Wrap them in damp(wrung out) Paper towel or sheet newspaper. Wrap around each cutting adding the next cutting as you go until you get a bundle.Store on zip top type freezer bag(they breathe less than the regular ones).Doubling the bag is even better(frost free refrigerators can draw out a lot of moisture). Some clean them in Antibacterial Dawn dish liquid and then soak in a 10% bleach solution before they store them. Some wait & do it when starting the cuttings. I'm not sure which is best. Check them from time to time to be sure the wrap is damp, so the cuttings don't dry out. Hope this helps. Tim

Myself and others advise cleaning the cuttings before storing them and again before rooting them. As suggested by fatnsassytexan, I first scrub the cuttings with a toothbrush and anti-bac dish soap, rinse them under tap water, and then spray or dip them in 10% (1 part plain Chlorox bleach and 9 parts tap water)bleach solution. I allow the cuttings to dry after the bleach dip. I do not rinse them under water after bleaching.
I have successfully rooted cuttings up to a year or more stored in the refrigerator this way but the longer you store cuttings, the more difficult it becomes to root them.
I highly recommend wrapping the cuttings in damp newspaper 3-4 ply thick. The ink in newspaper appears to retard fungal and bacterial growth on the cuttings. I have never stored cuttings in bags of damp sphagnum moss but the idea has crossed my mind. Newspaper is much cheaper though.
I check my cuttings once every week or two. If I see condensation developing on the cutting(s), I just rewrap a little tighter with the same newspaper.
Woody cuttings are more resistent to rot. Greener cuttings can dry out easy or develope rot despite great care. If you see decay developing on one or both ends of the cutting, prune off the decay and re-wash, re-bleach the cutting(s), and start the whole process over.
If you notice decay developing throughout the entire cutting, toss it. It could spread to your other cuttings despite meticulous care.

Hi Leon, thanks for clearing that up. I was thinking that would be the ultimate way(cleaning before & after), but wasn't sure if that was overkill or not. That's what is so great about these forums---you learn something new almost every day. Tim

Great advice Leon.

Nothing beats the convenience of storing cuttings in baggies. However, cuttings can also be stored very successfully and for long periods of time if they are buried in moist sand......the all purpose kind sold at Lowe's or Home Depot. Moist sand is naturally anti-microbial (acidic) and does an excellent job of keeping cuttings hydrated. I have used small plastic shoe boxes to a large sized ice chest for a container to store cuttings in sand. The container can be stored in any cool location that is not directly heated by the sun or any other device.

Dan

Hi Dan:
That's also good advice, especially if you have alot of cuttings to store, limited fridge space, or a wife serving you papers for all the above! LOL
I'm curious to know how damp you keep the sand and do you stratify the cuttings parallel to the container or at an angle?

What is the optimum length for a cutting and where should the top and bottom be cut in relation to the nodes?

This is my first attempt and several of my cuttings have buds on the end, is this OK?

thanks,

Rob

Leon,

You're right.......sometimes you just need a lot of storage space when you have access to a downed tree or wind damaged branches. The good thing about sand is that it very difficult for it hold too much water........there is just no organic material in it to act as a sponge. I just poke some holes in the bottom of the plastic sand bag and run a hose inside to saturate the contents with moisture.....then let it sit until it completely drains. I drill a few holes in the bottom of some plastic shoe boxes them bury the cuttings inside. Similar cuttings can be tied together with some plastic tape and the variety name written on the tape for ID. I place my cuttings down horizontally and parallel with the box.

There are some "storage" procedures where cuttings are placed vertically and upside side with only the bottom end of the cutting poking out above the sand......supposedly this will increase the cutting's rooting success rate. I have not tried that method as I already have a very high success rate with the method that I am using.

However, "rooting in sand" has been my method of last resort before I got a good handle on mold and rot. Whenever I had a reoccurring problem with mold, I would root it at an angle (only the tip showing) in moist sand. Often where a cutting was struggling in other rooting medium, it would successfully root in moist sand.

recoil,

An eight to ten inch cutting is a typical size. Try to have a couple of nodes below what will be the soil line in your rooting cup and at least one node above. The top should be cut just above (~1/4 inch) a node (keep the bud tip if present on the twig), and the bottom should be cut just below a node. Good luck and if you are like many of us...you will find that turning sticks into fig trees can be very addictive. If you encounter any problems or have further questions...let us know. The only dumb question is the one that is not asked.........

Dan

Have them sanitized, scrubbed, wrapped in 3-4 layers of damp newspaper and tied in bundles. The damp bundles are in a plastic bag in my refrigerator. There is condensation inside the bag, is that OK or too wet?

Some condensation on the interior surface of the bag is normal......you just don't want to see puddles of water inside. You might want to check on them in a week.....but they should be fine.

Dan

Interesting discussion.

I've long felt it that figs die back in my climate. I gave up on "fig houses" a long time ago due to rodents.

Tried other ways of keeping the wood -- a cooler/refrigerator didn't work -- rot problems.

Last year, I thought, well, bury them under a deep mulch layer. Well, the ONE cutting the voles didn't completely destroy DID sprout and grow this season.

This year, I actually dug a trench about 16 inches deep (below the frost line), put the cuttings in, and buried them, then covered over with woodchips and leaves. I hope that this will keep them below the vole line as well. I don't think they'll rot, its sandy, somewhat acidic soil where evergreens used to grow until they were cut down this summer.