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| I will be potting up my tomato seedlings this weekend in their permanent homes (5 gallon buckets). I think I have solved past drainage issues, but I really want to try better maintenance this time around. Is there any one mulch that is best? How far up do I remove the bottom leaves? How far up do I remove suckers and is there a difference between suckers and branches? Should I start regular spraying with Bt immediately, or wait for the hornworms to arrive and then start?
Knock on wood, my seedlings are the best I have had so far and I want to do right by them. Thanks for any and all hints. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by yumtomatoes 10a/FLA (My Page) on Tue, Sep 13, 11 at 18:12
| "Is there any one mulch that is best?" Pine BARK mulch. I remove all but the top 2-3 branches of leaves. I do this about a day before I am going to pot up to let the wounds heal to help reduce the chance of infection. Then I spray with daconil before I pot up and let it dry and then pot up.
Yes, there is a difference between suckers and branches. Suckers are the branches that form between where an existing branch and the stem meet. See the link below for an illustration. As for pruning, most say not to prune determinate plants - all you will do is reduce the yield of the determinate plants. If you are staking rather than caging your indeterminate plants grown in containers, pruning helps to stabilize the plant so it is less likely to tip over in the wind and it is less work because you have less branches to tie to the stakes. However, you reduce yield and can reduce the foliage to the point that you risk sun scald. I have heard that pruning suckers reduces yield but increases the size of tomatoes and allows the tomatoes to mature earlier, but I don't know if that is based on data or not. The illustration in the link below says to remove all suckers below the first flower cluster. You should remove them when they are no more than 2-4 inches. I don't know the answer to that question. Maybe someone else can answer. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Sucker
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- Posted by yumtomatoes 10a/FLA (My Page) on Tue, Sep 13, 11 at 18:24
| You should definitely prophylactically spray for fungal diseases using chlorothalonil (daconil, ortho max garden disease control). |
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| You should definitely prophylactically spray for fungal diseases using chlorothalonil (daconil, ortho max garden disease control). I disagree, read this post thoroughly.... Tom |
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- Posted by yumtomatoes 10a/FLA (My Page) on Tue, Sep 13, 11 at 20:06
| Well, I started reading and reading and reading and then got tired, lol! So what are you trying to say tom? Is it that chlorothalonil doesn't prevent late blight or is it that it somehow makes things worse than not spraying? *confused* |
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- Posted by amberroses 9b-Pinellas Co. (My Page) on Tue, Sep 13, 11 at 20:20
| Side question: Do we get late blight here? |
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| The byproducts of chlorothalonil are highly carcenogenic.... |
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| I do prefer organic solutions. How about the effectiveness of milk spray as a fungicide and the "Cornell Formula" of oil, baking soda and H2O as a preventative for blight? |
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- Posted by amberroses 9b-Pinellas Co. (My Page) on Wed, Sep 14, 11 at 13:43
| The best thing is to keep good air circulation around the plants and watch and remove any leaves that show signs of early blight or bacterial speck. If I see my plants getting these problems I start to spray some Serenade. This is just the way I do it though. You have to be careful about spraying oil when the temps are high because it will burn the plant. |
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| RE: WEEKLY Late Blight Updates & Counties Infected Posted by mulio (My Page) on Mon, Aug 3, 09 at 20:23 ...How do you feel about a chemical which specifically works by acting to deplete glutathione - a protective substance which is already found to be depleted in many patients with cancer, Alzheimer's, AIDS, Parkinson's and other neurodegenerative diseases? While a healthy person might not notice the effects of depletion, what health effects do you think chronic or even subchronic exposures would have on such individuals with already reduced glutathione levels? During its manufacture, Chlorothalonil is contaminated with the carcinogen hexachlorobenzene. This would be one of its "inert ingredients". This may not be accounted for in carcinogenic studies which, in order to be scientific, would only consider the effects of pure chlorothalnil itself.* Chlorothalonil's breakdown product is 30x more acutely toxic than chlorothalonil itself and is also more mobile and persistent in soil.**.... Posted by mulio (My Page) on Hexachlorobenzene HCB has not been sold in the United States (as an end-product) since its last registered use as a pesticide was voluntarily canceled in 1984. It can be found in chlorothalonil but is considered an "inert ingredient" with no "end-use" and therefore does not have to be disclosed. It also would not be picked up in on health studies of chlorothalonil as only the active ingredients are tested to separate out biases. It is considered one of the top POP's out in the environment and in our food. � Hexachlorobenzene can remain in the environment for a long time. "Produce grown in contaminated soil should not be eaten. " that's ironic So far, it looks like Serenade is the best choice right now, but it sure isn't cheap :-( Tom |
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- Posted by carolb_w_fl 9/10 coastal (My Page) on Thu, Sep 15, 11 at 10:21
| FWIW, more pH neutral hay or straw mulch are recommended for veggies. Woody mulches are acidic & can encourage fungi - not to mention tying up soil nitrogen as they break down. UF recommends using black plastic. I've had the best results using hay a couple of inches thick - it seems to really help prevent soil-borne diseases. & make sure when planting, to remove all lower leaves that touch the soil surface. I don't ever spray any of those products mentioned above, just lots of seaweed extract & maybe some Bt or soap now & then. There is a Tomatoes forum here - you might want to check it out. There is also an Organic Gardening forum, where you can search using the keyword 'tomato' for advice on disease treatments & prevention. Forgive me, but I don't see the point in covering homegrown veggies w/ synthetic chemicals - might as well buy produce from the store... |
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| Thanks everyone. I figured I would start here for more specific Florida knowledge, but I will head over to the tomato and organic forums, too! |
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- Posted by amberroses 9b-Pinellas Co. (My Page) on Fri, Sep 16, 11 at 13:15
| I have my first fruit set on my tomatoes! My Olive Hill plant has a tiny baby growing on it. I hope nothing bad happens to it and it's joined my many brothers and sisters. |
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