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rust
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Posted by weldontx z 8a TX (My Page) on Fri, Nov 13, 09 at 22:52
Those of you in the warmer, more southern areas, please tell me what is most successful in deterring rust. I've had some this fall (unusually damp Oct.) and want to get a head start next spring.
Currently, I'm alternating Daconil and Eagle 20.
ALSO, is there ANY source other than this forum and bluntly asking the grower (who may not be in a rust zone and has no clue) what a certain DL's susceptibility to rust might be?
Weldon |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: rust
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| Hey Weldon, This year I haven't sprayed with anything other than Lemon Joy dish soap in a fertilizer concoction. I also cut back all the foliage last winter...all of it to the ground during a cold spell. I had a rust free spring and summer. But I'm seeing rust this fall - not as much as usual, but it's definitely out there. The only source about susceptibility I know of is the Rust Survey. I'll post a link below. If you have a DL that scored poorly on the survey, my best advice is to dig it up and throw it away. IMO, the rust magnets are more trouble than they are worth. Best of luck -
Kathy |
Here is a link that might be useful: Rust Survey
RE: rust
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I was using Bayer to control/or reduce the rust on my daylilies. It seemed to work pretty well but I probably needed to use it more often since the rust did reappear. (It's so damp/HUMID here--they don't stand a chance!)
I have been unable to tend to my gardens since mid October (due to surgery..not laziness LOL) and so the rust has been rampant. Ugh! However, I noticed it seemes to kind of 'go away' on most plants???
I intend to cut off all the foliage when I am able to and spray with BAYER one last time until next Spring when it will/or may be needed again.
I noticed H. Fulva doesn't get rust on it and neither does this other (NOID) daylily I have---wish I knew its name. |
RE: rust
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| Oh thanks for the links! I have rust in my garden for the first time this year, too. All these cool, dewy nights and warm days! I think a spray program is supposed use two systemics with different mechanisms of action. Eagle 20 is mycobutanil, a sterol inhibitor (like Banner Maxx-propiconazole, and Strike 50 or Bayleton 50-triadimefon.) Maybe you could add a mitrochondrial type like Heritage (azoxystrobin) or Headline/Cabrio/Insignia(pyraclostrobin.) I wish I could avoid spraying, but I don't think I'm far enough north to count on freeze out. |
RE: rust
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You might want to look at Bill Waldrop's blog at the web site I have listed below. Bill is getting pretty well known for his plants and is about as honest as can be. Look at his entry for 11/5/09 where he tells what he does for rust. If you are interested, he also has a very interesting section on spraying for mites and thrips posted on 10/22/09.
As I see it, the real problem for the daylily hobby-ist is that the newest chemistries that control either fungal diseases (rust) or specific insects (mites, thrips)are very expensive. In the cases of the strobulins used for rust or for the new insecticides like Headline, you need to get several people in your area interested and share the expense. Even though you use a teaspoonful or less per gallon of spray, you cannot buy many of these chemicals in amounts less than 8 (and often 16) ounces and the prices run upward from $100 for that amount - - and usually quite a bit more.
Do your best with some of the contact killers that you can afford while you try to find others who might be interested in being part of a small cooperative to buy the high priced stuff. Maybe your local club (if you have one) would like to purchase the bottle and then re-sell to interested members. Also, whether you are using the contact killers or the systemics, you will need a sticker/spreader to help attain total coverage of both sides of the leaves. Most people use a dish washing detergent with good success. I am aware that there is a commercial sticker/spreader that severely damages the newest daylily growth, so my advice is to stay with the dish soaps. Bill mentions in his blog that he has observed some damage of new growth with Mancozeb. I have used that fungicide and have aslo noted the same type of damage although I have not done any side-by-side comparisons to really know from my own experience.
By the way, most of the folks I know who are growing daylilies around the Augusta area are fighting rust problems right now. As others have said, the warm days, cool (but not cold) nights and a lot of moisture are the growing conditions daylily rust fungus likes best.
Good luck to all of us! |
Here is a link that might be useful: Bill's Daylily Corner
RE: rust
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| WoW, thanks gang for such information! Ladydonna, I like the picture of your flower bed. I'm getting ready to do a new bed. I have entirely too much bermuda grass on this little 50 X 100 lot!! I am familiar with Banner Maxx and Mancozeb, etc from trying my hand at roses. Had a binge on Old Garden Roses, but rapidly ran out of space... tried propagating (fairly successfully) too many, then the market just seemed to fade away. Don't think that likely with DLs. I REALLY appreciate the links and will check them out.
Another question: Disposal of infected leaves...put them in the green cart to go to the city compost thus spreading spores all over the place, or in the trash to wait a 100 yrs for them to emerge? Probably could take them to the farm and burn them on a brush pile. That would let the smoke disperse the spores.
What to do?? What to do?
Again, thanks for the help. I feel well advised. Weldon |
RE: rust
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What I have heard from others is to make sure that they do not go into any compost anywhere. As for burning, I imagine that the heat would kill the spores, but I have nothing other than an opinion on that, so its worth exactly what you are paying for it - - Nothing!
Larry |
RE: rust
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I'm a tremendous hot composting fan-- my pile is out there now steaming at 130 degrees. My rusty daylily leaves, on the other hand, are tightly tied inside plastic Kroger bags.
100 years in a landfill? Sounds perfect! I made it out to the garden center this morning for Daconil. I'm thrilled to report I bought a new two gallon sprayer--hoot! It's on wheels with a pull handle, powered by two AA batteries. I'm skeptical--but if there's a chance to make spraying easier, apparently I'll give anything a try. |
RE: rust
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| I found that Daconil wasn't very effective other than to kill spores. Systemics are the way to go. |
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