After growing figs for years in Staten island, NY and the last few years in Cape May County, New Jersey, it is my opinion that duration of severe cold events, the varieties grown, and how established the plants are determine how they will fare in winter. My plants usually fared better than those that people had wrapped for the winter, Young figs are much less hardy than mature plants, I have not used wiltpruf on my figs.

Palmfan: I would have to agree with you just about completely, except to say that the variety and age of the plant (how much time it has survived at THAT location), supercede duration of severe cold events. I say this only because I know of a small number of specific Figs that have survived the past 40 years or so (that I'm aware of), In zones 6b and 7a and 7b, outdoors, inground, completely in the open and exposed, and not a bud has been Winterkilled, no matter how severe the Winter. So it's time spent at a specific location, and genetics, in my opinion--strictly because of what I've witnessed. And although I have numerous clones of these Figs, naturally, I didn't expect them to survive the first few Winters of their lives under severe weather conditions, without protection of some kind. It is my opinion that a Fig (and a large number of other plants)--if it is to live, naturally must endure the conditions in which it is placed, even if that requires adaptation over a period of time to those conditions. Like you, the hardiest Figs I know of have been in place many years. Two that I know of that lose not a single bud, no matter how cold the Winter has been in my area in the past 40 years, have been outdoors, inground, exposed, for over 100 years, each. And neither is ever pruned nor fertilized nor limed; and each gives thousands of Figs each season. I used Wilt-Pruf for the first time this year, and it didn't take me long to figure out what I posted above. Spraying a 1" diameter branch with a 3" spray means two thirds is lost to the air. The "sponge on a stick" is the perfect applicator, much better than a paint-brush I tried. I am not wrapping any of my Figs this Winter, just applying Wilt-Pruf--it's do or die. I'll certainly give my opinion of the experiment, in the Spring. Also I have left some of the same cultivars I Wilt-Prufed, without it, as a control--to see what happens to them vs. those Wilt-Prufed.
I have pruned them all to about 3 feet, and mulched them all at least 10-12 inches--that is the protection I have given them. They are also situated on the south side of a 100 foot long fence, which gives them protection from the North wind. All are at least 3 years old, though none are really old (like the 100-year-old Figs I mentioned). I have seen a few signs that indicate this will NOT be a severe Winter in my area. Everyone else, here, predicts it will. We'll see what happens.

Plants cannot adapt to the temperature conditions of a given site regardless of how long they have existed there. The measure of a plant's cold-hardiness is pre-determined by genetics and cannot be altered, except that cultural conditions have variable impact (time of year, prior exposure to chill, degree of hydration, etc.).

Young trees are nearly entirely dynamic mass and will exhibit a lesser degree of hardiness than their older counter-parts, especially rootage. Roots die incrementally and the lowest temperature they can tolerate varies with the age of rootage. In an imaginary tree, the young and nearly microscopic hair-roots might succumb to freeze damage at actual root temperatures of 25* F., or even higher. The slightly older, suberized but not fully lignified roots might endure to lows of around 20*, while the oldest and well-lignified roots are able to withstand the lowest temperatures of all root types.

Evidence to support the above can often be seen in plants that have suffered cold injury and are very slow to leaf out in spring. Freezing of tissues destroys stored photosynthate, reducing the trees energy reserves; and if the cold injury is severe enough to affect all but the hardiest rootage, the tree begins a new growth cycle in the spring much like a cutting w/o rootage. The tree calls on energy reserves to establish a root framework that is capable of moving water to the canopy before leaf-out occurs.

The above also offers explanation of why young trees with unlignified rootage are more tender than established trees.

Al

Speaking of winterizing - my fig trees are enclosed in wire cages four feet tall, the same of which are filled with leaves. I also have mulched each tree with six inches of rotted horse manure. Today I was out checking my trees, and lo and behold about six of them had terminal buds which were opening. These buds were taller than the wire cage, thus not covered by the leaves. Obviously they will freeze before this cold season is over. Is this premature opening being caused by the mulch and leaf covering, or is it strictly a result of the warmer temps we have had for the past week (many days in the upper forties, some in the fifties)? I know there are several of you out there in the general DC area, are you having a similar experience?.....Elder

Soil temperatures are the driving force behind early leaf-out (Note that containerized trees always leaf out too early unless the containers are buried, because the soil warms earlier.). Secondary, but still contributors, are day-length and air temperature. The latter two cannot trump soil temperatures, but it's normal for several consecutive days of soil temperatures in the high 40s or low 50s to stimulate top growth.

Al

Here'e My Metehod:

I HAVE 8 FIG TREES GROWING IN MY BACK YARD.

1- Cut back each fig tree to 5 feet high.
2- Mulch the base rooting system with one foot of mulch to prevent freezing of the roots. I make my mulch by composting dry tree leaves, grass clippings and kitchen scraps throughout the summer months.
3- Tie up and tighten each of the branches to form a closed umbrella.
4- Wrap roofing tar paper around each fig tree leaving an openning on top.
5- Wrap and tie roping around each fig tree and secure to a inground peg, i.e; a 2 foot stick banged into the ground next to each fig tree.
6- Completely fill to the top, through the top openning - in each fig tree, with dry tree leaves.
7- Top off each fig tree with used heavy weight paper to finalized the insulation.
8- Covering the remaining top openning with tar paper and secure with roping.

I have been doing this for the last 5 years with great success.

Your fellow fig lover ----- Tony From Staten Island, NY