Here:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/fig/msg1200533229502.html

As you see Dan deleted some of his old posts on purpose in this same thread. Guess posting one not deleted by him should be ok.

Enjoy.

Below is a link containing most of the details to the Improved Baggie Method. Ignore the bantering that was going on in that thread. I consistently obtain nearly a 100% success rate with this method. By all means use Fertilome Ultimate Potting Mix in your rooting medium if you can find it. Contrary to one vocal forum member's "opinion", it is "SPECIALLY FORMULATED" for rooting cuttings.

Hope this helps.......again, ignor the bantering contained in that thread.

Dan

Here is a link that might be useful: Improved Baggie Method

Thanks LN and Dan for responding. I actually have read those threads already, and they're much appreciated. I was just wondering if there was a single document that you had Dan that included all of the steps of your method in one document? I'm looking for everything spelled out so I don't miss any of the details. I think I know some of the mistakes I made last time I tried rooting cuttings, like putting water in the bottom of the tupperware that held my cuttings in cups, but was hoping to get a copy of your latest and greatest steps so i don't screw anything up. I got some great cuttings from Jon at Encanto and it would certainly be a costly mistake each time I fail, but more importantly, I really want these particular varieties and some of them I only have one shot to get it right.
Thanks,
Timmy

This is ridiculous.
I've never seen so many dead end links to something that was supposedly so popular.
If "Dan" is still available, or someone with a WORKING link to this "Improved Baggie Method", then could you please post it.
Thanks

Just an fyi, I'm not saying Dan's method doesn't work, i appreciate his contributions and sharing as much as anyone on this forum, but i had very bad luck last year with this method. I was 0 for about 50 or 60. That said, mold seemed to be a constant issue and maybe it started on a few and spread taking out my whole batch, so I wouldn't blame it on his method. However, I'm trying some other methods this year, particularly Jon's new bag method with uline bags that seems to require much less constant attention and work.

Yes, mold is a huge issue.
I was trying to find out exactly what Dan meant by the 2 terms he mentioned for mold control:
Caustic soap?
Oxidative Clorox?
And in exactly what concentrations they are used?
And for how long of an exposure?
And could Caustic Soda (lye) be used as caustic soap and in what concentration? Lye would seem more quantifiable than a "soap" (with other things in it).
That's why I went on a search for this "Improved Baggie Method" -- with no luck.
Thanks for the reply.

Hurt my brain to read that thread up there. If the "improved baggie" is anything like the "peat pot cup" method he suggested everybody use last year then just toss the cuttings in the compost pile and you are all done!
Dan always had a problem with sharing, I don't know why, maybe he skipped kindergarten or something. I miss him but not his attempts to toy with my emotions as the reader.

Use long fibered sphagnum moss for rooting, squeeze all the water out and place cuttings in moss in sealed container. Check for roots once a week. Pot them up when they have several emerging roots of about an inch long. That is all.

Do not wash, you will probably just damage the bark and release sugars from the cutting for the mold as an appetizer.

Oh for Pete's sake!

noss

I am just thinking about the little cuttings noss, and everyone who has time and money invested already. Dan has not been providing tech support for any of his techniques for a while and removed or failed to mention important info in a timely way as to how they work. So why let people waste their time snipe hunting?

Somehow I sense this is turning into another shouting match. Dan shared his info; you just have to read a lot b/c it is spread out. His technique is basically baggie method until roots then when moved to cup, incorporate a 3" peat pot. For mix he uses perlite and upm or fafard. He gives more detailed explanation in diff threads but I forgot. Please refrain from name calling, spoken or implied in this thread, we all benefit from each other.

Sorry for the kindergarten and compost remarks Timmy. I do have a chip on my shoulder about the way in which Dan used and then left the fig forums, but you are right about swagger being counterproductive.

The method may in fact work for some people, but: 1. Peat can come contaminated with mold because it is decomposing and may not wave been adequately treated to kill spores when making peat pots. 2. Peat pots do not provide good aeration or drainage when placed inside a plastic cup and it is easy to over-water as a result. 3. It is the most expensive and labor intensive method I have seen. 4. In a recent rooting poll at F4F peat pots were never mentioned, Sphagnum moss was #1 and Jon's 3x8 baggies were #2 and a combo of both was #3.

I checked on several of the links above, and none took me to the fig bag method of rooting. Am trying to do it here, but so far no sign of any roots and I had a bit of a mold problem on one cutting.

I understand what you are saying, hoosierbanana. No one likes to feel played with. It would seem, at times, that tossing the cuttings into a compost heap really does successfully root them. :) It was the kindergarten thing that made me feel exasperated because it was unnecessary and I don't come here for that sort of thing.

I'm trying hard to learn how to root cuttings instead of rotting and killing them and that's frustrating enough, thank you. ;)

I've spoken with Dan several times and we've had a ball discussing everything under the sun and his information is good and simple. I like to know why about everything, so I find him very interesting. I like him. I've learned a lot from him. The best thing is he knows our climate, which I find invaluable.

I didn't think it was possible to delete posts in GW. How is that done?

noss

This yr I'm open to any method since the bag method failed so bad last yr. you're right, it's a ton of work and money. I dont want to discourage others from tring this method but I lost every cutting even though I got roots on all of them in bags. The peat pots molded almost immediately so I abandoned them. So far I bagged some in Jon's narrow bag method. What do y'all think I should try w the others?

What works for me, currently, because I do not have much space inside and I am rooting lots of cuttings for the second year in a row... I either go from rooting in sphagnum moss or Jon's 3x8 to 16-64 oz. containers with roughly 50/50 perlite/potting mix and a dash of turface (it changes color when moist and holds water well, if you use transparent cups just look at the turface to see if it needs water). There are a few tricks that I have learned over at F4F that have worked well for me with the way I do things: 1. Use fully moistened potting mix/perlite and do not add any more water or if the mix is only a little moist (do not use it dry!) only drizzle a little water into the container at the cutting for the first watering so a little tiny bit drains out, the water by the cutting gets wicked up by the rest of the potting mix. Those ways ensure there is no standing water in the container 2. Do not water for a while after that, depending on the temp/humidity/sun/how fast your cuttings are growing and container size it should be at least a week (maybe 5 days for a really fast grower). I go by weight and sometimes the turface, a bamboo skewer is good if you are not sure when the time is right (sink it deep and leave it in there for a good while before checking, it will be dark colored if there is moisture down in the cup. Easy on the water until the roots are through the whole container, until they are, some people water with a 10cc syringe so they are sure to not drown their roots. I just drizzle with a small watering can and am careful to not add too much.

About Jon's 3x8 baggie... Last year I misused the baggie and paid a price of about 30% failure ultimately because I left them in those little baggies too long and they choked themselves (roots rot weeks after potting up). They are not for growing, only a convenient way of rooting really. Slow growers can sit in those little baggies much longer than the ones that throw out big thick spaghetti roots right away. I get them into larger containers as soon as i see an inch or more of pasta now and things have gone much better. Here is that poll I was talking about, there are lots of ways mentioned that might be better for your situation and give you some more insight. Good luck this year!

http://figs4funforum.websitetoolbox.com/post/Rooting-Poll-5719498

Great stuff hoosier, what's the 16-64 mean? Are you saying any cup in that size range? When do you move to sun? Do you cover the cups when you move to them? Sounds like you're using more water than me.

Yes, pint-half gallon size, I put little cutting in little cups and vice-versa. I have been putting them in a bin with a cracked lid for higher humidity immediately after potting up for about a week. It seems to help any top growth survive better but I don't always do it because the bin gets full sometimes. I also have a small 3 cfl light setup over an old fishtank where I put the really special ones and the rest are in front of a SW window. Inside humidity is 40-50% here so they do dry out much faster in front of the window. Last year I moved them out to a location that got afternoon shade and had rowcover over them, that was late April I think. You can put a cutting in direct outdoor sun if it has not leafed out yet (more than 2 leaves) and has roots, they really do better because they do not have to adjust to more light later on. I am saving some of my larger cuttings to do that with. My favorite thing to root in are those cardboard coffee canisters that have metalized mylar inside, they seem to really keep the roots from getting cooked outside in the sun.