly try it. wish me luck!!

See below.. Does this describe anything you are dealing with? The below is copied and pasted from the extension services at the University of MN.

CROWN AND ROOT ROTS

The most common above-ground symptom of crown and root rot is a rapid yellowing of foliage and dropping of flower buds. Leaves usually yellow uniformly from the tip down, without the presence of spots and streaks. Often an entire clump is affected. Close examination of the crown and root system is necessary for accurate diagnosis.

Bacterial soft rot causes soft, mushy tissue with a foul odor. This disease, caused by bacteria present in the soil, infects plants through wounds or natural openings near the root crown of the plant. The bacteria can spread quickly when soil moisture is high, causing rapid death of the entire daylily clump. There is no cure for plants severely damaged by soft rot. However, if only part of the crown is infected, the damaged tissue can be cut out and the healthy crown section replanted in a well-drained location. Let the cut surfaces dry in a shaded location before planting to prevent bacteria from infecting the fresh wounds.

White mold, caused by the fungus Sclerotium, causes a crown rot in daylilies. The crown and lower leaves of infected plants are often covered with white mats of cottony growth called mycelia. Small, brown to black, seed-like reproductive structures, called sclerotia, form in the mycelia. The sclerotia remain dormant in the soil for many years, making this a difficult fungus to control.

There are currently no fungicides available to homeowners for white mold control. To manage existing infections, remove infected plants and soil. Remove all soil within one foot of the infected plant, to a depth of one foot. Discard the infected plants and soil, do not compost them. Be careful not to spill any soil, which may contain sclerotia. Try to avoid planting daylily or other susceptible plants for several years. Since this fungus is able to infect many different garden plants, it is important to verify a plant's immunity.

Rhizoctonia crown rot of daylilies occurs in wet years or in poorly drained soils. Symptoms include crowns that rot from the soil surface down and dark, felt-like fungal growth on the plant crown. Sometimes, sclerotia can be observed in the soil around infected plants. Rhizoctonia-infected daylilies may recover if soil drainage is improved or plants are relocated to a well-drained location.

Does anyone know what this is and what causes it? No sign of any rot, just plant doing poorly, then when dug up there are hardly any roots at all and the ones there are about an inch long.

This is just my latest theory -- grub worms eat the hair-like roots of plants, and I think that's why when we dug up our daylilies that were sick, they only had the main roots - no hairy stuff. I asked our pest control man to treat for grubs, so will know more if and when we have to dig some up.

We did see grubs in our soil this spring when planting some daylilies. Our yard man showed them to me and was very concerned. I didn't know much about them at the time, so did some research on-line. I had thought previously they were harmless. I haven't seen any discussion among daylily folks about them, though.

What are you using for fertilizer? We stopped using chemical fertilizers last fall, and have applied seaweed fertilizer several times. The results have been quite dramatic. Our plants began multiplying rapidly and turned a beautiful shade of green. Of course now that they have been blooming so long and the weather now brutally hot, the older leaves are turning yellow.

Nancy

No, silverkelt none of them really fit. I read about this last year and while the leaves turn yellow to white from the bottom up before the eventually brown out they do not smell. I pulled all the yellowed leaves out last year from hundreds of my day-lilies as I have them circling my lot. I saw no mold and no sign of soft or mushy crowns. I see it also affects iris that I have growing near the day lilies. I saw other places in town where the day lilies had this what ever it is.

I applied the e. salt solution. I went through an entire bag and only had enough for my front driveway. Half way through it was apparent this delivery system--two gallon watering can- did not work for me. I do not believe enough was delivered to each plant to make much of a difference. It seems to me they should be watered well..and with a watering can, and this many plant this is IMPOSSIBLE. There are not enough hours in the summer. Is there a way to mix up a solution in a garden hose delivery system? Anyone have any idea what the ratio should be?

The article that I found suggested 1/2 cup of Epsom salts dissolved in a gallon milk jug. Pour contents of jug into ortho-sprayer and set the dial for 6oz per gallon of spray.

Frankly I can't see how this relates to the 2 tblspn per plant that some articles recommend, but I used the formula and we shall see.

Thanks I will give that a try!!

I may be overlooking some information here, but this sounds like Leaf Streak to me. If indeed it is this fungus, I have used Cleary's this season, and it has made a miraculous differerence on my daylily foliage. I saw improvement in the first week. I read a study about this, and it recommended spraying once/wait 7 days; spray again/wait 14 days; spray again/wait 14 days. If still showing signs, spray a 4th time. I am sold on this product, after only 2 applications. I plan to use it as a preventive measure every Spring going forward. I believe the quart of concentrate cost me about $60-$70; that's expensive to me, but you use a very small amount when diluted as the label suggests. Living in the hot, humid South, leaf streak is a big problem.