Is it a lot of work? And is it worth the effort?

Any advice?

2. If it's a sense of achievement you seek!

3. The special strip lighting, heating and irrigation is all available - and can be fun - we grew lettuces in the kitchen - but really, it might be more cost-effective to take up knitting? - Tim

I guess that answers my question. I have virtually no spare time to begin with. I suppose I'll have to be satisfied with supermarket tomatos this winter. (sigh.)

I haven't bother with lights - as there is south exposure & big windows in their winter space - but would love to try to prevent the drying out in some way. Maybe a plastic framework inside my chilly sunroom would get better results for humidity - and also reduce stress. Good luck!

-DR

The key is to pick the right type of plants. You need self pollinating tomatoes and determinate (or bush type) tomatoes are usually easier to keep under control.

Most people will start off with a grape sized tomato (smaller than a cherry tomato) like "Santa" or "Jelly Bean".

A 250 Watt Metal Halide light with a CleanAce bulb is plenty big enough to grow one or two tomatoes with lettuce plants in the outer light ring. A 1000 Watt growlight like Marlboroman uses will grow about 10 or 12 tomato plants and should be elevated about six or eight feet above the plants.

You can grow either in hydroponics or soil in containers. Personally, I like the Stratum Method for growing tomatoes with soil. Five gallon buckets will work if you put the drain holes in properly. If you are buying planters, it is more helpful to use square ones to fit indoors better: 15" X 15" is just about right.

If you are a gardener and you try it, I bet you will work it out.

Cindy

Indoors, you'll need to "flick" the stem that the blossom is attached to, or touch an electric toothbrush to it to cause the stem and flower to vibrate.

How many tomato plants will grow under one 60 watt grow light? I have 7 small seedlings, so how many grow lights would I need?

I have been reading up on pruning tomatoes, and they say to pull off the first flowers until the plant gets to be about a foot high. It will be better to distribute the roots thoroughly before allowing the flowers to use up the energy for tomatoes at that time. Also they say to:

* Pluck off the top branches growing above the flowers, and pluck regularly.

* Make sure you are fertilizing it for the right things because they need potassium, not nitrogen, so don't use manure, but compost types.

* Pick off suckers, or small shoots that sprout between a branch and the stem. The shoots should grow on the side of the plant, not in between in the corners of each branch.

* They say to cut off the branches that don't have any flowers because they are dead weight and will take away from having bigger fruit. ** I would think there must be more details about this somewhere because how do you know which set of stems is never going to produce flowers? ** If anyone knows, please let me know, but so far that is what I have got.

* They also say to prune to about 4 to 6 branches for each plant and no more.

My winter warming plan for the plants is put a clear garbage bag over the top of the tomato, put the planter into a cardboard box stuffed with ruffled paper, put hot water in an empty 2 liter soda plastic bottle, slip about 4 or more of them alongside of the tomato plant and cover them with the hanging clear plastic bag on the tomato plant. I know they need an opening for carbon monoxide "Carbon dioxide?) exchange, but it doesn't have to be a large one.

Do you think this is effective for winter heat in a very cold closed in room?

Tell me what you think, but so far the little sprouts are doing fine. Going on day 3 and I can't wait.

I have had great success with leafy crops in a simple, homemade flood and drain hydro set-up. It consists of a 2' window box, a straight through connector, some aquarium air-line tubing, a small air pump, and a valve. The only tools needed are a drill and some silicone.

(I listed a link with the plans, but the site has been banned from here. I'd be happy to explain the contraption if you ask, or do a search for the windowsill wonder.)

This method allows you to incorporate nutrients into the media and/or the water (just make sure it drains VERY well: lava rocks and perlite work nicely). I'm happier with it than other hydro units i've built; mostly because its easy to construct and i don't have to hassle so much with EC/Ph/nutrient mixing. The greens go crazy, and i'll be using it for those Tiny Tom seeds when they finally arrive. You can also fit four of them under one 48" shoplight, though results are better keeping it to two units per light.

Remember, if you use less than HID lighting, the smaller the plant, the better.

What is a good light to consider to grow tomatoes indoors, and possibly use to also help start seedlings that will go outdoors?

I searched on Amazon and found Hydrofarm JSV2 2-Foot Jump Start T5 Grow Light System, along with other lights. How many watts should I be looking for? Is Metal Halide a must ,or could I use fluorescent if they are growing lights? How much should I expect to pay for something that is strong enough? Anyone have a specific light they recommend?

Go for it!

I read 30 watts per sq ft. In 100 sq ft that is 3000 watts for 12 hours a day is 36 KW/h per day, or about 1080 per month, about $162 in electricity.

What can you yield per sq ft? Any thoughts?

Going to plant a diva cuke and a grape tomato in the corner windows (2 windows face south and 2 face west in the corner of the house).

Also want to eventual get fig and citrus trees for this little area....

I started my seeds earlier this week, and waiting for sprouting. I had them on the radiator, but think it got a bit too hot, hope they aren't killed.....don't think the soil temp went past 100-110 at the very most, so they should survive that as it is within normal range - or so I hope!

did 2 kinds of grape toms, black krim, and some other smaller fruited one.

Hoping to move these into larger and larger containers, and maybe have them be outside when the weather turns hot, but wouldn't mind some harvesting during the early spring either.

I have 3 shop lights, one cool one hot bulb each, all on the same shelf, but may have to divide as more plants get into bigger pots...

waiting on pepers eggplants and herbs as well as the toms to sprout...

Maybe for christmas :)

Best looking plants I've ever done from seed, now that I know to plant deeper with each repotting.....and have so much supplemental lighting....