By the way, benjis are notorious for this. If there is (sometimes even a very slight) change in light, temperature, or watering, they will drop leaves. This is a survival mechanism from their native habitat, they drop leaves to save water during the dry season. So when you bring it in next fall, you may want to consider pruning it moderately at that time to aid in acclimation, and make extra sure that you let up on the watering if this happens, let it dry out some. I've found that if i prune some leaves from ficus plants when i move them that they don't drop additional leaves.

The one in the living room is a multi branched tree that has been trained around each other. It is in a 12-14" pot and is about 4.5ft high. Any suggestions?
BTW, it is still growing, new leaves consistent.

I kept it outside and I pruned it.
Impossible to believe: after a long time with no leaves, it started again to have leaves.
Then in autumn I put it inside and it started again loosing its leaves. At last I trashed it and I bought a new ficus.

Rule of the game:
1) keep the ficus indoor, even in summer. If you put it outdoor the ficus likes it very much and it becomes much
better. But then, when you put it indoor in winter, this is a too high stress for it. Keep it always indoor
2) be regular in giving water to it. Regularity is the rule for most of the plants (except bonsai). A bit more in summer, less in winter, but with regularity.

This is what I learnt (or I think to).

Help!

Ficus have alot of roots and plants that have been in thier pots for some time can get snug . If it dries out extensively , you need to soak the whole pot, because all water you give it will drain right out of the pot . The rootball and soil need to soak in order to expand .
If you can't move it water and it will drain quickly into tray due to air pockets created by the roots pulling all moisture from the soil . Wait until the plant drinks what's in the tray and give it water again. Continue until it stops drinking .
I have seen so many Ficus loose all there leaves due to severe dry soil conditions.

It may appear a little wilted and even perk up after you give it a good dose of water , but next day I have seen half the leaves turn yellow green and a slight shake and all fall to the floor. Then a few days more , other leaves follow. If this happens never repot , until the tree leaves out again and going strong .

A good rule of thumb about watering with most all container plants with Free drainage is "It is not How much you give a plant when you water, water freely and plenty.
It is how often you do this that can give a plant root rot.
Let me also add this does not include plants that are taken from a 6 inch pot and put into a 10 inch pot . A 6inch root ball will have a very hard time drying out in all that excessive soil, roots structure will deteriorate.


Ficus are fast growers , that is why they are cheap.
I think people get discouraged by Ficus because they have let thier plants go dry before and they did not defoliate.
But when a ficus gets really dry or this condition builds over time and you give it the normal amount of water and maybe less because it is now soaking your rug or floor due to run off , and next day you look at your once georgeous tree and half of it is yellow green and worse yet when you touch it several of them fall to the floor , it can be devastating ..
But this is still better than having Root rot. That is much harder to salvage on all plants.

Those of you who like PALMS , there are several varieties that are easy , Do not Repot them !!! The cheaper faster growing palms are more tempramental like Areca , Majesty and if you are buying from Home Depot , make sure you check really well for mites!
The more expensive palms like
Chamaedorea erupens/siefritzii and Kentia's are very easy , Don't repot them!!! If you want a better looking container , place the grow pot inside the container!
Palms like a very snug fit in there pots and get very fussy when disturbed, But when repot time comes you can do this with no fussing . Only step up 2 inches in size from previous grow pot, use a free draining container , Buy the light potting soil mix , buy a bag of sand ! SAND!
Palms when in containers appreciate a heavy presence on thier root systems and if you mix the sand with the Wetted potting soil, you will get a combination that will serve this purpose.
If the palm is really root bound and formed , you can gently tease away some fleshy roots , they have plenty and won't mind If you are "Gentle" . Pack the SAND/SOIL mixture as you go tapping the sides so it settle's nice and snug and make sure new soil line on top matches that of old . Water in generously and tell it you love it 's Sequoia Spirit!
Check regularly for spider mites , if the plant expieriences no stresses this should be less of a hassle ,But can happen and does , but Rates of mite intrusion is higher when some folks get busy and forget to water their palms, ect ect , and hence suseptability to mites.
If mites get out of control on a palm it can seriously damage the look of a palm . Mites are busy and present a good while before you start seeing webbing on fronds from across the room. It is much easier to be tenacious with a small population and rid the plant of it , then wait till a large one has created a universe for itself on your Palm.

Hope this helps ! It works !
L.

Mine is about 15 years old, standing in only it's second potting for the past 10 years. It lives outdoors throughout the year. Can't bring it in due to my cats.

Will be re potting again in the next month or so.

I moved mine outdoors in March, and it did well. I'm thinking of leaving it outside, but may have to move its location if it grows too big. Right now, it's too close to the house.

Al

I am reluctant to dump them, at home in the UK I have several six-eight foot high ficus which are probably about 20 years old so I know they can recover from apparent death.

The apparently dead ones are all quite young - about a foot high. I've had them two years or so. I wonder whether I should cut them back and if so how far? And should I feed and if so what? Repotting at this stage is I think not a good idea. I am planning to put them on another light windowsill and see what happens. I can't leave them where they are. I don't know if she under or overwatered or if it got too cold for them. The light levels should have been sufficient.

Any help would be gratefully received.