More important than nematode resistance is whether fig has a closed or open eye to keep bugs out and

whether it has a big breba crop or not.
The nematode issue can be dealt with. Starting with a clean plant (no nematode galls in roots) and use

quality potting mix in a large pot. If you want to place the tree in the ground, dig a much larger (4-5x

size of pot and twice as deep and fill with good mix (contains lots of organic material)a 3000 mix from

Bushel stop ($29/cubic yard) is a good mix and Bushel Stop has several locations in South FLA.

Another major issue in our area is the rust fungus. This fungus causes leaves to get rust blotches, curl

up and fall. Fruiting trees without leaves do not ripen fruit. You can keep re-applying copper spray or

a bordeaux misture (copper and lime, google it) but as it is a topical application it'll just wash away

every times it rains. Systemic application are just not recommended as it is an edible fruit.

The painful reality of growing figs in South Florida is that we have the less than ideal climate to grow

figs. Figs love the dry heat from Southern California and or Mediterranean basin.

I am currently evaluating 50+ varieties in various stages of growth, this will be a several years long

project. I will be searching for nematode resistance, rust fungus proclivity, closed eye size, chilling

hours requirement and early fruit (breba) production.

South Florida is a sub-tropical climate area and we have a pocket of suitable climate in winter spring
(our dry season) that has (most times) somewhat suitable climate for figs, with very little rain, and

good air movement. This gives figs with closed eye and breba crop a good chance to ripen and produce.

Once the rain starts, it's an uphill battle with the rust fungus and unless you live in a micro climate

(very near the beach) that does not get much rain and has a lot of air movement, you will suffer like

the rest of us.

An additional and widespread problem is the Fig Mosaic Virus, it will manifest in varyings shades of

green blotches in early leaves and deformed leaves and possibly stunted growth. I find that I can 'push'

plants past the early virus intensive stage by regular feeding with soluble fertilizer ( 1 tsp/gallon)

once weeekly on an established and rooted plant. I flush with water at least once or twice weekly as

well.

Actual fig varieties that can be successfully grown here, I would start with Conadria, italian honey and

alma and avoid open eye varieties. More varieties may be suitable, these are just what I find to make a

good fit so far.

Once you have a fig tree planted in good soil, in a open sunny spot, with excellent air movement, with a

closed eye, an early and abundant breba crop, tree is past virus stage, well fertilized with palm

fertilizer and additional lime, bone meal and superphosphate......

you only have to keep watch for birds and squirrels, a bird net would be a good investment...

Don't mean to discourage, unfortunately (as a wise man once said) "it is, what it is"...
If you want a fruit tree that does not have anywhere near all these issues, get a mango tree, Nam Doc

Mai is an exceptional choice....LOL