Here is a picture of a HEAVY RKN infested example of
barerooted fig that I just got earlier this week. This
actually prompted me to post the 'Fig's Worst Nemesis'
FF thread.

My hair stood straight up (and squirm) when I saw it...
The picture represents most infected ~25% of the root mass.

I cut the root ball off, and chopped all above into
cuttings to (hopefully) start fresh. Unfortunately, in
the same plastic bag, I got another fig that seemed clean,
but to be safe, it went under the same drastic procedure.

{{gwi:772287}}

George (NJ).

Did that come from a commercial source George?

Glenn, you have private email...

For all others; yes it was 'from a commercial source'.
Just feel that I need NOT make more bad waves about vendors.
So watch out (again, watch OUT)! Even if you get a fig from
your good willing but 'naive' mother/father/etc. If you do
not have it (RKN), believe me you can do without it (unlike
maybe FMV?). I have my best fig spot infected with RKN.
Tried various methods to get rid of it there, no 100%
success (I think it is imopssible). Wish I knew RKN existed
when I first got interested in 'them' figs...

gorgi....have you considered solarization of the spot?

Also, do you wash all soil off of all figs you get as soon as they arrive to establish the presence or absence of RKN? Does everyone else as well?

I've only got one fig that I've purchased and I didn't do anything but pot it up into a larger pot upon its arrival.

It was from a soon to be defunct nursery that only seems to get stellar reviews.

~Chills

Chills,

>>> solarization
No, but I think that I have heard about it. Has something
to do with 'clear' plastic covering to 'roast' them bugs
with solar heat! Will do just that for a couple of weeks
before planting 100% (already purchased) RKN-trapping
marigolds in that one good fig spot. So happens it is
south facing, and may use any mirrors I can find to
re-direct the most sunshine.

>>>> Also, do you wash all soil off of all figs you get as
>>> soon as they arrive to establish the presence or absence
>>> of RKN?
No, but since I got smarter, I do inspect the all fig
roots, bare-rooted or otherwise.

So far I used the SF-type 'good' nematodes to control RKN
in that spot. Cost a LOT of $$$, but did not completely
eliminate them. Ended up destroying my oldest (inground)
figs in that spot (now ALL my figs are potted). Probably
I should have done so ~2 years ago when RKN was first
discovered. I blame it on another famous CV...

George (NJ).

George, I'm not sure I understand. Are you saying an in-ground spot that also went through a New Jersey winter (or two) still had nematodes? I was under the impression (from a previous FF post) that three months of below freezing temperatures would kill RKN. I was counting on the cold to be a good RKN control measure.
How do you know it was still infested?

>>> Are you saying an in-ground spot that also went through
>>> a New Jersey winter (or two) still had nematodes?
Yes.
>>> How do you know it was still infested?
By examining the roots.

Pulled the figs out last fall, and picked up as much roots
as possible. That spot is gone as far as figs are concerned.
Just hope that I was not too late to avoid spreading to
to other areas. I hear that rkn travel very easily with
water runoff.

I think that I will do the solarization later (August?).
For now I will go ahead with the SF and 100%marigold
thing, since I already have them.

"M. incognita (southern RKN) is susceptible to the cold. This is a combination of temperature and duration. I assume as the temperature drops the duration probably will decrease as well. M. hapla (and probably others) will survive the cold." This is an excerpt from the thread freezing roots by bjs496 on Sun. Jan. 28, 2007.
Since the plants I got in were from the south, I figured it was southern RKN and cold would take care of it in time.
George's and Mojo's posts (in a different thread) have made me very anxious.
George, how could you tell if the galls were recent (with live nematodes) or old (containing dead nematodes)?

George, I wonder if putting the root mass in 100% manure compost with lots of mulch mixed in will do anything to kill the nematodes. I heard nematodes hate soils with lots of organic matter as it often contains a lot of other micro-organisms that attack the nematodes. Pehaps that environment will be deadly for them.

By the way, you might want to isolate the pot to avoid having the nematodes move into your yard's soil along with the flowing soil water. That is always a possibility.

Gorgi

What kind of Marigolds did you get? I know one of the plant companies claims to have a variety that is more effective, but I can't recall what one it is.

~Chills

>>> how could you tell if the galls were recent (with live
>>> nematodes) or old (containing dead nematodes)?
I have no clue, never seen one squirming - too small for
my eyes. However, 2 years ago, I did dig off as much surface
roots as I could. My recent fall surface root examination was
positive, i.e., they were back!
P.S. The bareroot fig with RKN (above picture) came from way
up north!

>>> I wonder if putting the root mass in 100% manure compost
>>> with lots of mulch mixed in will do anything to kill
>>> the nematodes.
It may kill both. A local fig expert, just informed me of
trying to 'winter protect' a fig in 100% manure. It was
a goner. Yes I heard that they do not compost.

>>> What kind of Marigolds did you get?
I just got regular tall and short ones from HD.
There are ones that are more effective and others that
are ineffective, but most do OK. Too late to start seed now.

Best way (as Herman said )is to start with plain cuttings
and trust nobody.

Today, I sprinkled 1/2 of 36 million good nematodes. Spent
$100+ on 3 kinds, SF, HB & SC. Only SF controls RKN, but the
other 2 contol ants which is also a problem to me. Every
nook and cranny got some dose as a precaution including
pots. Will sprinkle the other 1/2 in 2-3 weeks (max fridge
life).
http://www.buglogical.com/

George (NJ).

P.S. My rkn infected spot and surrounding area got a
3-4 times dose of the (controlling but not 100%
eliminating) good nems...

Correction:
Yes I heard that they do not compost.
= Yes, I heard that they (rkn) do not (like) compost (and such).

Hi Guy's About three weeks ago I uncovered my fig tree's and did some major pruning. I dug up some plants with roots for some fig loving friends on this forum.I healed them into the ground until I'm able to drive them over to their house.But I have to say after reading all this scary stuff in the last couple of days about this monster (nematodes) I'm afraid to dig them back up.I don't think they have it; however like many of you new to this forum I never knew about this disease until I joined in December. I never saw it on any of my roots but never really inspected them for it. Anyway I assure you George and Herman and any local N.J. forum friends I will Inspect them before I bring them over;and let you guys inspect them before you plant them.

stay well,
Anthony

Gorgi, I think you were refering to "fresh" hot manure that is not composted. That will kill them for sure. But what I meant was to use "composted" manure. (manure compost). I over-wintered my figs with about 12 inches of manure compost, and they leafed out magnificently. Right now, I have some fat brebas this early in the season. I think they love the composted manure and compost layer that I left them during the winter.

Some of the things mentioned in this thread is contradictory to what I have read elsewhere.

RKN is not affected by manure or compost. Rather the beneficial organisms that composting attracts to the soil makes life unpleasant for the RKN.

NJ did not have much of a freeze this year. Furthermore, the freezing temperatures must be maintained. I don't know how far down the soil froze. I had a conversation with a gentleman at the Univ of Illinois, who indicated that cold treatment was not as effective of heat treatment. It is important to note that the cold is ONLY effective against Southern RKN. There are many types of nematodes that do survive the cold.

I have not found anything, other than the ads of the companies wanting you to buy their product, that Marigolds or "beneficial" nematodes effectively eliminate RKN. When RKN enter marigold's roots, they find a hostile environment. However, the roots do not "secrete" anything into the soil to kill the RKN living outside of the roots. Either way, you may reduce their numbers, but not eliminate them. You could just eliminate any food source and probably do the same thing.

~james

Is there anything that nematodes (the bad ones at least) like more than fig roots. Or maybe something they hate, garlic maybe? Maybe a combination of luring, repelling and organic gardening would increase the likelyhood of RKN's numbers diminishing over time.

Periodic flooding?

These things cannot be indestructable or we would have found gardening impossible long before the 21st century. Or maybe the outlook that a certain amount of damage is inevitable and choose varieties whose vigor is sufficient to outperform the little buggers.

~Chills

A little web-searching and I've come across a couple interesting things about these little buggers. First off for those of you with contaminated soils
http://www.advanllc.com/basamid/index.html
The equivalent of nuclear attach against everything in the soil. Start off with a clean slate.

Also it seems that the most promising biological controls are fungi. I'm tired and will persue this more next time I have a moment...good night to all..

~Chills

Has anyone tried mycorrhizal fungi help?

Here is a link that might be useful: Google Search

Chills,
This 'Basamid' soil fumigant seems quite promising!
Will investigate some more. Seems ideal for my
little (now bare) rkn infected 'best' fig spot...
Thanks,
George (NJ).

james,
Not sure where the 'contradictory' points are.
Please pin-point them to us (or at least to just me).
George(NJ).

'Basamid' acts the same way as "VAPAM" producing "methyl isothiocyanate" toxic and lethal gas.
Their effects over nematodes is irregular, mainly if the soil is not covered with a plastic foil.
The most effective chemical treatment is Methyl Bromide, forbidden in many countries and immediate lethal for people.
I used chemical treatments in my fatherÂs fields , but never the bad nematodes were definitely killed and the natural predators were killed too.
To solve this problem, now I prefer non aggressive methods, grafting over resistant stocks, increase the manure level, fungus inoculation , beneficial nematodes,
If you use a chemical treatment and you have a few nematodes survivors, the pest will grow fast without competitors.
Choose the solution is not easy and this problem is very discouraging when appears.

Bon courage!

Xon...Do you know of any nematode resistant stocks?

This could be the solution we need should our soils become infested.

~Chills

Better yet....how about information from Florida dept of Agriculture on the subject.

Nematodes: -- Deep sands of central Florida harbor severe infestations while clay subsoils offer some protection. Grown next to buildings, roots penetrate the soil beneath where nematode populations are lower. Heavy organic mulches lessen nematode damage. Preplanting treatments with nematicides are helpful. Graft figs onto nematode-resistant rootstocks such as Ficus racemosa, F. cocculifolia and F. gnaphalacarpa. F. racemosa is sold as F. glomerata in Florida. Trees on these rootstocks cannot grow successfully in areas colder than warm areas in the citrus regions in Florida.

~Chills

Here in South Carolina, I use what is called gin trash as a root-cover heavy mulch around my fig trees. Gin trash is the refuse (burrs, seeds, leaves, stems, cotton fragments and dirt) from processing cotton at the gins. Since there's a lot of it here in cotton country, gin owners are begging people to come and get as much as you want - tons. I get truck loads of this rich mulch that's been siting in their holding fields for at least a year (to cool off). I started using it after finding out that many of the old-timers had been using it around fig trees for ages but they didn't know why it worked. After investigating, I found out that the heavy mulch held water/moisture real well and allowed different types of fungi to form at ground level. In turn, the fungi attacks the bodies of the parasites/nematodes thus killing the population. Has worked for me now for many years...