First, cut off the ziplock side of the plastic baggie (In this case I'm using a quart size bag for this size of airlayer).

Next cut off the bottom seam from the bag.

What you end up with is a plastic tube.

I've chosen this branch to become my airlayer. I'm going to remove a ring of bark toward the base of the branch (far right in the photo). As a rule, use the diameter of the branch size to approximate the width of the bark you will remove. The airlayer will set roots just above the ring so try to remove this piece just under a node. In this case, it doesn't matter because the nodes are close together and I can remove the ring from inbetween the nodes.

Make two parallel cuts around the entire branch and then connect those cuts with a line in the middle.


Using the tip of your knife or even your fingernail, it is pretty easy to peel away the bark from inbetween the end cuts.

This photo shows you how it looks once the entire ring is removed.

Next, I pull the plastic bag tube over my forearm and gather up the small branches and leaves in my hand. This way, it's quite easy to thread the plastic sleeve over the leaves and down to the rooting location.


Take a piece of twine or string and secure the sleeve just below the ring of bark that was removed. Make sure that the end of the sleeve is entirely air tight. The reason being, if there is even a small opening at either end of the sleeve, moisture will escape from the rooting medium and the root ball could dry out.


Next, fill the sleeve with moist (not soaking wet)potting soil of your choice. Shake the sleeve so that some of the folded pockets fill with soil. Then leave enough plastic at the end so that you can secure this with string just like the bottom end.



Wrapping the finished product with aluminum foil will help reflect the sun and keep your airlayer cool.


Depending on the fig variety and the conditions of the process, most airlayers will show roots in about 4-6 weeks(some sooner). Here is a photo of what to expect when you see roots forming inside the plastic sleeve. This is the time when the airlayer is ready to be removed from the mother tree and placed in it's own pot.

Regards

This is an excellant presentation.

Peg

SWEET!!

I've only tried air layering once last year. I left the zip lock part of the baggie on and I cut down the 2 sides. I'm then able to open the bag flat, place the bag around a large limb and zip it closed. I then can wrap one end, fill and close the other end as you show.

I also read to leave about 1/8" uncut on the branch so a connection to the mother tree exists to feed the branch while roots develop. Obviously with your success, not as necessary a step with figs. :-)

Sue

Thanks for the air layer education. I am in the process of air layering some Zumwalt Fig Plants for my friends on this forum. One of those air layers failed because I cut into the hard wood and a stiff wind broke the air layer off. After reading your post I decided to redo my existing air layers and the rooting on all those plants was significant after 2 1/2 weeks. I know it is late in the season to start airlayer but I did about 6 additional today on various fig plants.

Quite frankly I was surprised that you girdled the mother tree before you secured the air layer. You can't argue with your results, they simply are amazing.

Thanks again!

Vinnie

Paully:
I've never tried airlayering without girdling the branch but I have heard that they root just as well(wonder if it takes longer?) I'm impressed by your results. Since reading your suggestion, I started two more airlayers without removing the cambium.
Thank you so much. Yes, I also support my airlayers with bamboo sticks so that they don't break with the wind. I just didn't include a photo of it.

Vinnie:
It is not late at all to start more airlayers at this time.
I know that girdling the branch can weaken it. Especially on younger branches. However, I do use sticks to support the weaker ones. Paully has a good point in that you really don't have to remove any bark to get these things to root. Girdling the branch has always worked fast for me so I never bothered doing it another way.

I've tried it. Girdling does help the limb produce roots faster. I use a vegetable peeler and only partially girdle the branch. This minimizes the risk of the limb breaking.

Sue,

Great tip on the leaving the zipper on... it is one of those "gee, I wonder why I didn't think of that" type ideas.

The inner layers of the limb bring energy from the roots to limb. The layers of the limb that are removed during girdling transfer energy from the leaves to the roots. The energy that is being transferred down the limb builds up at the girdle and is expressed as roots.

In the past, I was discouraged in the past from rooting late in the season. As I am seeing more and more how trees respond to late season root-work (as opposed to the beginning of the next season), I am becoming more and more convinced that late season is the time for air-layering.

The theory is: if after the layer is removed from the parent the roots can be kept warm (above 55F) while the top is asleep, the child will continue to develop roots during the winter months. The child will then be established before breaking dormancy and will have a head start on the next season. Since the tree is in its late season decline, shock issues are minimized.

As Leon pointed out, if you use your regular potting mix to air-layer, the layer is ready to pot with minimal fuss to the root area. Once potted the container can be placed on a heat mat (or out in the sun in Houston) until the weather warms up. This should especially useful on larger layers where you might not get enough root growth to initially support the top.

~james

Like you've said, I have had to produce some last minute fig trees for friends and was able to root some better airlayers late in the season.

I first learned how to airlayer figs by reading Everett Jannes article some years ago (I've attached the link). I used to use moist sphagnum moss as illustrated but I experienced problems with the moss. It can dry out real fast if there is the slightest pinhole in the plastic cover. It can only support a limited root ball. That's why the article advises a plastic tent for a week. It gives the airlayer some extended time to grow more roots under a humid environment.

However, I found that by using soil in place of the moss and leaving the airlayer attached to the mother tree a little longer for more root development, a potted tree is created. I almost never have to cover the plants with a plastic tent. Instead, I leave them in the shade for awhile and wean them gradually into some partial sun. The airlayer has already been conditioned to the sun having been attached to the mother tree, so this doesn't take too long.

Leon - Very good info on usage of top soil.

Paully

Stay Well,
Anthony

Great tutorial and photos! It really helps to see things like that and you had the steps done so clearly.

Thanks to you and everyone who added information about this topic,

Noss

Today I unwrapped the foil and looked, even though I felt it much too soon to expect anything. I found nice, big, thick roots venturing out against the plastic. They are definitely there.

I learned one thing: When placing the bag next time I will put the moss or potting soil on the tree side of the wound on the branch. I tried to center the wound in the moss and now I have roots that when planted will be pointed upward.
Ox